...can the pump, band and reverse input drum & other items connected to the input shaft, be removed without removing the valve body and anchor pin? I'm just trying to find a way to be able to move the trans around in "sections" to lighten the load which can be added back later. I understand risks to the pump gasket and the '04 & up wedge seal... I'm just looking for a way to remove the inner "guts" to enable a handicapped person to move the case and assembled rear half to a trunk or cargo area and then install the front half into the case later or at a future location... without pulling the valve body & losing checkballs and having to retorque everything (besides the pump and bellhousing bolts.)

Thanks.

 

I think it would be pretty hard to remove the drum without removing the anchor pin without distorting or damaging something. Maybe another option for you would be to figure out using some sort of "lifting" apparatus to be able to move the complete transmission

 

If you remove the 2/4 servo it can be done but it is very hard to do. Don't forget to remove the TCC solenoid. I think it would be easier to remove the valve body and that would make it lighter.

 

Thanks guys. I almost have all the sub-assemblies ready--the Sonnax drum I just need to Loctite the bolts and torque them to 51 inch lbs, The Reverse-Input drum the frictions are soaking, the only thing I haven't decided yet was the reaction shaft--mine's a 2007 core and I ordered the late '07 and mine's early '07, so I'm debating whether to go with the Sonnax reaction shaft kit w/bearing and shim, or reuse the stock lo-mileage shaft/hub... or buy the different torrington bearing, but I haven't figured if the planet affects that decision. I put in the dual metal cage 29 element sprag and bought the wide roller for the rear. The case I removed the checkball capsule and am installing a Superior K0136.

Put in the rear bushing but knocked it back out and reinstalled it with the notches in a "more correct" location, so with so much in/out on the bushing, I'm thinking of taking it out again and reinstalling with red Loctite. (I've seen some Precision video(s) with that bushing mauled up and found in the extension housing so it worries me.) Any opinions on this? I think it was driver #51?

The servo is all ready and held together with the old green o-ring (a spring) until I'm ready to install to check band clearance; I'm using a new TY drum. I'm using the Vette #2 and the Superior #4, and did the mods TransGo recommended (the 4 notches/cutouts for oil escape? But NOT the 2 little cups in the piston--vorteciroc said that was an old fix that's no longer needed.) The plate I drilled conservatively, it's a multi-purpose vehicle that's heavy and only has 3.42's but 2WD/AWD/4WD selectable, and converter is mild, just 1800-2200 stall. It's just a mild aluminum 5.3L until I decide to go bigger inches or power adder(s). All the $$$ that was to go for performance got detoured into a trans. I'll have to look for the drill sizes. I plugged the 3-4 accumulator with a 1/16th NPT plug, and the VB has most Sonnax o-ringed plugs and abuse valves, HD 2-3 valve & hole drilled in VB, and TransGo SK parts. I did buy the 7CS kit but didn't use it.

I was hoping to put the case with rear movable parts into the trunk and put everything else from the tip of the output shaft forward into the same trunk and drive to someone who'll install it into the XUV, then I'll finish assemble it there in the parking lot and torque everything and have them carry it in.

 

I'm sorry, I should have been more clear. The trans isn't fully assembled yet. I started this rebuild because Trans shops around here charge $2000+, not including tax, to remove yours and install theirs, and they'll keep yours. I'm overbuilding a core and want it R&R'ed. I must find a place to do the labor. It started as a cart build outside, but weather drove me indoors. I have pumps and drums and pieces all over my living room now! I think I can complete the build in a day, if I don't need to buy more parts. BUT if I assemble everything, I personally wouldn't be able to get it out of the house by myself... so if you can think of some level of assembly where I can get it in pieces out to the vehicle, then put it back together and have a shop remove it and install it, please make suggestions. Thanks.

 

WUT???? taking the band out without taking the anchor pin out is super easy! get a big flat head screwdriver. grab the input shaft. if the trans is laying in the pan, pull up on the input shaft...not up...as in out of the trans,,,,up to move the drums AWAY from the pin. when you do that, stick the big flat head under the band right by the anchor and pry it (wont take much effort) up off the pin. now pull the two drums out of the case. simple as can be. I can do a video on it if you like. probably wont be till saturday evening or sunday..

 

not needed. the valvebody is aluminum and doesnt weigh 10 lbs. the main weight is the pump and the two drums.

 

Thanks Kfxguy! I was picturing everything upside-down from watching so many Precision Transmission videos with the pan facing up and him popping the anchor with a screwdriver, but he already had the VB off, as well as the servos out. If this works that may solve my problem! I lost 40 lbs since the pandemic started and I hope it's not muscle mass--it took me 3 tries lifting the trans from the ground onto a cart about waist height--I hope I didn't turn into a 250 lb weakling!

 

Not as easy to put it back together though. I didn't say it couldn't be done.

 

The first build i did i didnt even know that the pin goes out. It was preety easy to install the band like kfxguy said.
I first dissasembled the transmission and then began to search for a guide on how to assemble it back LOL!!! Yeaaah thats how my journey started.

If you remove the servo and lockup solenoid, the drums with the band flys out of the tranny with ease.

Back in the days, only TransmissionBench had a good videos on assembly. But he had the older videos that not available now where he installed band with the pin in.

I still prefer this method today. as Its easier for me personally to wear the belt on the pin instead of trying to aim the pin and the band hole at the same time.

You have to install the band last. You grab the input shaft and leaning it to free space for the band hole to enter the pin.

 

it’s just as easy. Maybe I’ve done so many of them but I can have a complete trans disassembled in under 5-7 minutes. Not bragging, but if you know the method, it’s super easy.
to put band back in, it’s way easier to have trans facing up. With input and reverse input drum already seated, put the bend in, servo pin side in first. Servo can be in the case or not. Does not matter. You will need a big flat head screwdriver. Use it to move the drums a little to wiggle the band into place. The band should be wrapped around the drum, and once you get the servo side in, use the screwdriver to pry lightly under the band, lifting it up over the anchor pin.

im behind on my two builds I’m doing right now, but I’ll try and remember to do a video on removing and installing the band. Either way is quite easy. Not so much when I first started building these things years ago. Takes practice I guess.

keep in mind to be successful at building these things, you must invest in a few tools. One is for input shaft endplay. It’s not needed if you are not changing any drums. If you change the input drum or reverse input drum, ITS A MUST. you just throw the stock shim back in, you are more than likely going to have a problem. You must set the end play. I shoot for .015 on mine.
servo pin clearance. You’d be shocked at the clearance I’ve seen from the factory. I shoot gor .080 to .100. Gives a nice quick shift. I think those shims that come in a trans go shift kit are junk. I throw those away every time I get a unit with one. Then I either put the sonnax pin in and grind to length or I weld the tip longer and reshape it in my lathe. Time consuming yes. But worth it.