4l60e temps keep rising
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
4l60e temps keep rising So I have a B&M 70264 cooler and use ehack to scan all my stuff and temps stay around 190ish doing 90. For ever 10pm after that my temps rise 10 degrees. At 100mph I’m at 200 degrees and so on and so forth. 150mph would equate to 250 degrees it seems. Any tips and tricks to keep temps down on a 4l60e? My cooler is mounted in front of condenser.
In traffic it cools to about 180-185*
In traffic it cools to about 180-185*
TECH Addict
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,513
Likes: 480
From: PDX-OR-USA
Your cooler should be mounted with fitting UP, or fittings to the side with oil
from trans to cooler connected at the bottom fitting and return to trans at the top fitting.
If mounted fittings down, plate coolers can plug with air bubbles that never clear..
-6 line should handle the flow.
Use smoke to look at air flow when the engine is running (Incense sticks work pretty good) ,
do you have a good shroud around the fan? you may need a foam ring around the edge of the cooler to insure its pulling air through it.
If you've got a AC condense in there,, you might look at a custom one that is full width of the radiator
and thicker but shorter so there is less resistance to air flow. Fan config can be a big factor.
from trans to cooler connected at the bottom fitting and return to trans at the top fitting.
If mounted fittings down, plate coolers can plug with air bubbles that never clear..
-6 line should handle the flow.
Use smoke to look at air flow when the engine is running (Incense sticks work pretty good) ,
do you have a good shroud around the fan? you may need a foam ring around the edge of the cooler to insure its pulling air through it.
If you've got a AC condense in there,, you might look at a custom one that is full width of the radiator
and thicker but shorter so there is less resistance to air flow. Fan config can be a big factor.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 187
Likes: 23
From: Israel
You didnt describe your problem properly, so i will have two awnsers for you :
What can cause your tranny to overheat?
1. Your clutches are slipping.
2. You bypassed the OEM cooler with an aftermarket one
You just installed your cooler and the tranny started to overheat? You bypass your OEM cooler, didnt you?
NEVER bypass your OEM cooler on a non-rebuilt transmission that has leaks and clutches slip. go straight like this :
Tranny > OEM Cooler > Aftermarket Cooler > Back to tranny.
It keeps my 4l60e at max of 175F at a very very hot day when i do a lot of WOTs. My tranny is in good good shape.
150f at cruising
@pdxmotorhead just gave hell of an advice. Never thought of this myself.
What can cause your tranny to overheat?
1. Your clutches are slipping.
2. You bypassed the OEM cooler with an aftermarket one
You just installed your cooler and the tranny started to overheat? You bypass your OEM cooler, didnt you?
NEVER bypass your OEM cooler on a non-rebuilt transmission that has leaks and clutches slip. go straight like this :
Tranny > OEM Cooler > Aftermarket Cooler > Back to tranny.
It keeps my 4l60e at max of 175F at a very very hot day when i do a lot of WOTs. My tranny is in good good shape.
150f at cruising
@pdxmotorhead just gave hell of an advice. Never thought of this myself.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 187
Likes: 23
From: Israel
Awesome temperature.
But i guess is your tranny is built and it has no clutch slipage and no leaks.(This is the source of the heat generation)
The topic starter didnt mention anything of that. So what i said above applies only to a wore tranny.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,618
Likes: 1,328
From: Iowa
the tq converter is 95% of the heat in an auto trans
slipping clutches will ruin a trans before you need to worry about your cooler bypass
and leaks don't generate heat...they generate messes. And if you run the trans low on fluid, you'll have issues before you need to worry about cooler setup.
Bypassing the internal cooler can be done without problems. 1000's of people have done it without problem.
some guys retain the oem cooler and don't have issue either.
Situationally dependent
You should quit giving advice on things
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 187
Likes: 23
From: Israel
2 Coolers is better than one. So my advice is perfect.
You're so called a "pro", and you've should have known how slow the 3/4 dies in a tranny that was built by GM. The moment the clutches slips, they will generate enormous amount of heat. That said, it does not apply to people who assembled something wrong and theyr 3/4 died a day after.
Anyways, Thanks for the info.
You're so called a "pro", and you've should have known how slow the 3/4 dies in a tranny that was built by GM. The moment the clutches slips, they will generate enormous amount of heat. That said, it does not apply to people who assembled something wrong and theyr 3/4 died a day after.
