4L60E Build

I'm going to clean up the case, and parts. Then rebuild each drum as I go. A custom kit would be awesome but I don't know if I can wait. I really need to get this transmission built so I can get to using my truck. I've settled on the following parts so far:
Sonnax Plastic Check ***** - 10000-08
Sonnax Shift Kit - HP-4L60E-01 (Frank @ Performabuilt recommended this for a DIY build.)
Questions about these parts:
New bushings - will any old bushings do? Can I just order off eBay? For the most part yes
New seals - does anybody sell a seal kit? Yes, any trans supplier has seal and clutch kits with or without steels. You can also pick and chose the parts you want.
Sonnax Smartshell - 77749-02K
Do I have to buy a sonnax pin to go with this? or will my old one (or new one with corvette 2nd & 3rd servos) be fine? If you are going to set your band clearance I highly recommend the Sonnax long pin.
I use Whatever It Takes Transmission Parts. You can order a rebuild kit or pick and choose the parts you need. You can look up your parts on their online store or find a location near you. What I do is look up the parts numbers on their online store and then contact their local branch to order. The local branch has always been cheaper than online for me. You can pick the parts up or they will ship. My local branch also delivers to local rebuilds and I will meet the delivery person on their route so I don't have tp travel so far to pick them up or pay shipping.
Pro-Built Automatics is a one-man business, operated by a hard working man that is past retirement age.
So anyone that wishes to receive his services will have to be patient.
On top of that, I know he has been having issues obtaining parts.
The best advice, that I can give you guys...
is to call him ONCE and leave a message if he does not answer.
This usually means that he is working to or beyond his limit.
He does return phone calls when he can take on another customer.
It depends on where you purchase the parts, and the quantity of parts.
I don't think you guys are purchasing anywhere near the amount of parts, that PBA is regularly purchasing.
LOL! My shop spent about $7,800 in transmission parts last month... and a whole lot more in parts for Engines, Transfer-Cases, Differentials, Electrical, and Electronics.
I was not able to get the amount of bushings, hard-parts, valve-body parts, solenoids, seals, and clutches that I needed...
I am glad that you guys did though.
It depends on where you purchase the parts, and the quantity of parts.
I don't think you guys are purchasing anywhere near the amount of parts, that PBA is regularly purchasing.
LOL! My shop spent about $7,800 in transmission parts last month... and a whole lot more in parts for Engines, Transfer-Cases, Differentials, Electrical, and Electronics.
I was not able to get the amount of bushings, hard-parts, valve-body parts, solenoids, seals, and clutches that I needed...
I am glad that you guys did though.

I have spent about $4000 in parts in the last month-month and a half tho. The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Pro-Built Automatics is a one-man business, operated by a hard working man that is past retirement age.
So anyone that wishes to receive his services will have to be patient.
On top of that, I know he has been having issues obtaining parts.
The best advice, that I can give you guys...
is to call him ONCE and leave a message if he does not answer.
This usually means that he is working to or beyond his limit.
He does return phone calls when he can take on another customer.
https://probuiltautomatics.com/shop/...998-early-2006
https://probuiltautomatics.com/shop/...998-early-2006

I ordered that kit with the Circle D 278mm converter. Dana said it should work perfectly for slow overland driving.
Last edited by weinerschizel; Jun 16, 2021 at 12:23 AM.
Honestly the hardest part for me of the entire process.. was removing my exhaust. And that's cuz I used the cheap clamps everyone told me not to use.
Look forward to your results. 👍
makes me feel a lot better. That and Dana said a LOT of the big players are ordering his kits for their builds. Additionally, he said in all his years virtually nobody has had issues after building his kits. He includes a step by step guide with every detail and video. Really excited to get the kit.That exhaust is a bit of a PITA. Mine is still factory, but I've removed it twice now. I'm worried about how the wiring harness disconnects. I too can attribute a LOT to Youtube. Gave me confidence to think about doing this. Watched a TON of videos of rebuilds. I also bought a book, GM Automatic Overdrive Transmission Builder's and Swappers Guide.
One last note, I asked Dana why nobody uses the 5 pinion planetary. He said back in the day he called a GM engineer when they released those. That they are actually a cheapened 4 pinion planetary. They had to add a 5th gear because the gearset is weaker. It's made from powdered metal. Additionally, the oil windows are much smaller and it gets less oil on the gears. That they are NO use, the 4 Pinions are much more robust.
One last note, I asked Dana why nobody uses the 5 pinion planetary. He said back in the day he called a GM engineer when they released those. That they are actually a cheapened 4 pinion planetary. They had to add a 5th gear because the gearset is weaker. It's made from powdered metal. Additionally, the oil windows are much smaller and it gets less oil on the gears. That they are NO use, the 4 Pinions are much more robust.

Sun Shell Front HERE: Dana said these sometimes go bad. I described mine over the phone. However, made this video. Not sure if anybody else can tell if it's "bad" by my description / has issues. Thanks!
Got the TruCool 40,000 LPD47391: The box has a warning not to use the cooler under 32F without a thermal bypass. I am stupid as sometimes I go north (like once every year or two). Not sure if I should have bought the one with the bypass or if I can find a thermostatic valve.
Pressure / Shrader Valve port: an idea I had. Not sure if there's a way to hookup a shrader valve somehow by the cooler. That way later on I can attach a pressure gauge if I want.
Sun Shell Front HERE: Dana said these sometimes go bad. I described mine over the phone. However, made this video. Not sure if anybody else can tell if it's "bad" by my description / has issues. Thanks!
Got the TruCool 40,000 LPD47391: The box has a warning not to use the cooler under 32F without a thermal bypass. I am stupid as sometimes I go north (like once every year or two). Not sure if I should have bought the one with the bypass or if I can find a thermostatic valve.
Pressure / Shrader Valve port: an idea I had. Not sure if there's a way to hookup a shrader valve somehow by the cooler. That way later on I can attach a pressure gauge if I want.
The Video that you Posted is not showing the Reaction (Sun) Shell.
Your Video shows the Front Planetary Ring-Gear and the Reaction Shaft that is held together by a Snap-Ring.
The Reaction (Sun) Shell is the much larger Part that is under the Reaction Shaft, separated by a Thrust-Washer or Torrington-Bearing.
Shown below:
The splines here either strip-out or get broken-off.
The Reaction Shaft should be replaced if the Bushing surface has worn the Shaft, or if the splines are damaged, or if the teeth that mesh into the Ring-Gear are worn/ have excessive play.
If you are using the external Oil-Cooler in combination with a Radiator that has an internal Oil-Cooler...
You do not need to worry.
If the external Oil-Cooler is used alone... it could be an issue.








