To get to 9 frictions, I am removing one 3-4 .065" GPZ105 and installing oneGPZ100 .080". The thickest clearance I can get to is .030".

.030" feeler gauge...tight but it's in mid-air and holding!

Where should I put the 080, or doesn't it matter? Also my friction clearances are measured dry and I bought just one 080 to get the clearance down a little closer to .030"... I was afraid it would go down to ,028" but if a feeler goes in, it counts, right?

Now, do I disassemble to wet the clutches and reassemble, or try squeeze-bottling some fluid? I don't wanna use the red Loctite until I am positive I'm done in there...

Thanks everybody!

 

I put the thicker clutches by the end plate.

 

first of all, if you can swap out a steel instead of a clutch, running a thicker steel would be the better option.

if that doesn't work for you...put the thick clutch in the center of the pack.
Center of the pack sees the most heat and having more mass there is better. Thicker in the middle.

 

Thanks, I didn't figure out how to do that yet. I had .043" clearance using (9) .065" GPZ105's and (8) Scotchbrited Kolenes, I think they were .077/.078". So I bought one GPZ100 .080" friction. It's tight but was able to get it between the bolt-on top and the top clutch.

The only other steels I have are the stock steels from the 2007 core. I haven't measured them.

 

What are the thicknesses of the Apply and Backing Plates being used?

 

I am using the Sonnax Smart Tech input drum & 300M shaft... 77733-11KA.
It is similar to the 4l79 but the top bolts on with 15 cap screws and stock dimension clutches. The cap becomes the final part of the stack. The apply plate is their proprietary too I think. I'll edit this, I'M SWITCHING COMPUTERS and I think I have the page open on the other one...here's instructions sheet...oops, won't take pdf...

 

Here are Sonnax's instructions:
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.ne...=1598558642193

 

I am familiar with it...
When 4L79 Drums are not an option, I usually go to the Sonnax version.

The Apply plate can be swapped for one of the GM versions as another way to alter the Clutch clearance.

 

So how did they make their apply stiffer but yet thinner? and reduce flex?

I tried measuring a steel and the stock apply and I'm giving up on this caliper and getting a normal micrometer or a digital, but I already spent November's cash so it's not going to be anything special... if it's got a ratchet thimble, I'm gonna spin it and whatever it says that's the # I'm going with.

 

Sonnax says to get .050" - .060" final clearance...

Using NINE GPZ105's gets me ~.043" 3-4 stack clearance.

Using 8 GPZ105's + one GPZ100 .080" = .030" 3-4 stack clearance

Both choices use 9 frictions and 8 Scotchbrited Kolene .077" steels.

I know some shoot for .005" clearance per friction, and some shoot for .010" per friction... I can only get close to .005" per...

Which should I go with, .030" or .043" total?

Thanks.

 

Leave it at 0.0300"

I have gone with less... and works fine.

 

Thanks everybody!

On a different note, while looking at our favorite bidding/buying site, I saw something strange in frictions...
BRONZE Overrun frictions! They just list them as

(2) TWO 4L60E HEAVY DUTY RACING BRONZE Overrun Clutches

So I was wondering WHY... any idea? Thanks.

 

bronze clutches were super common back in the 60's. Factory used them.
Some continued to use them into the 80's maybe 90's in performance units.
They're still sold for alot of units surprisingly.

Apparently somebody has em for a 700r4...don't waste your effort even looking at them. Tan paper is the best option there

 

I guess if we wanted to discuss older Fluids, then Bronze Friction Elements could be discussed for Automatic and Manual Transmissions.

As Maroon Monster said, with Dexron Fuilds (all versions up to Dexron-VI) Paper is ideal.