Anyways, Thanks for the info.
Last edited by Edward Stark; Dec 23, 2021 at 09:38 AM.
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,618
Likes: 1,328
From: Iowa
2 Coolers is better than one. So my advice is perfect.
You're so called a "pro", and you've should have known how slow the 3/4 dies in a tranny that was built by GM. The moment the clutches slips, they will generate enormous amount of heat. That said, it does not apply to people who assembled something wrong and theyr 3/4 died a day after.
Anyways, Thanks for the info.
You're so called a "pro", and you've should have known how slow the 3/4 dies in a tranny that was built by GM. The moment the clutches slips, they will generate enormous amount of heat. That said, it does not apply to people who assembled something wrong and theyr 3/4 died a day after.
Anyways, Thanks for the info.
If the coolant is 195 degrees
and the transmission is 150 degrees...the heat exchanger in the side of the radiator tank is not cooling the transmission fluid...but rather it is heating it up
so no...2 is not always better than 1
in cold climates where you may want the trans to warm up faster...keeping the oem cooler is a fine idea
for a stock vehicle that just needs to maintain 195-205 like the engine...then the oem cooler is fine again
but to say slipping clutches and leaks are the source of most transmission heat...that is a fairly foolish statement.
overrunning clutches like the reverse clutches in 4th gear will generate a bit of heat as they drag, but that pales in comparison to the heat generated in the tq converter.
You keep giving out bad information and it just muddies up the forum and gives people bad ideas or actually hurts more than it helps
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TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,051
Likes: 716
From: Poplarville, MS
So I have a B&M 70264 cooler and use ehack to scan all my stuff and temps stay around 190ish doing 90. For ever 10pm after that my temps rise 10 degrees. At 100mph I’m at 200 degrees and so on and so forth. 150mph would equate to 250 degrees it seems. Any tips and tricks to keep temps down on a 4l60e? My cooler is mounted in front of condenser.
In traffic it cools to about 180-185*
In traffic it cools to about 180-185*
Please ignore Edward Stark he rebuilt 1 trans by watching YouTube and now he is a trans expert.
1. If the clutches are slipping enough to crate that much heat you would be complaining about your trans slipping and not shifting into all of the gears.
2. If you had internal fluid leaks bad enough to cause the trans to overheat you would have clutch slippage. (see # 1)
I would not think your over heating problem is an air flow issue at 150mph if the cooler is mounted to the radiator and then be cool in traffic.
As MaroonMonsterLS1 says the heat comes from the torque converter, so that is where you should look to solve your issue.
Last edited by bbond105; Dec 23, 2021 at 11:50 AM.
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,051
Likes: 716
From: Poplarville, MS
You didnt describe your problem properly, so i will have two awnsers for you :
What can cause your tranny to overheat?
1. Your clutches are slipping.
2. You bypassed the OEM cooler with an aftermarket one
You just installed your cooler and the tranny started to overheat? You bypass your OEM cooler, didnt you?
NEVER bypass your OEM cooler on a non-rebuilt transmission that has leaks and clutches slip. go straight like this :
Tranny > OEM Cooler > Aftermarket Cooler > Back to tranny.
It keeps my 4l60e at max of 175F at a very very hot day when i do a lot of WOTs. My tranny is in good good shape.
150f at cruising
@pdxmotorhead just gave hell of an advice. Never thought of this myself.
What can cause your tranny to overheat?
1. Your clutches are slipping.
2. You bypassed the OEM cooler with an aftermarket one
You just installed your cooler and the tranny started to overheat? You bypass your OEM cooler, didnt you?
NEVER bypass your OEM cooler on a non-rebuilt transmission that has leaks and clutches slip. go straight like this :
Tranny > OEM Cooler > Aftermarket Cooler > Back to tranny.
It keeps my 4l60e at max of 175F at a very very hot day when i do a lot of WOTs. My tranny is in good good shape.
150f at cruising
@pdxmotorhead just gave hell of an advice. Never thought of this myself.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 187
Likes: 23
From: Israel
The thing is, in my country, there is super limited parts choice and i used everything oem. Oem clutches, oem steels, pistons, even the sep plate is OEM. I have little to no failures (had a couple on my first 2 trannies) and then ive bought a tool from USA to size these new teflons.
