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if he is using the bolt on sonnax plate...take everything I said and it's the same but instead of snap ring...say "if the bolt on plate doesn't sit flush and you have to compress the springs slightly to bolt the plate on"
just a simple check to see if this stuff fits is better than messing with the calipers in this instance.
The springs push the apply plate down with the apply fingers. The pressure (top) plate can't move any further than the snap ring, so consider it fixed in place.
pick a spring that will push the apply plate away
if they dont touch...or don't fit...omit them It won't be the end of the world to run without load springs. They're a nice addition imo but not critical to the process here
@matermarkThe specs for my clutch pack are HERE. It isn't a modified drum, however, it is a larger 3/4 clutch pack and smaller pressure plate. Frank has spec'ed setup in his shop for this, however, I cannot find the springs he uses.
Long story short, I'm going to leave it w/o the springs... Unless somebody knows of place that sells a longer spring to swap in to the retainers. They're 3/16" compression springs. 1 5/8" length should do it but cannot find much with those specs.
I can find some of the Hillman springs Frank spec'd in limited supply from various online sites but they're like $7+ per spring. I've been to three home depot stores, two ace stores, and one Lowes. No luck. Dana who built my kit says he's never had issues in over 30 years with 3/4 clutch burnup / centrifuge as spec'd. He said the stronger piston return springs from Transgo should more than overcome any leak by. However, I really like idea of something separating the apply plate as well to avoid clutches from riding on each other otherwise. Probably a minor detail... I see it's a debate as to if they are any help anyways.
if he is using the bolt on sonnax plate...take everything I said and it's the same but instead of snap ring...say "if the bolt on plate doesn't sit flush and you have to compress the springs slightly to bolt the plate on"
just a simple check to see if this stuff fits is better than messing with the calipers in this instance.
The springs push the apply plate down with the apply fingers. The pressure (top) plate can't move any further than the snap ring, so consider it fixed in place.
pick a spring that will push the apply plate away
if they dont touch...or don't fit...omit them It won't be the end of the world to run without load springs. They're a nice addition imo but not critical to the process here
He's using a .225" plate and a .128" plate with a 1/16th snap ring... from Dana... I'd post everything between the plates but there are like 2 different thicknesses of frictions and at least a couple different steels... best to look at the link posted above.
Below is a picture of a BRAND NEW SPRING in my caliper set at 1.124"
As is they would just rattle around in the clutch housing and never touch so far as I can tell. Frank recommended a spring from Hillman then swapping them out. However, I cannot find the Hillman Spring (or other equivalent for any less than $7/spring). Major suppliers have discontinued the part.
Hillman Compression Spring 1-5/8" x 3/16" LINKED HERE Home Depot, ACE, Lowes... None of them carry it anymore.
Eh I can scarily remember what is in this thread haha... I find myself searching it with text search to recall. Thankfully, I've completed most everything discussed in the thread so far... and now the most important part of the build is done. Case is PAINTED!
1. Several coats of aircraft paint stripper which got some of the NASTY old paint off.
2. Used a dremel with scotchbright disks and cleaned the rest off.
3. I sprayed EVERYHINHG with dawn dish soap solution.
3. Power washed (carefully at a distance) with HOT water from my hot water tank.
4. Used air compressor to blow out all the passages and dry off the case.
5. Cleaned with grease and wax remover.
6 Masked and painted with Dupli color Engine paint
have you tried ordering those springs directly from the Hillman
website? sounds like they sell them in packs of 5 but you have to register to view cost & order.
have you tried ordering those springs directly from the Hillman
website? sounds like they sell them in packs of 5 but you have to register to view cost & order.
Oh dang, I will have to try that out. I didn't see an order button anywhere. Thanks!
I posted some springs from McMaster that would do the job
your picture doesn't look like new springs to me, but what do I know
also...I'm very surprised at the kit dana sent you. Wouldn't be my first choice by a long shot, but I hope it works out. Dana is a good dude
....I think your looking into these springs way to much. But respect your attention to detail. Install them, and send it. Those springs dont amount to much, but like MaroonMonster stated they are good addition.
I think I would have just pressed Sonnax about the springs they include with their Smart-Tech housing, they clearly look much longer than the stock springs... Sonnax return springs for the Smart-Tech drum...
I assume less is better to a certain extent. Mine is built up to that point. It will spin in either direction but won't free spin like that. Update, I'm watching beginning of video and notice he didn't soak the low reverse clutches. I soaked all mine for 15 minutes. Curious if that would cause it to behave like it is.
I checked all the bushings for fitment and drag before assembling. I also spun everything w/o output shaft installed and spun freely. However, once installed it will only spin by hand (not free spin like that).
I also checked the low reverse clutch for tolerance (visually). It seemed to have enough play as demonstrated
QUESTION 2: How difficult should it be to put the output shaft in? I got mine in. However, I had to tap it in with a rubber mallet. NO way could I have wiggled it in by hand. I started the process thinking maybe the splines were bad and pulled it out. They were all good so I put it back in and tapped it in with the mallet. It slowly but surely went in and at no point did I feel any binding. I was worried about damaging bushings so during this process I had the reaction, sun gear and shell removed. I installed them after along with the snap ring.
Last edited by weinerschizel; Jan 8, 2022 at 10:50 PM.
Ok, when you say spin. Are you talking just the lower pinion? With the yellow snap ring in then spinning it? Or when the entire barrel filled? The more you put into it, the harder it is to spin (at least one way)
Ok, when you say spin. Are you talking just the lower pinion? With the yellow snap ring in then spinning it? Or when the entire barrel filled? The more you put into it, the harder it is to spin (at least one way)
Should I be able to spin the output shaft and it keep spinning on it's own? Almost like a top spins on it's own for a while (like in the performabuilt video above??) Mine pretty much stops after I take my hand off of it. I did also soak my clutches and he didn't.
Last edited by weinerschizel; Jan 8, 2022 at 11:01 PM.
Although you shouldnt have to "pound" the output shaft in to place....sometimes getting the splines to line up right to slid up can be tedious, but iv never had an issue. Unless something isnt right. But the way that spun, it seemed good to me. Need to check your end play now though....
Although you shouldnt have to "pound" the output shaft in to place....sometimes getting the splines to line up right to slid up can be tedious, but iv never had an issue. Unless something isnt right. But the way that spun, it seemed good to me. Need to check your end play now though....
are the splines designed to only slide in one way? Maybe I put it the wrong way? Did they make different size rear reactions? Maybe a different casting from different year?
I definitely had to pound it in with the rubber mallot. At no point could I do it by hand, only slightly when I started. Hope I didn't break anything. I made sure only rear planet was in when I put it in... front pieces splined with out any issue at all.
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