I am getting ready to venture into rebuilding my 4L80E on my own, for the record this is for my offroad rig, but you guys have tons of great tech on this site so I figured I'd ask here. I've read a bunch about what mods to do (rollerize rear output, dual feed the directs, drilling out the pump lubrication hole, possibly removing 3 and 4 accumulators and drilling the separator plate. I ordered a Deluxe master kit from Transmission bench, however in their videos they recommend also ordering the Superior shift correction kit, and the Transgo actuator limit valve repair kit. Are these items needed? I don't see anyone else mentioning these, so I'm on the fence about them. Any help / pointers would be greatly appreciated.

 

i use the OS afl valves. maybe open up the lube circuit orifices. crawlers are hard on planet gears so make sure the planet thrusts are in tip top shape

big cooler, lots of oil volume and cooling capacity needed

 

What year is your 4L80E Core?
Later units really benefit from a Hollow Intermediate-Shaft.

Almost every Unit should get a new Pressure-Regulator Boost-Valve and Sleeve.

I would also recommend having a good look at the AFL Valve, and replace it if needed as TruckDoug said.
That would be the main concern with the Valve-Body.

Dual feeding, and Lube-Orifice enlargement (for late models), help a ton!

I personally have been trying to hunt down some straight-cut Gear-Sets for heavier Trucks.
I am also looking to collect Over-Drive Sun-Gears/ Overrun Drums.
The Over-Drive Sun-Gear often suffers/ wears... and in heavier Trucks, they really suffer!
Take a good look at yours... at times good replacements can be hard to find (especially the early model version).

 

My core is an 06 model. Just a little more background, it’s going behind a 5.3, engine is currently stock but before the transmission swap will be getting cam swapped, some head work and injectors/TB if needed. Hoping to be in the 450hp range with it when all said and done. I say it’s a crawler, 50% of its time will be on the rocks, the other 50% will are street use, but there for sure will be some full throttle fun mixed in throughout lol.

 

I’m guessing the shift correction kit won’t be necessary if I go with this shift recalibration kit?


https://www.ckperformance.com/View/4...ALIBRATION-KIT


They off another one as well that had a few more in depth mods it looks like.

https://www.ckperformance.com/View/M...LY-UPGRADE-KIT

 

if you're looking to buy a kit...and you're from Texas....talk to @Jake's Performance
Spend money with the businesses that support this forum if you'll be using this forum

 

Not to mention CK had to copy our work to get anything working right on a 4L80E.

 

I'd skip that superior shift correction kit. As suggested above the AFL and TCC are often replaced. MaroonMonsterLS1, Truckdoug, Vorteciroc and Jake taught me everything I know about the 4L80E so you are in good hands with those guys! I still have must to learn but here's my 2 cents:

1. You can perform a vacuum check on the stock valve body and address anything that is problematic. Check this out: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...alve-body.html

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...uum-test-guide

2.Inspect the AFL bore and valve and if vacuum test shows no good and not 18"hg vacuum, one solution is to replace the valve with 48-ACT-TL Transgo AFL valve and kit.

3.Inspect TCC Regulator valve and bore vacuum. Replace with 34994-01K Standard if only valve is bad, but if vacuum test shows oversize is needed due to it not reading 18" hg, as I understand it, you may need to replace with an oversize valve and ream the bore.

I used the boost sleeve, boost valve, and PR valve that came in the Superior Shift correction kit that you mention above (https://superiortransmission.com/pro...erior-k4l80-e/) but I'm wondering if I'm going to have issues down the line because I saw a video where a "well known" supplier of these aftermarket boost valves are having issues with consistency. Now I don't know if this inconsistency applies to all aftermarket boost sleeves, boost valves, and pressure regulator valves?

I didn't inspect the superior parts that I installed along with Jakes pressure regulator spring closely so I don't know how they compare to the stock parts.

I'm wondering if I should have just used a stock boost sleeve, boost valve, and PR valve along with Jakes spring to avoid possible future issues?

Can anyone chime in on if I need to swap those three parts back out for the stock parts?

I'm using jakes D3+ transbrake and yes, the 0.093" hole was drilled from the line pressure to converter charge circuit in the pump.

 

As already stated, you'll be better off going with Jake's kit. You can check out this video here to see what all his stage kit 2 includes for example.

In addition to what comes in that kit and the suggestions already mentioned above, you should also consider purchasing from Jake the following items if needed:

-Bearing kit that includes the 4 bearings
-The captured bearing in the OD planet if yours needs replaced or just get a whole new planet if you don't have the tools to disassemble it. Very important that you ensure that bearing isn't worn before assembly.
-A 0.010" shim for use under forward drum bushing in the event that additional end play adjustment is needed to dial in the front endplay. In many cases, you won't need it as you'll have 5 selective pump washers to adjust for front endplay.
-A new wave plate for use in the forward drum if yours needs replaced
-A new EPC force motor
-New input/output sensors

Also that transmission bench set of videos you reference I don't believe mentions proper adjustment of the rear servo piston or setting proper endplay in the 4 critical locations.
You'll want to check this out:

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...-train-failure

and this:

You Tube

And these 3 videos are critical. A 4L80E is only as good as the accuracy of the dipstick reading and the installation of the converter.

You Tube

You Tube

You Tube

 

Wow, thanks for all the input for sure guys, I do appreciate it. I've actually gotten my hands on all the parts for rollerizing the output today. I'll give Jake a call this week and see what I need to finish off my lift and hopefully get this thing torn down and rebuilt in the next couple weeks. I'm waiting to teardown until I get all the rebuild parts on hand to cutdown on the time its in pieces. We have a parts warehouse here in town that will have any hard parts that I come across needing replacement.

On that note though, when it comes to the shift improver kit, can anyone explain what the benefit is over removing the accumulators? Cant really find an explanation on it with my halfassed searching so far lol.

 

Not only that but Jake's is one of the best, if not the best 4L80 shop out there.

 

I will gladly be Third for Jake's Performance!

 

Sorry I did not realize that you catered to the general public, you are always referring people to Jake's. No disrespect intended.

 

You are correct, I don't.

I was just saying that I will be the Third person to recommend Jake's Performance, in this thread.

Maroon Monster was the First person to recommend Jake's.
You were the Second to recommend Jake's.
And I was the Third.

 

Man! I sure took that the wrong way.

 

My rebuild kit from Transmission bench came in 2 days after ordering, I was highly impressed with that. Based on the advice of many, I went ahead and ordered BW High Energy clutches to use instead of the Raybestos Tan stock replacements that came with the kit. Ordered in the AFL repair kit as well just to be safe. Trying to settle on what cam I am going to go with in order to decide how in depth to go on the other mods. Dual feeding and rollerizing output are for sure, just trying to decide where to draw the line. In hindsight, probably should have just done Jake's kit and been done, lesson learned for the future though.