Well I decided to take the plunge and see if I could rebuild a 4l60e. Always been intimidated by automatics. First thing I fabbed up a transmission holder for the engine stand. Picked up a used core 60e to rebuild so I can still drive the 56 it will go in. The guy I bought it from said 3rd and 4th were gone. He had it in a 2004 Silverado. This was his 2nd transmission, and now is on his third. So the tear down



The case numbers next to the trans mount (5TAD) say it was born a 2005 4X4 tranny, but it now has been converted to 2 wheel drive. It also has a deep pan without a drain plug; I thought truck pans in this era had drain plugs.

The Transmission is really clean. The fluid is dark and burnt, but no metal glitter. The filter didn’t look stopped up. It was super hard to wiggle it out of that case seal it was pushed into.



I forgot to take pictures of the 2nd servo. It was a stock truck 2-4 servo. All of the seals fit really loose around their bores, and the pin seemed loose in its bore also. Couldn’t get any of the seals off without breaking them so I could check the pin clearance. It was .145, loose. The band was really dark but had life left in it.

The valve body is 4216995 which seems to be the right era for the case. The EPC solenoid is the newer style. I pulled the TCC valve; it was .441 so it’s never been repaired. I can’t make up my mind if I want to repair this valve body or just buy one that’s been refurbished.



The 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators look to be stock.

 

Thanks for posting good pictures. Keep going.

 

Before you start to remove the gear-train (Pump to Output-Shaft)...

Measure the Input-shaft and Output-shaft End-Play (Movement)...

Search for a YouTube Video on End-Play for the 4L60E.

It will be pretty BAD (LOOSE) when stock on the disassembly...
However it provides a starting point for a "Floating Gear-Train" Transmission that is Poor to begin with.

 

Thanks for the add! Going to be fun.

Thanks, I will.

I did get the input shaft (.029). before hand. But I missed the boat on the output, I never ran across to look at it, definitely will check into you tube

 

A shot of the input shaft. I noticed it has the reluctor for the ISS, although this trans isn’t a full blown ISS model. I need to keep this in mind if I need to switch pumps because the sealing rings are located in slightly different area correct? Anything else I need to look out for?



The reverse input drum is shot. Can’t believe the band looked as good as it did. The clutches were in good shape.


Input drum, isn’t it a no-no to put the ends of the snap ring under the lugs?

 

The 3-4 clutch pack is shot. Steels have hot spots all over them. I air checked the drum and it seemed to work ok. I need to make a spring compressor today so I can finish taking the drum apart.



That snap ring is something else. I thought I could walk it off, but no way, I stuck those snap ring pliers in there trying to get it off 78 times, could not get if off. Then on the 79th try, voila came right off.



The front planets look real good. No side to side wobble on the gears. Pins aren’t discolored.




The rear planet looks equally good and no gear wobble, really tight unit. I checked the captured bearing on both planets also.

Don’t know what these clutches are, but they look to be in good shape. Yeah I'm not exactly an expert here

 

I thought I finally found a problem why this transmission was pulled when I got to the sun gear because the snap ring looked like it popped out of a groove. But further research says this is normal. Did I tell you I have never done this before.


That’s as far as I got. This is going to take time to get done, like a few months. I still need to keep at finishing the 56 overall, but I needed a break from the tedious details of buffing and installing all that stainless, why did I buy a belair model..LOL.

 

Because it will look beautiful when you are done. This was the CHROME look era. Good luck with it.
This is your thread; give us updates about the Belair when you want; we won't mind.

 

Finally am done with the stainless. All that is left is the little triangle windows behind the rear doors and the stainless around the back glass. I’m going to farm that out.


Here is a close up of the ISS plug in the pump housing.


Shot of the pump. I checked the clearance of the pump rotor and slide. The rotor had .002 with a straight edge laid across the pump. But the smallest feeler gauge I had was .0015 and it would not fit between the slide and the straight edge, although you can see wear on the face of the slide so it was moving back and forth. When I finished dissembling the pump, there was no o-ring between the slide and pump ring.


The wear in this pic looks worse than it is. If you closed your eyes and tried real hard you could detect some wear with your finger nail. Should I replace it? Is this wear because of the missing o-ring?


