4L60E Build
are the splines designed to only slide in one way? Maybe I put it the wrong way? Did they make different size rear reactions? Maybe a different casting from different year?
I definitely had to pound it in with the rubber mallot. At no point could I do it by hand, only slightly when I started. Hope I didn't break anything. I made sure only rear planet was in when I put it in... front pieces splined with out any issue at all.
I definitely had to pound it in with the rubber mallot. At no point could I do it by hand, only slightly when I started. Hope I didn't break anything. I made sure only rear planet was in when I put it in... front pieces splined with out any issue at all.
EDIT: you know now that I think about it. They "stake" the reaction hub where the splines are so that really could be it. Your video shows it spins just fine, and as long as your end play is in line I would send it.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Arizona
Dana who sold me the kit said the resistance putting it into the rear reaction was no problem Some are like that he said... Just to double check end play as you mentioned.
One question done
thx for help.
One question done
thx for help. Ill bet the "stakes" in the hub is what the resistance was.
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Arizona
Yeah Dana has been an AWESOME help. Roger Vinci also sold me some parts for my engine build (valvetrain). He was INCREADIBLY helpful. Both were worth the money in consulting alone. I think each one spent several hours helping me personally. Another was Manton, they built my pushrods and Trevor helped me setup my 2116LSR lifters through several phone calls. Engine was SUBSTANTIALLY fewer questions though. Aside from lifters and if I'd used an off the shelf cam I could have done it pretty easily with no questions at all.
Back to the story... I'm sure you're right about the hub. I had suspected it too. When I pulled the shaft back out it looked perfect. I ran my nail across every spline and no issues at all. However, of all the parts, the one I didn't test fit it with prior to install was the hub. I tried to look in the case and see if it had issues but couldn't see very well. When I pushed it in with the rubber mallet, I made sure to hold the other side so the snap ring wasn't getting pounded to death.
Well onto putting the drums and band in. Hopefully I get time today after work.
Back to the story... I'm sure you're right about the hub. I had suspected it too. When I pulled the shaft back out it looked perfect. I ran my nail across every spline and no issues at all. However, of all the parts, the one I didn't test fit it with prior to install was the hub. I tried to look in the case and see if it had issues but couldn't see very well. When I pushed it in with the rubber mallet, I made sure to hold the other side so the snap ring wasn't getting pounded to death.
Well onto putting the drums and band in. Hopefully I get time today after work.
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 322
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From: Arizona
About ready to cry *ug* lots of swear words were said. Pressure regulator is leaking on my compressor, tool I got to pressure test with was no good, etc. Thank god I decided to do another pressure test though.
The reverse input drum holds pressure really well... I wonder a bit if too well? It doesn't bleed down as fast as videos I see online however, it has a wavy steel instead of the beveled one. Not sure if that covers the bleeder hole and makes it bleed slower. The waved steel was in my kit.
Unfortunately, the input drum leaks like a sieve. I noticed tests run on Youtube where you could hear no leaking at all. I can hear leaking from the drum when I test the ports on mine HERE
I also decided to put transmission fluid on top of drum and do test I saw on Sonnax website. It leaked really bad where input drum meets shaft. Results HERE
I think the guy on eBay sold me a bad drum?
The reverse input drum holds pressure really well... I wonder a bit if too well? It doesn't bleed down as fast as videos I see online however, it has a wavy steel instead of the beveled one. Not sure if that covers the bleeder hole and makes it bleed slower. The waved steel was in my kit.
Unfortunately, the input drum leaks like a sieve. I noticed tests run on Youtube where you could hear no leaking at all. I can hear leaking from the drum when I test the ports on mine HERE
I also decided to put transmission fluid on top of drum and do test I saw on Sonnax website. It leaked really bad where input drum meets shaft. Results HERE
I think the guy on eBay sold me a bad drum?
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From: Iowa
the input drum needs to be pressed out, cleaned up, and pressed back in with some retaining compound.
The press on these is a mess and you'll definitely notice some "chowdering" on the shaft and drum
in your video you didn't test the 3/4 hole and that will be the worst leaker.
I've seen better
I've seen worse
I don't even test them anymore. They all get pressed and resealed. Then tested after.
Be sure to support the drum properly when pressing in and out or you'll cause yourself extra headache
The press on these is a mess and you'll definitely notice some "chowdering" on the shaft and drum
in your video you didn't test the 3/4 hole and that will be the worst leaker.
