MaroonMonsterLS1

Richard at precision is a hack.
if you take advice from him...just stop touching transmissions

as for the stator. They are no simple task to swap or replace properly.
It can be done, but doing it right is a fair bit of work and it's almost never necessary to do it anyway

Edward Stark

True. I think this is the main reason he never does any assembly videos. He is gonna get slammed with a king kong hand by the whole industry and he knows that well.

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

lol when I was first looking into GM transmissions I came across:

Monster Transmissions
Mad Dog
Precision

I asked about all 3 and was told to run away and run away fast.

MaroonMonsterLS1

you found the 3 beating their chest the most
that's about where the skillset ends

matermark

Precision also installs Z-Paks in nearly every 4L60/65/70E... Maybe other transmissions too. Raybestos tried to discontinue them but he must be stopping that, either intentionally or unintentionally by use! He also RTV's the pump bolts as a precaution regardless of them having o-rings, saying if they leak once the trans is installed, fixing the leak would require trans removal.

matermark

I think Monster Trans has an ID video on YT stating if the bellhousing has the top bolt hole, it's a 4L65E!

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

lol...

dixiebandit69

Okay guys, here's a little update:
There has been some discussion on here about separator plates, and the consensus is DO NOT use the new-style AC Delco plates with bonded gaskets, because they have bonded-in screens, which do not have the filtration area of a basket filter.

Well, I bought one of those plates years ago, and it's too late to return it, so I figured I was going to make it work, no matter what.
Here is the new separator plate on top of the old one:




Here's a close-up of one of the screens next to the old plate (there is a slight mismatch in the plates in this picture):



Well guess what? The new style plates will work just fine. Cut out the screens, and the basket filters fit in place, like so:




And just for comparison, here is the old plate on top of the new one:




Last of all, I installed/ sized my input shaft rings; I wanted StockA4 to know that he isn't the only one to use Zip-Ties for this*!




*I have a ****-ton of hose clamps around my shop, but none of them seemed to be the perfect size for this. So I tried Zip-Ties for the first time. I had to sacrifice a couple to get it right, but think I have the method down. The pressure check will be the ultimate test.

matermark

Do you know the brand & part # of the plate you're using? I don't have mine handy but I thought my bonded plate had TWO rectangles above each other in that corner where you snapped in a filter... I think mine's a GM plate, it ends in like 782. There's also one that ends in 783...

I also have the stock plate (2007) that uses gaskets & filters (not bonded.)

dixiebandit69

#24241783

I have no doubt that I will have to drill some of the holes.

2BFAST

iTrader: (11)

Id be leary on using zip ties when you cut the zip tie off you chance nicking the o ring. But, hope it works.

dixiebandit69

That's why you push them off, into the lands between the rings to cut them.

matermark

That's the difference then--my bonded plate must be 24241782...

EDIT: I just looked at it on Amazon and the 782 & 783 look similar... maybe the stock unbonded plate that has the 2 rectangular cutouts... The 782 I bought August 4th for $6.22 & free delivery. Maybe vorteciroc knows of any differences.

dixiebandit69

Guys, I'm having a problem: I cannot get the low-roller clutch snap ring to seat. It's close, but not close enough.
I can start one side in, but about 1/4 of the way through, it won't go into the groove. I've given it some love-taps with a small hammer and long chisel, but it's nowhere close to seating, and even then, it binds the rear planetaries.

This is what I'm talking about:





For the record, this picture was taken under the following conditions for fitment purposes:

- No anti-clunk spring installed
- No low-reverse piston spring installed, just the piston pushed in. Yes, it is seated correctly. This is the original piston that came with this case (I am using parts from two different cores)
- original steels that came with this core. However, I measured all of the L/R steels from both cores, and they all measured .070", plus or minus .001".
- Torrington bearings are installed in the right positions/ directions.
- I tried both L/R carriers, and had the same problem each time.
-There are no ridges on the case lugs that would cause the snap ring to get caught.
- Tried both snap rings.
- Tried both wave-plates.


The fitment problem is always in the same location. Do any of y'all think this case might be warped/ bent?

tayto

sounds like something not seated or your clutch stackup is too high. do you have the correct bearings on the carrier and planetary?

maybe a video will help?

matermark

Try flipping the torrington bearing over and see if it makes any difference. It should be noticeably worse if it was in correctly the first time.

dixiebandit69

Okay guys, I figured out the problem: it was a bearing.
Personally, I blame the ATSG manual for being too vague, and not giving the measurements/ sizes of the bearings like they do with the springs and valves, but I digress.

Here's what happened (I know that I promised in the beginning of this thread to not show too much "transmission ****," but I'm going to post some before/ after pictures in the hope that it helps someone else later on. ):

The bearing in position #683, Rear planetary thrust bearing, was wrong.
Here is a picture of the reaction gear installed, WITHOUT any bearings.


Now here it is, with the INCORRECT bearing installed. As you can see, it fits right into that recess. An easy enough mistake to make.



Here is the incorrect bearing (left; where does this go? ) and correct bearing (right) side by side.



Here's the incorrect bearing on the planetary assembly. It seems to fit okay, if you haven't done this plenty of times before.



Here's the correct bearing on there.


Thanks for the help, and I hope this post helps someone else.

2BFAST

iTrader: (11)

Bearings will get ya.

A bearing, not this particular one, got me one time as well.

Thanks for posting this.

dixiebandit69

UPDATE: I've had the build on hold for the past couple of weeks; I just started a new job, and had to move my tool boxes and equipment around between shops.

I finally got my vacuum testing rig made! It doesn't look as nice as Maroon Monster's; I made most the manifold assembly out of spare pipe fittings that I had laying around my shop, but it should work the same.
Here it is (not pictured: vacuum pump; I'm just going to rent one from O'Reilly's for this build.):




The .035" hole for the calibration plug was probably the hardest part of the whole deal; I had to go into town to buy a special set of tiny bits, because none of the local hardware stores had any that small. Check out how weird it looks in my drill press:




Also, I plugged the 4th accumulator feed hole; it was easier than I thought it would be.

Before:


After:



I'll have some vacuum test results coming in soon. Stay tuned.

2BFAST

iTrader: (11)

The plug with the small orifice, stick something through the hole in it to make sure its free and clear

FYI
Post your vaccum results when done