The slide still has a lot of bluing left


Boost valve. It measured out at .472. I would like to keep this size. I think a .490 would be overkill for my build (less than 400). I would rather go after leaks for better pressure.


The pump has 70053 stamped next to the TCC apply valve. Does that mean anything to you?


I pressed the input shaft out and used green slip permatex to glue it back in. Is there a way to leak check the slip fit without building the drum, or does it need built?


Reaction shaft needs to be replaced. Got some scoring where the bushing rides.


. Hub is worn out. This and the brass ring had the most wear in the whole tranny.


I found this crack once the case was cleaned. I don’t think it was leaking fluid; the area around it was to clean. The crack doesn’t go through to the back side; it appears to be confined to just the web part. I’m thinking it got dropped sometime in its life.

 

Ok so I ordered a kit from Dana, and a converter while I was at it. While I am waiting I have a reman VB I can get ready to put in it. The TCC valve has been updated with the Sonnax regulator/ isolator keeping the PWM function. I want to switch to the on/off apply. I need that longer pressure limiter spring. Google hasn’t been my friend. I can’t locate one by itself. All I see it available in is in kits. Anybody know where to get one?

 

only place I know to get the longer spring is in the sonnax HP4L60E-01 kit

 

All that needs to be done is to block the TCC valve-train from moving.

Find something that will replace the spring, or fit inside the spring...
One of the guys here recently used a piece of brake line tubing for this.
Cut it to a length where there is no movement, but that everything fits with the retainer installed.

 

Got my kit from Dana. So the fun begins. It wouldn’t be bad except for a couple of snap rings. I have a couple of hours playing with them. I’m trying to get the input / output shafts endplay set. On the output end everything up to front planetary snap ring is installed, except for the low reverse clutches. With this setup, when I push up on the shaft I get .045 thou. Loose? I found the Sonnax shims 77406-10 shims. How many?




On the input side I partially built the input drum. I didn’t install the 3/4 clutch pack, also left out the reverse input drum. So with the partial input drum and the pump and gasket installed I get .022 on the dial indicator. The selective washer is a 68. I can’t find a chart of the sizes anywhere. What washer do I need to tighten things up?

Got a couple questions on the pump. But that’s another time

 

Your .045" end play for your output shaft is OK.

Regarding your total endplay, .022" isnt bad either as is even on the "tighter" side. Which isnt a bad thing specially at .022".

Regarding your question on the different sizes of selective washers: here is your info

#67 - .074-078"
#68 - .080-.084"
#69 - .087-.091"
#70 - .094-.098"
#71 - .100-.104"
#72 - .107-.111"
#73 - .113-.118"
#74 - .120-.124"

What is your question regarding your pump??

Also what manual are you following? I would recommend downloading the free PDF of the ATRA manual to follow. To me, its the best 4L60E manual to follow.

 

When you are building the pump and need to check the slides clearance with a straight edge laid across the pump, do you remove the slides oring. With it in place I have no clearance. If I take it out I have clearance.

 

I am going to refer you to the ATRA manual for this and it covers your question.

 

No O ring or steel seal

Just the slide on its own
The O ring is to provide "spring" to the metal seal and you will have no clearance, or negative clearance (as measured by a machinist edge and feeler gauges)

but it will be just right to still provide a good seal and free movement when the pump is installed together

 

Um...
0.045" Rear section End-Play?

Some more thinking needs to be done here regarding the Total End-Play as the Front section will require a good 0.006" or so more than the Rear section.
To be fair... the Floating Gear-Train design of the 4L60E is far from ideal...
But the End-Play should be done better than what has been achieved thus far.

 

I agree and plan to tighten both ends up. This was just a mock up to practice. My first build. UPS dropped off most of the hard parts I had ordered. I need some advice on the reaction shaft. I had the newer style with the thick lipped bearing. I just received a new replacement reaction shaft that is the early style. But it wont work with late style planets will it? I read a couple sonnax articles on it, just double checking, thought I could get away with just swapping bearings.

 

Post some images of the Planet, Bearing, and the Hub/ Shaft that you have...
Lets see what is compatible, as there are multiple versions of these parts...
and they should be used as a set.