I've seen better
I've seen worse
I don't even test them anymore. They all get pressed and resealed. Then tested after.
Be sure to support the drum properly when pressing in and out or you'll cause yourself extra headache
Damn it. But, glad you checked this as this would of eventually killed your 3/4 clutch and/or other components.
Pressing out and pressing in input shafts isnt a huge deal. As MaroonMonster stated, the key is to make sure the drum is properly supported and the information is out there on how to achieve this. But, one thing to look at when you get the input shaft pressed out are the walls of the drum. If they are galled up the drum is junk and it will never seal. Im going to assume this is your issue. If its not, there are measures to "dress" the input shaft to prevent galling the drum going back in with the input shaft.
Pressing out and pressing in input shafts isnt a huge deal. As MaroonMonster stated, the key is to make sure the drum is properly supported and the information is out there on how to achieve this. But, one thing to look at when you get the input shaft pressed out are the walls of the drum. If they are galled up the drum is junk and it will never seal. Im going to assume this is your issue. If its not, there are measures to "dress" the input shaft to prevent galling the drum going back in with the input shaft.
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Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 322
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From: Arizona
Went to local shop and borrowed their press... I could get the shaft out supporting the drum correctly but would have to make something to get it back in. I'm going to get some help from a fellow forum member 
Question 1: Have been looking at the Loctite for shafts... It's essentially the red Loctite? The back of the label says it's for shafts?
Question 2: Sonnax makes this input reinforcement kit. It's not expensive. Should I have this installed as well? https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3600-in...nforcement-kit
Refresher, is for a 6.0L Tahoe. Will have around 500HP if my dream list is completed. Currently 450hp tops. I use it to tow, and go overlanding, low speed high torque stuff on heavy vehicle.
Question 1: Have been looking at the Loctite for shafts... It's essentially the red Loctite? The back of the label says it's for shafts?
Question 2: Sonnax makes this input reinforcement kit. It's not expensive. Should I have this installed as well? https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3600-in...nforcement-kit
Refresher, is for a 6.0L Tahoe. Will have around 500HP if my dream list is completed. Currently 450hp tops. I use it to tow, and go overlanding, low speed high torque stuff on heavy vehicle.
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From: Poplarville, MS
Use a green sleeve retainer compound. As for the reinforcement kit some say they help, and others say they just move the weak point to another area. I have one in my transmission, but I can't say if it is doing anything.
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From: Iowa
If it doesn't break...you'll say the little sleeve is the best
if it does break...you'll say the failure point just moved
I'm not a big believer in it...I think most amateurs are more liable to cause damage instead of good when they press it incorrectly.
My cam only 99 Silverado cracked the drum and I didn’t have a sleeve. So…
1) every higher than stock stress build I do gets one.
2) I’ve never seen a failure there ever again after using a sleeve
3) makes me sleep better at night putting one. All the torque goes though a not very thick part of splined aluminum. There’s a reason the sonnax drum and the 4l79 drum come with those sleeves.
1) every higher than stock stress build I do gets one.
2) I’ve never seen a failure there ever again after using a sleeve
3) makes me sleep better at night putting one. All the torque goes though a not very thick part of splined aluminum. There’s a reason the sonnax drum and the 4l79 drum come with those sleeves.
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From: Iowa
if you're pressing it properly, I don't think you're causing any harm
I'm just not sure you're really solving anything
How many failures there did you see BEFORE using the sleeve...I know you say you've never seen one after (I have) but if you also never saw any before...what did you gain?
To the average reader here...if you WANT to use the sleeve, that's A-OK. Just make sure you support the drum properly pressing things in and out. If you don't support it properly you'll cause more harm than good.
but if you want to make 500+ hp on a stock input drum and not sleeve it...there are LOTS and LOTS of cases of guys doing exactly that with no issues.
I'm just not sure you're really solving anything
How many failures there did you see BEFORE using the sleeve...I know you say you've never seen one after (I have) but if you also never saw any before...what did you gain?
To the average reader here...if you WANT to use the sleeve, that's A-OK. Just make sure you support the drum properly pressing things in and out. If you don't support it properly you'll cause more harm than good.
but if you want to make 500+ hp on a stock input drum and not sleeve it...there are LOTS and LOTS of cases of guys doing exactly that with no issues.
if you're pressing it properly, I don't think you're causing any harm
I'm just not sure you're really solving anything
How many failures there did you see BEFORE using the sleeve...I know you say you've never seen one after (I have) but if you also never saw any before...what did you gain?
