Answers in red.
I use Whatever It Takes Transmission Parts. You can order a rebuild kit or pick and choose the parts you need. You can look up your parts on their online store or find a location near you. What I do is look up the parts numbers on their online store and then contact their local branch to order. The local branch has always been cheaper than online for me. You can pick the parts up or they will ship. My local branch also delivers to local rebuilds and I will meet the delivery person on their route so I don't have tp travel so far to pick them up or pay shipping.

 

The main thing that Dana does is tailor a shift kit that would match your vehicle and put together a rebuild kit with the parts to meet your needs. As for the rebuild kit this is nothing that you can't do on your own if know the parts you need. You can do the same with a TransGo shift kit and some Sonnax parts sprinkled in. The biggest benefit that Dana offers is getting the information to drill the separator plate, I think it may even come pre-drilled.

 

He will pre-drill the Separator-Plate, as well as modify it (plug holes/ add holes) as needed (if you ask him to).

Pro-Built Automatics is a one-man business, operated by a hard working man that is past retirement age.
So anyone that wishes to receive his services will have to be patient.

On top of that, I know he has been having issues obtaining parts.

The best advice, that I can give you guys...
is to call him ONCE and leave a message if he does not answer.
This usually means that he is working to or beyond his limit.
He does return phone calls when he can take on another customer.

 

I’ve been building unit after unit and haven’t had problems getting any parts.

 

Several of the DIY guys have said the same...
It depends on where you purchase the parts, and the quantity of parts.

I don't think you guys are purchasing anywhere near the amount of parts, that PBA is regularly purchasing.
LOL! My shop spent about $7,800 in transmission parts last month... and a whole lot more in parts for Engines, Transfer-Cases, Differentials, Electrical, and Electronics.

I was not able to get the amount of bushings, hard-parts, valve-body parts, solenoids, seals, and clutches that I needed...
I am glad that you guys did though.

 

yea I’m not a shop, just a lowly diy-er. I have spent about $4000 in parts in the last month-month and a half tho.

 

That is a decent amount over 6 or 7 weeks for one person.

 

I'm a small 1 man show and I build about 60 unit's a year. I still had issue's obtaining parts. Now keep in mind I try to buy from WIT only, first it was accumalator pistons, then the corvette servo, then GPZ-105 frictions dried up, then I couldn't get lindered steels for the GPZ-105 packs. Now I cant get reverse input drums. Solenoids and misc parts are spotty. I spent more money with Ebay in the last year than I ever have.

 

I to buy mostly from WIT and on this 200-4R I had to go to Amazon for a reman converter. WIT said they couldn't get one.

 

I doubt you will have better luck...
But you can try asking for/ looking for a 1982-1983 THM700-R4 Torque-Converter instead.

 

I'm going to start ordering parts but will hold off on shift kit / valve body stuff. Then hopefully I'm fortunate enough to connect with him at which point I'll have him get me those parts

 

Dana got back with me. He's going to custom tailor this kit for my build:

https://probuiltautomatics.com/shop/...998-early-2006

 

That's a nice kit, should do well for you.

 

Dana is SUPER nice. He's helping me right now. Ordered my kit and torque converter

I ordered that kit with the Circle D 278mm converter. Dana said it should work perfectly for slow overland driving.

 

I'm new here. But I recently finished my own 4l60e build. It was my first time ever. I was super scared. But I followed the ""transmission bench: project 4l60e" series of videos step by step guide on YouTube and I have a running and working car now. I must of watched all those videos a minimum of 5x from start to finish before I decided I could do it.

Honestly the hardest part for me of the entire process.. was removing my exhaust. And that's cuz I used the cheap clamps everyone told me not to use.

Look forward to your results. 👍

 

@LT1Z09 Awesome makes me feel a lot better. That and Dana said a LOT of the big players are ordering his kits for their builds. Additionally, he said in all his years virtually nobody has had issues after building his kits. He includes a step by step guide with every detail and video. Really excited to get the kit.

That exhaust is a bit of a PITA. Mine is still factory, but I've removed it twice now. I'm worried about how the wiring harness disconnects. I too can attribute a LOT to Youtube. Gave me confidence to think about doing this. Watched a TON of videos of rebuilds. I also bought a book, GM Automatic Overdrive Transmission Builder's and Swappers Guide.

One last note, I asked Dana why nobody uses the 5 pinion planetary. He said back in the day he called a GM engineer when they released those. That they are actually a cheapened 4 pinion planetary. They had to add a 5th gear because the gearset is weaker. It's made from powdered metal. Additionally, the oil windows are much smaller and it gets less oil on the gears. That they are NO use, the 4 Pinions are much more robust.

 

That would be me.

 

Okay it's happening! I'm slowly inspecting parts preparing for the rebuild kit to come. Link to my inspection photos and videos HERE More of just a visual inspection right now. I don't have all the factory dimensions and tolerances (yet).

Sun Shell Front HERE: Dana said these sometimes go bad. I described mine over the phone. However, made this video. Not sure if anybody else can tell if it's "bad" by my description / has issues. Thanks!

Got the TruCool 40,000 LPD47391: The box has a warning not to use the cooler under 32F without a thermal bypass. I am stupid as sometimes I go north (like once every year or two). Not sure if I should have bought the one with the bypass or if I can find a thermostatic valve.

Pressure / Shrader Valve port: an idea I had. Not sure if there's a way to hookup a shrader valve somehow by the cooler. That way later on I can attach a pressure gauge if I want.

 

The Video that you Posted is not showing the Reaction (Sun) Shell.
Your Video shows the Front Planetary Ring-Gear and the Reaction Shaft that is held together by a Snap-Ring.
The Reaction (Sun) Shell is the much larger Part that is under the Reaction Shaft, separated by a Thrust-Washer or Torrington-Bearing.
Shown below:


The splines here either strip-out or get broken-off.

The Reaction Shaft should be replaced if the Bushing surface has worn the Shaft, or if the splines are damaged, or if the teeth that mesh into the Ring-Gear are worn/ have excessive play.

If you are using the external Oil-Cooler in combination with a Radiator that has an internal Oil-Cooler...
You do not need to worry.
If the external Oil-Cooler is used alone... it could be an issue.

 

Op....in case there is any question...ALWAYS replace the sun shell (shown in pic above) with a heavy duty one or a beast. This is a major failure point of this trans. EVERY and I mean EVERY build I do gets a heavy duty or beast shell. No matter what. Even if the car or truck is being flipped (sold). Even if it’s for a paw paw. I never use a stock shell. They go in the trash bin.