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The debate thickens: Pinged Dana who built my kit. I didn't realize the TransGo CS7 clutch springs are a bit stronger so they clutch pack shouldn't open due to check ball centrifuge / leaking pressure. That said, I really do like the idea of having positive pressure to push the apply and pressure plates apart when the clutch pack is not engaged. What is best? I get the impression he's not tried both release springs and the CS7 kit... He said he'd never had issue removing the springs and putting the stronger caged (piston?) springs in 25 years of building.
No debate is necessary...
People do things in different ways.
The ONLY Units that I have tested... resulting in a 3-4 Clutch failure with Lift/ Load Springs...
all had excessive Clutch Clearance, along with improper 2-3 Up-Shift Timing.
The Lift/ Load Springs are not an issue...
Build the 3-4 Clutch as the Guys here have recommended.
Then the 2-4 Band clearance...
and 2-3 Shift Timing can all be set up properly.
Installing bushings in the reaction shaft... It looks like there are some fluid ports on the output shaft that need clearance. How do I validate my bushing is in right spot and not blocking those? / How deep do I install these new bushings?
I presume this outputshaft is toast? I can feel the pitting with my finger. tried to polish out and helped however can still slightly feel the pitting. Is on surface where reaction shaft rides.
Also setting bushings in reaction shaft has been a PITA. I wreched one bushing at small end of shaft. Do they sell these with new bushings already set... short of paying sonnax big $$ for theirs?
pitting on reaction shaft surface. Wont completely polish out... very slight drag on finger when spinning in hand. Gouge / knick on this surface, also some longitudinal banding (front to back of shaft). Not sure if can ground nick down and polish banding out?
I don’t know if you can use that shaft or not, but if you need one, I have plenty. I also have some reaction shafts too. I have a real nice one out of a late model with the big thrust bearing. I can put new bushings in for you. I’ll test fit them and sometimes I gotta chuck them in my lathe and skim the bushing or polish the shaft. I always make sure it spins freely with no binding. I also have input shafts. I end up with lots of spare parts when it’s all upgraded to sonnax pieces.
I don’t know if you can use that shaft or not, but if you need one, I have plenty. I also have some reaction shafts too. I have a real nice one out of a late model with the big thrust bearing. I can put new bushings in for you. I’ll test fit them and sometimes I gotta chuck them in my lathe and skim the bushing or polish the shaft. I always make sure it spins freely with no binding. I also have input shafts. I end up with lots of spare parts when it’s all upgraded to sonnax pieces.
Getting ready to start assembling the transmission. Most all my sub assemblies minus the valve body have been rebuilt. I'm giving the case a REALLY good lookover before I begin putting the assemblies in it. Few question on the case:
Question 1: Truck 5KCD case versus trailblazer 5TDD case - I have two cases. One is from a trailblazer the other from a 4x4 truck. People seem to say they always like to use the 4x4 cases. What's the difference? I'd think they'd all be the same now days and wouldn't a trailblazer also be 4x4?
Question 2: Heli Coil size for pan bolts - some genius must have used a impact to put pan back on at one point. Three are damaged, one won't even thread, and several more have compromised threads. I'd like to heli coil the ones that are worst. Not sure what size or where to buy. I've never done that before. Or maybe I just use the other case at this point.
Question 3: Burnt looking worm track - back of case has dark coloration where it appears gasket for separator plate bonded or even melted into the metal. Can this be cleaned up short of a surface plain at machine shop?
Question 4: Case cleanup - can I do this at home carefully with a pressure washer? Additionally, case has a REALLY crappy spray paint job on it. I'd like to clean that off as best I can. In the least douse it in brake cleaner. Or would it be best just to have a shop clean up with their parts washer?
Question 5: Case Flash - is it worth or even a good idea to clean up some of the case flash, from manufacturing process? I would at least like to clean up dipstick tube area as I noticed it tore up seals.