To the average reader here...if you WANT to use the sleeve, that's A-OK. Just make sure you support the drum properly pressing things in and out. If you don't support it properly you'll cause more harm than good.
but if you want to make 500+ hp on a stock input drum and not sleeve it...there are LOTS and LOTS of cases of guys doing exactly that with no issues.
I'm just not sure you're really solving anything
How many failures there did you see BEFORE using the sleeve...I know you say you've never seen one after (I have) but if you also never saw any before...what did you gain?
To the average reader here...if you WANT to use the sleeve, that's A-OK. Just make sure you support the drum properly pressing things in and out. If you don't support it properly you'll cause more harm than good.
but if you want to make 500+ hp on a stock input drum and not sleeve it...there are LOTS and LOTS of cases of guys doing exactly that with no issues.
i thought I mentioned earlier than in my cam only Silverado, I split one myself?
That was with no sleeve. over the years I’ve seen 3 or 4 with a cracked hub on the drum. I’ve never seen one with a sleeve have a cracked hub. In my mind, that’s enough experience/reason/science to draw my own conclusion. And the fact that sonnax and 4l79 include one with their drums. Use it. Don’t use it. Matters not to me, but on my builds, I will continue to use it because I know it helps prevent it from splitting. There’s no way that it wouldn’t help. If you have a stock rebuild, it’s probably not needed. But if you drive like an idiot, have a destructive customer, tow alot, my advice is it’s extra insurance. I can’t fathom that anyone would even try to disagree with that.
I think mine cracked because I was towing more than the factory recommended max towing weight.
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There is alot of stuff that sonnax and others sell that is just not needed.
I'll agree there's no way it's gonna hurt (unless you're not pressing it right...and I'm trying to speak to the average reader here on the forum that has a higher likelyhood of damaging from an incorrect press)
After seeing lots of these units over the years, I guess that just is not a failure point I pay too much attention to because it's a pretty low % and the few instances that I have seen breakage even with the sleeve...I presume the level of abuse would have caused damage no matter the instance, so why bother.
If you like using it, or if anybody else does. That's just fine. I won't tell ya that it's wrong.
But I dont think it's necessarily a big value add
I'll agree there's no way it's gonna hurt (unless you're not pressing it right...and I'm trying to speak to the average reader here on the forum that has a higher likelyhood of damaging from an incorrect press)
After seeing lots of these units over the years, I guess that just is not a failure point I pay too much attention to because it's a pretty low % and the few instances that I have seen breakage even with the sleeve...I presume the level of abuse would have caused damage no matter the instance, so why bother.
If you like using it, or if anybody else does. That's just fine. I won't tell ya that it's wrong.
But I dont think it's necessarily a big value add
There is alot of stuff that sonnax and others sell that is just not needed. Agreed, but i think this part is needed in higher than stock abuse situations
I'll agree there's no way it's gonna hurt (unless you're not pressing it right...and I'm trying to speak to the average reader here on the forum that has a higher likelyhood of damaging from an incorrect press) I agree it is dangerous to try and press it on if you've never done one and do not know what to expect. I made support/press sleeves in my lathe just for this...so its done correctly.
After seeing lots of these units over the years, I guess that just is not a failure point I pay too much attention to because it's a pretty low % and the few instances that I have seen breakage even with the sleeve...I presume the level of abuse would have caused damage no matter the instance, so why bother. In my experience, if I fix the slippages within the trans, then something else will give. The hub cracking may not be a common failure, but it definitely is a failure point.
If you like using it, or if anybody else does. That's just fine. I won't tell ya that it's wrong.
But I dont think it's necessarily a big value add
I'll agree there's no way it's gonna hurt (unless you're not pressing it right...and I'm trying to speak to the average reader here on the forum that has a higher likelyhood of damaging from an incorrect press) I agree it is dangerous to try and press it on if you've never done one and do not know what to expect. I made support/press sleeves in my lathe just for this...so its done correctly.
After seeing lots of these units over the years, I guess that just is not a failure point I pay too much attention to because it's a pretty low % and the few instances that I have seen breakage even with the sleeve...I presume the level of abuse would have caused damage no matter the instance, so why bother. In my experience, if I fix the slippages within the trans, then something else will give. The hub cracking may not be a common failure, but it definitely is a failure point.
If you like using it, or if anybody else does. That's just fine. I won't tell ya that it's wrong.
But I dont think it's necessarily a big value add
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