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I'm onto rebuilding the valve body now. I have two valve bodies bought a spare incase the one from my donor transmission was no good... My donor valve body is labeled "05" assuming was built in 2005. I'm currently trying tearing it down. I got all the valves and servos out minus one. The 4-3 valve.
I cannot figure out why it won't come out. It appears to be a once piece valve despite what I see in my ATSG guide and videos online.
It's not seized up in the bore. Simply won't come out. I don't see any pins to lock it in or anything. Really confused as to why it won't come out.
There is alot of stuff that sonnax and others sell that is just not needed.
I'll agree there's no way it's gonna hurt (unless you're not pressing it right...and I'm trying to speak to the average reader here on the forum that has a higher likelyhood of damaging from an incorrect press)
After seeing lots of these units over the years, I guess that just is not a failure point I pay too much attention to because it's a pretty low % and the few instances that I have seen breakage even with the sleeve...I presume the level of abuse would have caused damage no matter the instance, so why bother.
If you like using it, or if anybody else does. That's just fine. I won't tell ya that it's wrong.
But I dont think it's necessarily a big value add
^^^^Maroon, what are your failure points you pay the most attention to on this family, and how do you counteract or prevent those from occurring?Do you upgrade reaction shafts to Sonnax, or do you do any of your own heat treating/quenching, or other hardening treatments [like Dana?] Thanks.
I got the valve out. Wow what a PITA. The valve retainer was stuck. The valve was actually two pieces and a spring. I had to soak in pb blaster, the could see it was two pieces a spring and a cap. Drilled out the cap though royal PITA. I need a new cap now though. Where do you get those things?
I think this is what you need. Sonnax 77964-08K 3-4 Relay O-Ring End Plug Kit.
I see these come with an o-ring... 77964-08K. Sonnax has a second type 77754-39. It doesn't have the o-ring. However, says it's for a different valve bore. Aren't all plugs the same size on the valve body? Just curious... I'll probably just get the o-ring style.
Next question, I don't have a vacuum pump test fixture to test the valve body but want to do the same thing only with diluted transition fluid and or mineral spirits. Where are the areas on the valve body that can be vacuum tested. I will put in fluid and see if it leaks out.
Go to Sonnax's web site under the 4L60e transmissions. Download the instructions for their Sure Cure Kit. In the last few pages are instructions on how to test your valve body.
These instructions HERE? I see inspection tips. Don't see any leak tests though? Where can a person put a vacuum (or place fluid) and test the valve body for leaks?
AWESOME. That's exactly what I needed. I'm going to get a piece of plexiglass, tap a fitting into it to attach my mighty vac, hand pump for pulling vacuum on brake lines. It has a vacuum gauge right on it Should be cheap and easy.
Regarding disassembling and assembling a VB, I always brake clean the sh*t out of it, then I soak it in wD40 and let soak over night. Then its so much easier to disassemble once all the parts are lubed up. Then you can really clean the bare VB, then I soak it again in WD40 and assemble.
Regarding disassembling and assembling a VB, I always brake clean the sh*t out of it, then I soak it in wD40 and let soak over night. Then its so much easier to disassemble once all the parts are lubed up. Then you can really clean the bare VB, then I soak it again in WD40 and assemble.
Oh wow, that would have worked awesome... I sprayed mine down with mineral spirits. Then it came apart. I rebuilt it as it was with original parts. I will test and install shift kit as I go on.
WD-40 would have worked awesome though. I didn't even think about that.
I'm fiddling around here. I tried to build a vacuum test fixture. No luck yet. Hard to find that thick of plexiglass locally w/o spending $100 for big sheet. I bought a thinner piece but not sure if it's sufficient. Built a setup and tried the mighty vac... Not sure why you would say a mighty vac wouldn't work.
Anyways, I'm tinkering around with mineral spirits. I poured it in the test areas. Some obviously leaked out and I have issues in a few areas. However, the others are VERY SLOWLY going down if any at all. It's been in the valve body for a good 40 minutes now. I see some people test that way, and dilute with ATF... However, I just used straight mineral spirits to perform an even more robust test. I know isn't really measurable other than visually. However, I'm loosing very little fluid.... Not sure how confident I can be with a test like that?
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Should be cheap and easy. 