Question 6: Band Anchor (under valve body) - I assume this is supposed to be in case at a slight angle. How can I best check this? It doesn't appear to wobble in bore at all.
Question 7: Pump mating surface - almost looks like rust pitting. Would this cause an issue? Can see in picture below. It's on outside radius. Otherwise is very stubborn dirt.
Question 8: Any additional checks I might do on the case? Any additional suggested checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
Pretty sure the 4x4 case thing was for the earlier 1 piece cases. They had a "K" cast into them.
i used aircraft stripper to get the crappy rebuild spray bomb off mine. Apply and cover with plastic. Doing in a heated area and time really help here. After blast with pressure washer,it may take a few applications to get everything. Don't reapply stripper when case is wet. Also shake the container well before using!
I stone the Vb and case. I originally got one of those knife sharpening stones and used the finer side when I did my first 700 many moons ago.
Getting ready to start assembling the transmission. Most all my sub assemblies minus the valve body have been rebuilt. I'm giving the case a REALLY good lookover before I begin putting the assemblies in it. Few question on the case:
Question 1: Truck 5KCD case versus trailblazer 5TDD case - I have two cases. One is from a trailblazer the other from a 4x4 truck. People seem to say they always like to use the 4x4 cases. What's the difference? I'd think they'd all be the same now days and wouldn't a trailblazer also be 4x4? Case Strength is really not a big issue with 60e
Question 2: Heli Coil size for pan bolts - some genius must have used a impact to put pan back on at one point. Three are damaged, one won't even thread, and several more have compromised threads. I'd like to heli coil the ones that are worst. Not sure what size or where to buy. I've never done that before. Or maybe I just use the other case at this point. m8x1.25
Question 3: Burnt looking worm track - back of case has dark coloration where it appears gasket for separator plate bonded or even melted into the metal. Can this be cleaned up short of a surface plain at machine shop? A flat stone should be a standard tool for any transmisison builder. A light stone pass will be adequate
Question 4: Case cleanup - can I do this at home carefully with a pressure washer? Additionally, case has a REALLY crappy spray paint job on it. I'd like to clean that off as best I can. In the least douse it in brake cleaner. Or would it be best just to have a shop clean up with their parts washer? pressure washer is just fine. Parts washer is nice but a pressure washer will do the job.
Question 5: Case Flash - is it worth or even a good idea to clean up some of the case flash, from manufacturing process? I would at least like to clean up dipstick tube area as I noticed it tore up seals. casting flash is not a big deal. Clean it up if you think it will cut seals. Otherwise I vote it isn't worth the time or effort.
Question 6: Band Anchor (under valve body) - I assume this is supposed to be in case at a slight angle. How can I best check this? It doesn't appear to wobble in bore at all. wobble is the most important check. If it fits the case tight, it should be OK
Question 7: Pump mating surface - almost looks like rust pitting. Would this cause an issue? Can see in picture below. It's on outside radius. Otherwise is very stubborn dirt. it's an aluminum case with an aluminum pump. So...it isn't rust pitting. It's just stubborn dirt. Some gentle scotch brite will clean it up if you feel the need to.
Question 8: Any additional checks I might do on the case? Any additional suggested checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! make sure the manual valve selector shaft has a new seal and the bore is not total ****. There is often alot of grime in the dipstick hole and the electrical connector hole. Clean it out well. Make sure the low roller support case lugs are not beat to hell. The anti-clunk spring should have protected them and they are usually OK. but I've seen them beat up and that's no good. Also check to make sure any of the small brass lube orifice plugs (in the bottom of the 4th accumulator for example) are clean. A blast with compressed air usually does the trick.
the shaft gets mushroomed on the inside from the nut. File the edge of the shaft that the shift linkage cam butts up against. Then the shaft will slide out then pop the seal out with a screwdriver.
the manual shafts always have a burr or raised edge from the shoulder the rooster comb sits against.
A small file to knock down the edges, then a gentle tappy tap tap from the inside to drive it out.