By saying what you said, yeah, im a youtube learner. I learned from Transmission Bench,PerformaBuilt[Ryan], Automatic Transmission [Hiram], Brad's Transmission, Express and Auto transmission [David Lee] wich you so disrespect in your post, and they are pro builders compared to some bbond.
Here im learning new things like tweaking hydroalics and aftermarket parts.
There is huge debate going 2 coolers vs 1. Im on the 2 coolers side in my climate and everything that doesnt have a minus temperatures. There are $hitloads threads like these : https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ing-issue.html
Here is a proof that even with completely locked TC, the temps are high. You dont know what youre talking about.
So while me from long testing and personal expirience, and the rest of the industry debating on this, and 2 coolers wins most of the time except what Maroon said above, who the f are you to say what you say and to measure my knowlege? Thanks.
It's low, but only few people here can rate it. And they are not you.
In regards of Maroon, there something so personal going on from Maroon to me. Maybe he's racist, idk. But i love him.
Take this info and fu. Just for protocol, now im being rude.
@MaroonMonsterLS1
Again, this is not what i just thought or suggest. Big names state it :
Leaks = partial apply = slipage = heat.
it takes a lot of miles for the ATF to transform between bright pink to black.
Right now ive got a problem in my 3rd. When i WOT, you can log the engine screaming, but the acceleration is low. At that point, my ATF boil.
Btw, this tranny im look a decent 3/4 setup, because its mine 😂
Last edited by Edward Stark; Dec 23, 2021 at 03:41 PM.
You need to get it off the condenser. I had mine in the condenser and saw Temps up to 200. I took my B&M plate cooler off the condenser and re-located. Then I took a tube and fin off an old truck and mounted that in line as well.
Don't run 2 plate coolers, it'll restrict too much flow. If you want to really keep the Temps down I recommend running a tube and fin on conjuction with the plate style cooler.
The main problem though is the condenser is causing too much heat. You need to get it off there.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 147
Likes: 56
So I have a B&M 70264 cooler and use ehack to scan all my stuff and temps stay around 190ish doing 90. For ever 10pm after that my temps rise 10 degrees. At 100mph I’m at 200 degrees and so on and so forth. 150mph would equate to 250 degrees it seems. Any tips and tricks to keep temps down on a 4l60e? My cooler is mounted in front of condenser.
In traffic it cools to about 180-185*
In traffic it cools to about 180-185*
Is the TCC clutch engaged when you're running at high speeds (over 90mph)? That clutch in the torque converter isn't made to handle much torque, and the aero load at high speeds can overload it and cause it to slip. It's best to disable the TCC engagement over 100mph or so (over 80mph in a truck or SUV, or use "tow/haul" mode to disable it on a truck/SUV).
Other than that, check the condition of everything. Any slippage will be worse at higher speeds, and will cause more heat. It sounds to me like something is slipping at high speeds/high loads, causing friction and heat.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,203
Likes: 1,391
From: Nitro Alley
Well I was going to say something...
But as Bbond105 has said, the Thread has been de-railed.
I know, I know, sometimes when things go Off the Rails... $hit can get rather amusing!
... I am saying to myself right now: yes, no, yes, no (say something, don't say something).
We are very fortunate to have some really great Members, that always Read or Contribute to the Auto-Trans Sub-Forum.
Guys from different backgrounds that are Knowledgeable Enthusiast, or Work in the Field, or just have a bunch of Experience.
People who Contribute here often, really do not get anything out of it...
Other than knowing that they are trying to help out others.
So I ask everyone here...
If someone gives you advice here, and you do not particularly like it; just keep it to yourselves.
We will have less unintelligent arguments across Member's Threads.
Do not get me wrong...
Educated Debate should still take place.
We all learn new things everyday... and I feel as if that is the Main Benefit of this Sub-Forum.
But as Bbond105 has said, the Thread has been de-railed.
I know, I know, sometimes when things go Off the Rails... $hit can get rather amusing!
... I am saying to myself right now: yes, no, yes, no (say something, don't say something).
We are very fortunate to have some really great Members, that always Read or Contribute to the Auto-Trans Sub-Forum.
