I pretty much did this to convert it to full manual control https://atracom.blob.core.windows.ne.../2015_3_32.pdf

Now there are so many mods and stuff you can do to this that I thought it might be better to ask what I should do to achieve the most brutal shifts possible out of this without any shift kits?
It's behind a boosted 5.3 so I would much prefer it to survive like this for now as long as possible so want to do everything I can to achieve that.

I'm aware there are many expensive parts I should buy in the future but that is then, in the future, at some point. Now is now and this thing is pure budget for now.
I seem to have no troubles holding gears once they are on but the shifts are a bit slippery in my mind, especially at 1+ bar (14+ psi) of boost.

Accumulator delete? Drilling bigger wholes in the plate for faster shifts? What else?

 

Just the title is probably making the experts here cringe and shy away from providing assistance. "Brutal" shifts are not only hard on the transmission internals, but can even break u-joints, driveshafts and differentials.
If you really wanted "the most brutal shifts possible", you could leave out check ***** and disable the accumulators in your trans, but something would literally split in half within a week.
No, what you really want are smooth but quick shifts that leave no time on the track, but also don't break parts. The 4L80E experts here can give you guidance for that.

 

A. we all know what bar is.
B. brutal shifts are not good. It makes it sound like you're driving uncle-daddy's ElCamino with a 305 and th350 that you want to "chirp the tires" off of every stoplight. It's ignorant
C. Are you going to take the transmission apart at all, or just drop the valve body?
D. Did you block reverse boost pressure like the article says, or did you just buy 2 crimp connectors and call yourself a builder?
E. what is the current condition of the trans? I'm going to assume that based on your post scheme this is a junkyard unit, probably out of an express van, that you've done nothing to?

 

Yes it is good, I much prefer it that way, dont need/want any granny shifting, though the tires are rather sticky even on streets so would require effort to get them to chirp in normal driving, doubtful that is gonna happen.
It was apart for inspection before, nothing wrong with it physically, could be by now but will see later.
You clearly got some issues there but Ill bite anyway: it clearly says to plug the passage in the guide, so yes, it is plugged on the valvebody, not the pump.

 

MaroonMonsta gave you good information and you should follow it.
Going along with MaroonMonsterLS1 said... you should follow what I type below.

I would very strongly recommend blocking off the reverse-boost circuit here.
Install a new boost-valve and sleeve assembly and modify the land for reverse-boost.

You will most likely break the low-reverse servo piston/ do damage to components for the low-reverse band otherwise!

The plug in the case/ valve-body worm tracks is for dual-feeding the direct clutch assembly at all times... not only in reverse.
The Reverse feed circuit going to the direct drum is NOT THE SAME as the reverse-boost circuit.

Follow the directions completely or suffer parts breakage with over 300 PSI of line pressure in the reverse gear range.
Install the plug in the pump passage for the reverse-boost circuit as well as in the case passage for the reverse-feed circuit.

180 PSI is good for 1,000HP... There is absolutely no reason to allow line pressure to go higher.
Pressure higher than 200 PSI is known to break the transmission case in the area of the center-support in second gear.

 

Thank you.

 

Ok...so if you're going to argue with guys that have built loads of 4l80e's for every application between a stock box van and 1200+hp transbrake...and say "yes it is good" to have the most brutal shift...then why are you on this forum?
If you already know it all and know what's best...why do you need any help?

If you didn't plug the hole in the pump...then you didn't block reverse boost. Again, acting like you know it all isn't gonna get you very far. It just shows you have no idea how the hydraulics work or how to modify them.

If you want the hardest shifts POSSIBLE...here's how to do it.
Remove the pressure regulator spring and replace it with a piece of conduit. Don't let the Pressure regulator valve move. Block it inboard. And do not block reverse boost...you want to make sure it shifts hard into reverse too!
Block all 3 accumulators. You can block the 1-2 accumulator by using a setscrew in the case. And the 2-3 & 3-4 can be blocked with a plate or with setscrews in the housing.
Remove all the checkballs in the case
Make sure to use "grooved" or "waffle" frictions everywhere.

Then after you do all that, drive everywhere at WOT to make sure it shifts the hardest.

P.s. if it breaks the case...be sure to share pictures

 

OP,
Good luck. Please share pics of the carnage. The cova thing has left me bored on a daily basis ......

 

I just cant bring myself to comment. other than to say good luck keeping drivetrain parts together. Post #2 sums it up.

 

Lol, damn its a tough crowd at ls1tech.

 

Keeping it real!

 

i read the title of the thread and was like OH NOOOO the intermediate sprag

 

If you do manage to get your transmission to shift as "brutally as possible", you'll be back here after your first test drive to ask how to do things properly. Either because you broke parts or because you've suddenly realized parts are going break in short order based on how the car drives setup like that.

 

Laughing My *****-F-ing *** Off!

The Best Laugh I have had in a long time!!!

Some of this did not make perfect sense... but point well taken!

Grady THANK YOU! I needed this today!
REALLY! Thank You! I love it!

 

On a serious note...

Do not try anything to make the 2nd gear shift firmer.
The intermediate sprag is robust compared to both of the earlier parts used (16-Element sprag or one-way roller clutch) but still can be damaged on the 1-2 shift.
Should your engine ever require a torque converter with 5,000 or more RPM of stall speed... Then other considerations should be made.

Most builders delete 3rd and 4th accumulator function, when dual-feeding the direct clutch assembly.
Most of the time there is an accumulator type of effect on the 2-3 shift from dual-feeding the direct clutch in it self.
This is a good thing in most situations. Do not change this.

There are of course ways to eliminate this effect... However I do not recommend it unless the vehicle is for track use only.
I will not be explaining the modifications (even though extremely simple) So do not ask.

I personally use the forth accumulator.
However I make changes to the accumulator valve-train (it does next to nothing in the stock configuration) and to the 4th accumulator...
These changes are to make the 3-4 shift firmer than NOT using a 4th accumulator.

Note: this is not in order to produce a brutal 3-4 shift...
the 3-4 shift most of the time is quite soft (no gear multiplication effect here) and can be made firmer with no ill-effects.
Yes doing this incorrectly can cause damage... but I do not expect most of you will do so accidentally.

On that note; and lastly... Be very careful of line pressure in this unit!
Stock engines will get by just fine with only 160Psi. (yes actually lower... but do not do this unless trying to squeeze out a minuscule bit of extra HP).

 

I wanna see the OP do these mods !!!! and then post pics afterwards....we have not had a good trainwreck lately

 

Yeah, that title definitely brought it out, but I think (certainly hope) the OP got the memo.
When I first saw that title, I imagined some of you pulling your (remaining) hair out. It was not a good image.
Maybe we should be kind now.

 

I was kind enough to make him a list of how to do it if he really wanted to...
And don't Jinx my hair like that!! I'm blessed with a full head and don't need that bad magic floating around trying to take it away hahaha

 

Damn! I knew it was the faults of all you guys!

My poor hair is starting to just nearly thin out...

Alright guys... everybody post your addresses; so i know where to send all the bills for "Hair Club for Men"!
I am not gonna let my hair go!!!

 

Lol amazing. This escalated just as quickly as I thought it would.