Hi everyone,

I just recieved my parts to rebuild the 2000 4l80e core I had to swap into my 2011 Camaro. I haven't started assembling the rear geartrain, so I have been able to measure all clutch clearances besides the intermediates so far. If anyone wants to look over the clearances I achieved, along with the order of stacking I used, it would be greatly appreciated to receive some input.


Direct: .052" dry clearance

-wave

-.090 steel

-.077 steel

-friction

-.077 steel

-friction

-.077 steel

-friction

-.077 steel

-friction

-.077 steel

-friction


Forward: .058" dry clearance

-wave

-.090 steel

-friction

​​​​​​​-.077 steel

-friction

​​​​​​​-.077 steel

-friction

​​​​​​​-.077 steel

-friction

​​​​​​​-.077 steel

-friction


4th clutch: .025" dry clearance (3 frictions and steels)

Overrun: .051" dry clearance (4 frictions and steels)

Intermediate: what should I be aiming for? (4 clutch and steel)


As for my intended use, this will be a mostly street driven vehicle, I will be running extreme automatic's transbrake RMVB with engine braking and lockup (fixed line pressure), and car weighs around 4000lbs with me in it. As for internal modifications, I will be removing the forward and direct drum internal lip seals and the 2nd from top center support ring and drilling the direct to dual feed (valvebody plugs case hole required). As for pump mods, where should I drill and how large to help aid converter drainback? Will be running a 4600 stall. Other than that, everything else is going to be stock for the most part.


Last question I have, I would like to remove the pressed on forward drum seal, but have struggled and can't get it out. Its pretty tore up now, so leaving it in is no longer an option. Any tips/tools used to remove this seal?

 

i usually leave it in. once a drive range is selected its full of oil pretty quick. anyways i'd put a thick th400 wave in and try and get to .035 ish to keep from banging into drive

DIY removal is with a sharp chisel. i have also scalloped out a round punch enough to make a woodworking looking scoop chisel. personally I just put it in the lathe and cut it out that way nowadays

IM stack, 40 thou with the late thin wavy. usually a single .100" steel on the bottom of the stack will get ya there

 

Alright, sounds good to me. Any areas on the forward drum I should be careful to not marr up when going at that seal with a chisel, no access to a lathe unfortunately. Also, did you say to aim for .035" on the forward drum? I could swap one of the .077 with a .090 and that would get me real close, to right around .045" clearance.

 

I also have the older style 4th clutch beefier sprag in my core, but I ordered the newer, weaker style sprag. The sprag in my core seems to have no wear, should i just re-run that sprag?

 

the overrun one way roller clutch types are specific to their drum and plant drive plate assemblies, so yes you will have to put the old one back in

 

Allright, will do. Are my 4th clutch clearances too tight, haven't seen much info on acceptable clearances for this clutch pack.

 

leave the seal in the fwd. No reason to take it out

if using a 34 element sprag...run a 3 clutch intermediate and a wave...clearance around .025

if using waves...use the thick th400 waves.
.010 per friction for clearance on the direct
getting the fwd down to .030 ish is good

 

On another note, which port on the 80e gives line pressure? Is it the small bolt to the left of the shift linkage shaft, more towards the front of the trans?

 

its the 1/8 npt plug above and rearward of the manual shift shaft