Guys from different backgrounds that are Knowledgeable Enthusiast, or Work in the Field, or just have a bunch of Experience.
People who Contribute here often, really do not get anything out of it...
Other than knowing that they are trying to help out others.
So I ask everyone here...
If someone gives you advice here, and you do not particularly like it; just keep it to yourselves.
We will have less unintelligent arguments across Member's Threads.
Do not get me wrong...
Educated Debate should still take place.
We all learn new things everyday... and I feel as if that is the Main Benefit of this Sub-Forum.
Last edited by vorteciroc; Dec 27, 2021 at 11:50 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 187
Likes: 23
From: Israel
This is gold.
Nowdays, you cant create constructive debate because Maroon think he knows everything while bbond is sticking his tongue so deep up on Maroon's
Once upon a time, Maroon was giving a really good info here and helped a lot of people including me, thats how he created his fanbase. But now, he is pure ego.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyway, My choice is : Tranny > OEM Cooler > Aftermarket Cooler > Tranny and this is why :
The OEM cooler heats up / cools down the tranny. It maintains the tranny around 200f.
After the ATF heats to around 200f, it cycles thru an aftermarket cooler to bring it down a lot. The tranny gets cool and fresh ATF to work with.
Upsides :
-2 coolers is better than 1 to maintain low transmission temperatures. Water + Air wins Air only.
-When ATF is cool, it has higher viscosity and the tranny becomes less sensitive to leaks in VB and other stuff.(Thats why i hate using dex 6 in a used tranny with some milage). I use Dex 3 only. Dex 6 is MUCH thinner and better for a non-leaky, built tranny.
Downsides :
-If the OEM cooler bursts, your tranny will be flooded with Engine coolant. (I've seen only 1 time on a vehicle that used sink water instead of DexCool).
That works awesome in my climate (35f winter to 150f summer while keeping the tranny at 150f, Non-built, 166k Miles, WOT's only drive on the peak summer) while my job is to keep this trannies alive the longest i can.
No idea how it works in Alaska, like Maroon said.
Nowdays, you cant create constructive debate because Maroon think he knows everything while bbond is sticking his tongue so deep up on Maroon's
Once upon a time, Maroon was giving a really good info here and helped a lot of people including me, thats how he created his fanbase. But now, he is pure ego.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyway, My choice is : Tranny > OEM Cooler > Aftermarket Cooler > Tranny and this is why :
The OEM cooler heats up / cools down the tranny. It maintains the tranny around 200f.
After the ATF heats to around 200f, it cycles thru an aftermarket cooler to bring it down a lot. The tranny gets cool and fresh ATF to work with.
Upsides :
-2 coolers is better than 1 to maintain low transmission temperatures. Water + Air wins Air only.
-When ATF is cool, it has higher viscosity and the tranny becomes less sensitive to leaks in VB and other stuff.(Thats why i hate using dex 6 in a used tranny with some milage). I use Dex 3 only. Dex 6 is MUCH thinner and better for a non-leaky, built tranny.
Downsides :
-If the OEM cooler bursts, your tranny will be flooded with Engine coolant. (I've seen only 1 time on a vehicle that used sink water instead of DexCool).
That works awesome in my climate (35f winter to 150f summer while keeping the tranny at 150f, Non-built, 166k Miles, WOT's only drive on the peak summer) while my job is to keep this trannies alive the longest i can.
No idea how it works in Alaska, like Maroon said.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,203
Likes: 1,391
From: Nitro Alley
This is gold.
Nowdays, you cant create constructive debate because Maroon think he knows everything while bbond is sticking his tongue so deep up on Maroon's
Once upon a time, Maroon was giving a really good info here and helped a lot of people including me, thats how he created his fanbase. But now, he is pure ego.
Nowdays, you cant create constructive debate because Maroon think he knows everything while bbond is sticking his tongue so deep up on Maroon's
Once upon a time, Maroon was giving a really good info here and helped a lot of people including me, thats how he created his fanbase. But now, he is pure ego.
MaroonMonster and Bbond both provide great information from their experience.
From time to time there is some healthy joking around; nothing intended to be injurious.
I will say that if information has been presented incorrectly, the Guys here will correct it as need be.
This is for the benefit of the Members that are reading for learning purposes.
Last edited by vorteciroc; Dec 27, 2021 at 11:51 PM.