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I am not sure the sticker is on the case anymore... :/ It's a 2005 from a 4wd C/K Truck. I was able to decode that much before I lost the sticker.
It's also engraved into the machined surface on the underside, between the pan gasket rail and the end of the case where the extension bolts on... Trans code engraving
I'm having a bleeping hard time with these snap rings that hold the clutch springs down. I watch tutorials and people pull them right off with snap ring plyers.
I've managed to break two of the snap rings now so a couple questions.
1 - what am I doing wrong that's making this so hard. Here's what I'm doing HERE.
2- where can I buy new clutch spring snap rings?
Here's my snap ring plyers. They are really intended for snap rings with the little hole. I need something that does 90degree bend. I see they sell them at Harbor Freight but not sure which ones best. They run as much as almost $100 for a set of snap ring plyers. At this point, I've take everything apart, and maybe best if I just get new snap rings. I forced mine off with screwdrivers and stretched them out.
I'm having a bleeping hard time with these snap rings that hold the clutch springs down. I watch tutorials and people pull them right off with snap ring plyers.
I've managed to break two of the snap rings now so a couple questions.
1 - what am I doing wrong that's making this so hard. Here's what I'm doing HERE.
2- where can I buy new clutch spring snap rings?
Here's my snap ring plyers. They are really intended for snap rings with the little hole. I need something that does 90degree bend. I see they sell them at Harbor Freight but not sure which ones best. They run as much as almost $100 for a set of snap ring plyers. At this point, I've take everything apart, and maybe best if I just get new snap rings. I forced mine off with screwdrivers and stretched them out.
You need this type snap ring pliers, they have grooves like you find INSIDE normal or longnose pliers, but on the outside...
An SFI Flex-Plate is always a good cheap investment.
I'm ordering another batch of parts. Finishing up clutch spring, and snap ring order. Also want to snag a flex plate. Bit confused, I thought SFI was a brand name but is an industry standard?
I see a large spread in price for SFI plates ranging from $85 on up to $300. I make no more than 450 HP right now but want to make sure I get something good enough for say up to 550 HP.
Rock Auto Carries this one HERE or Summit is basically name your price. Getting ready to place an order through Rock Auto right now, so not sure if I should snag that one and call it good or not...
SFI is actually a group/ organization (SEMA Foundation Inc.) that sanctions safety standards for Drag-Racing/ the NHRA.
There is a 1/2" thick rule-book with all the different standards and rules that pertain to SFI certifications.
Any part with an SFI Certification will meet a certain specification for a Class or E.T./ Top-Speed in Drag-Racing.
As you race in faster and faster Classes...
More and more of the major components of the Vehicle will have SFI Certs.
There are more SFI Certified Components on my Funny-Car, than non-SFI Parts.
One appears machined, the other welded together from parts. Obviously the Circle D is much stronger, but I'm not sure how to get one that will last, but not throw away $$ on too much tech so to speak.
No plans to race but performance is important as I've bumped everything up in my vehicle. The new engine should be making another 150hp / torque than old one. May to bump that up another 50 or so with heads and exhaust someday. It's all in a 2001 Z71 Tahoe. I'd say no more ever than 550 HP / 550 LbFt
The transmission gets a lot of power pushed through it when I'm climbing on the trail. May also get some larger tires which increases that a bit further. Just don't wan the flex plate to fly apart haha.
Finished building the reverse input drum. Now I'm building the input drum. Having some troubles with 3/4 return spring.
I tried to install the 7-CS Transgo springs in my 3/4 return spring cage. They are stiffer and break the tangs off the retainer. Can I just break off the rest of the tangs on the retainer and put it in? I'm worried the broken tangs might fall off in the transmission (or otherwise be required but don't think so).
Finished building the reverse input drum. Now I'm building the input drum. Having some troubles with 3/4 return spring.
I tried to install the 7-CS Transgo springs in my 3/4 return spring cage. They are stiffer and break the tangs off the retainer. Can I just break off the rest of the tangs on the retainer and put it in? I'm worried the broken tangs might fall off in the transmission (or otherwise be required but don't think so).
man throw those springs in the garbage and put a stock return spring in there. I’ve never had a problem using the stock one. I’ve turned one of my motors to 7800. Funny thing is I called transgo Friday. I was having an issue with one of their shift ***** they sell. The trans I was building had one in it. The guy was super nice and very knowledgeable, very talkative until he told me if I ever build a unit that turns over like 5800 (ish) rpm that the bottom piston will likely blow the seal out and I needed to buy some kit they sell. I told him that I have a turbo car that I shift at 7200 over shift, been together and beat on for about two years and never had a problem. He said well you will. Then I told him about multiple other units I had making 700+ with my trans and I’ve never had that failure and I use the blue molded pistons. Lmao. He got quiet for the rest of the conversation....awkward silence as I paused a couple times to see if he had anything to say.
