So I rebuilt a 4l60e. Bought a master overhaul kit from phoenix and everything seemed to go smooth.
I put it back in the car, and broke the pump cause the converter wasnt seated all the way. Took it out, replaced the vane rotor and inspected everything else. Looked good to me. Clearances were within spec with clutch packs and end play. This is a stock rebuild on a 2004 blazer. Put it back in and jumped for joy when the pump was working. Then, wait for it...........No reverse. And in drive, it barely moved. Took it back out and when I removed the valve body, the tcc solenoid was broke in half. But that should not have been my problem. Upon further inspection, when I took the drum out of the case, the very bottom clutch disc of the 3-4 clutch pack had bent teeth. I dont think that disc ever seated all the way. My clearence was in spec, but on the tight side. So my question is, could that have been the cause of no reverse AND almost no forward movement ? I've got the whole thing apart and do not want to install and remove again. I have went grey in 2 weeks time with this tranny. Any help would be appreciated

 

The 3-4 clutch pack is not used unless the transmission has shifted up into 3rd gear or 4th gear.
A damaged 3-4 clutch pack should not be your issue.

In the future purchase a transmission line-pressure gauge; and take pressure readings for the different gears at idle and at 1,500 RPM.
Now that the transmission is apart it is too late.

You can Air-check your clutch packs and band with low pressure shop-air... research air testing the 4L60E.
If the transmission will not operate in any of the gear selector positions...
-You most likely have a major internal leak.
-Your pump is not producing oil pressure.
-Or your torque-converter is inoperable.

I really can only guess with out more information.
Let us know what parts were replaced and how you rebuilt the unit... also hopefully you cleaned out the ATF cooler and lines... and installed a new torque-converter.
It is quite often that a new DIY builder to make mistakes resulting in the transmission not operating.
There are just simply too many things that can go wrong in a transmission.

Look closely at all your teflon sealing rings and research air-checking the clutch packs.
Let us know what you find.

 

Ok. I have assembled a dozen engines. I figured the tranny should be a breeze. I should have known when so many damn little parts came in the rebuild kit. I'm not tapping out yet. I will look into air testing and report back. Thank you

 

Yeah... A production automobile engine does not compare.
There are far fewer parts involved, as you found out.

You are most welcome.
Fortunately the 4L60E is not a difficult transmission by comparison.
There are far worse model transmissions to learn on.

Books/ downloads can be a life-saver for a DIY transmission builder... especially a first timer!
Take a look at the "ATSG 4L60E Manual" and the "ATSG 4L60E Update Hand-Book".
The update book was just re-updated this year... it was long overdue.
I would download these ASAP.

ATSG Manual

ATSG Update Hand-Book

Have fun and good luck!

 

linkee.....no workee

 

They are both working for me right now...

If your web-browser is not set up for basic SSL encryption (HTTPS vs HTTP) then you will not be able to view the web-pages.

Sorry, I run my entire network through multiple private tunnels and encryption systems, and will not connect to a non SSL page.

 

I'm surprised anything was salvageable in the pump after the rotor broke. Was the converter damaged? If you used the converter over it would have been filled with chunks and particles of metal from the broken pump. The bent teeth on the clutch disk means you didn't have the clutch housing seated properly. How did the solenoid break? From what I have read you should take it somewhere and have it fixed unless you just want to mess with it.

 

Thank You for the links! I will be popping my cherry with one of these next year. I can hardly wait.