I think he assumed at first I was a novice....till it was my time to speak. Anyways, throw that shot in the garage. If you do t have those locks in there, springs will be everywhere in short order. You must consider, acceleration and deceleration will make them move. Dont chance that.
Yeah I looked closer at the instructions and it said to remove the locks. The instructions were VERY poorly written. Had to read them a couple dozen times to figure out what they were speaking of.
I didn't think of centripetal acceleration. That's a good point. Also yeah pressure stack up / tolerance with the springs would work the lip seals harder. I had wondered if my air pressure test would require more pressure after installing them. I got it all assembled but was definitely a ***** kit not very good quality.
Also wondered if those stiff springs would mushroom out the edges of the retainer over time.
[QUOTE=weinerschizel;20371823]Finished building the reverse input drum. Now I'm building the input drum. Having some troubles with 3/4 return spring.
I tried to install the 7-CS Transgo springs in my 3/4 return spring cage. They are stiffer and break the tangs off the retainer. Can I just break off the rest of the tangs on the retainer and put it in? I'm worried the broken tangs might fall off in the transmission (or otherwise be required but don't think so).
I use the springs in my units and have not had any issues. I won't say if they are needed or not just that they won't cause any problems. I do not use the tangs to hold the retainers together, like you say they will break. They are a pain in the behind to install.
My kit didn't come with a Forward Clutch Apply plate or the waved plate (between overruns and forward clutches). The donor transmission I'm rebuilding seems to have burnt up some of the forward clutches and was hard on the overruns as well. Those two plates seem to have some issues too...
The apply plate has some small pitting on it. I can barely perceive the pitting with my finger but I can feel it. Not sure if that's superficial or if maybe I just sand up the plate a bit?
The waved plate has heat damage and grain in metal is inconsistent. I'm pretty sure I'll need a new one of those?
UPDATE: I looked and it was only $20 to order the forward clutch pressure and wave plates. Not worth the hassle on old parts so I just ordered new.
Pictures below:
Originally Posted by Kfxguy
I’d rather keep it simple and don’t fix what ain’t broken. I’ve tried to fix things that aren’t broken before and it bit me in the ***.
I hear ya for sure. I may leave them in, as I wrecked the spring cages from the donor transmission and I don't think I can undo the modification now Don't think I would recommend the 7CS kit to anybody else though as you are saying. It does make me a bit nervous but confident I finally got it installed right.
Last edited by weinerschizel; 08-09-2021 at 12:06 AM.
Finished building the reverse input drum. Now I'm building the input drum. Having some troubles with 3/4 return spring.
I tried to install the 7-CS Transgo springs in my 3/4 return spring cage. They are stiffer and break the tangs off the retainer. Can I just break off the rest of the tangs on the retainer and put it in? I'm worried the broken tangs might fall off in the transmission (or otherwise be required but don't think so).
I use the springs in my units and have not had any issues. I won't say if they are needed or not just that they won't cause any problems. I do not use the tangs to hold the retainers together, like you say they will break. They are a pain in the behind to install.
Yes.
The tangs are for assembly only. Makes it easier to drop the whole thing in.
You can break tangs off and just carefylly assemble and it'll be just fine
...and at one point in time, TransGo Instructions actually stated, to cut-off those locking tangs.
When I look closer they say to bend the tabs back. I need to take it apart again. Dana gave me some tips. He said to take every spring and put it's twist opposite the spring next to it... This way it will balance itself out better. That definitely WAS not in the instructions but is a bit genius. He also said the higher spring pressure requires 5 PSI in fluid pressure to overcome.
Some of the 4L60E Return-Spring Retainers have "Lips" that one end of some of the Springs (I do not remember which colors) will hold-on to (interference-fit).
So in that situation...
installing the Springs as you mentioned will have half of the Springs held on to one Retainer,
...and the other half held on to the other Retainer.
This helps to keep both Retainers and the Springs, all stay together.
I stock-piled the earlier design (THM700-R4) Return-Spring Cages/ Retainers... instead of using the 4L60E Versions.
The early parts are less flimsy/ do not bend or warp as easily/ do not break as easily...
And make for an easier arrangement of the Springs.
Those TransGo instructions used to supply different Springs for Early, Mid, or Late Design Spring-Cages...
and recommend the Early versions over the Late versions (if a person has the Early parts already).
07-29-2021, 07:17 PM
and I don't think I can undo the modification now 
Don't think I would recommend the 7CS kit to anybody else though as you are saying. It does make me a bit nervous but confident I finally got it installed right. 
