dixiebandit69

Okay guys, I finally got the vacuum test rig fired up, and the first thing I tested was the pump-halves (I'm using the best parts out of two different transmissions)... And the results were not good.

Both pressure regulator valves tested at 11-11.5" hg.

However, I am using a rental vacuum pump, which is rated for 1.8 cfm, not the 3+ cfm that Sonnax recommends.

I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but do y'all think that is the issue? Because that would be a huge amount of leakage, and none of the clutches were smoked.

dixiebandit69

UPDATE: I have the vacuum test results. I ended up running two vacuum pumps joined by a T-fitting, giving me a total of 3.6 CFM. I'll be ordering a 5-CFM Robinair pump soon, because I do automotive A/C work, and I've been putting off buying a pump for years.

One valvebody was absolutely wrecked; I got some reading of 0 in/hg on a couple of bores! As they say in Spanish, it is el fucked-o.

The other one was much better, but some of the valves/ bores are borderline, in my opinion. I'd like y'alls' opinion of them.

Pressure regulator valve: 11" hg. I know this is really bad; should I bit the bullet and ream the pump, or find another pump?

3-4 shift valve: 11" hg on the end closest to the end-plugs, 22" on the end near the center of the valvebody.

4-3 sequence and 3-4 relay valves: 13" hg

TCC regulator valve: 14.5" hg

AFL Valve: 18.5! Guess I won't be needing that Central Valvebodies AFL valve after all!

Accumulator valve and sleeve: 12" hg

2-3 valve: 19-20" hg

1-2 shift valve: 20" hg

Low overrun valve: 16" hg

Forward abuse plug: 18" hg (Guess I don't need the Sonnax abuse plug/ valve kit, but I'm going to use it anyway.)

Forward abuse valve: 13" hg

Reverse abuse valve: 16.5" hg

Reverse abuse plug: 15" hg

I didn't test the 3-2 valves, because I'm blocking those; I also didn't bother to check the TCC valve, because I'm using the O-ringed Fitzall valve.
Also, I forgot to check the boost valve for some reason, and I'll check back with results tomorrow.

tayto

18" is the MINIMUM for the abuse valve/plugs and AFL, I would strive for higher if you can get something drop in. If the rest of the pump is in good shape then get the PR reamed if not get a new pump. Not sure about the other valves that vac'd low hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.

2BFAST

iTrader: (11)

Def showing wear in a lot of places. Install both Sonnax abuse valve kits, o ringed end plugs.

I would still install the CVB AFL valve......

And I would look for another pump and/or have it reamed if it was me.

dixiebandit69

I was afraid you guys were going to say that; I'll be ordering the AFL valve tonight, and I'll look into getting the pump reamed.

Also, does anyone know what Sonnax's specifications are? I looked through their site, and I only found the test locations, but no real specs.

tayto

in the sonnax 4L60E vacuum test guide, you will notice it lists the part numbers for the drop in valves, reamers, etc. if you search the instructions for those part numbers they will generally give you a minimum vac reading. my pdf viewer on my phone allows me to click on the part numbers in the test guide and will goto sonnax website listing... FWIW

2BFAST

iTrader: (11)

I know there is a "spec", but I wouldnt go chasing numbers. If you tighten up a lot of places within your pump and VB not only fixing mechanical leaks but engineered leaks like you plan to, I think you will have a good foundation after. They key is at least you know your problem areas and know how to address them.

dixiebandit69

I finally tested the boost valve, and...

SURPRISE!

It leaks a ****-ton - 10"/ hg.

So I'm going to need a Sonnax boost valve, but I've got a question:

What is the difference between the ratios that are listed?
Sonnax lists a "Standard OE ratio" and "Large OE ratio."

What will this affect?

Also, just so we're all clear about the parts/ numbers, I'm talking about numbers 77898E-14K (Standard), and 77898E-16K (Large).

tayto

I would use this:
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2168-li...re-booster-kit

MaroonMonsterLS1

.421 diameter
.472 diameter

The p/n you have listed are both for a "late" pump aka a pump with Input Speed Sensor
If you do not have ISS
Then you will need a different boost valve

If you DO have the late pump...I recommend the .472 variety.

dixiebandit69

Dammit, Maroon, you made me doubt myself.
However, I think I have the right part: 4L60E-LB1, the 1.9" valve.

This is what came out of the pump:



This is the valve that came out of it:


If you want the part number off of the pump, I can get that.

MaroonMonsterLS1

yes, lb1 would be the proper valve to replace yours with

dixiebandit69

I just got the LB1 valve today, and I'm kind of confused...
How does this thing work? The valve seems to be stuck inside the sleeve. Isn't the spool valve supposed to move around?

tayto

yes it should come out... maybe a burr on it or something from manufacturing?

dixiebandit69

It turns out that Sonnax sells this assembly stuck together with a small dab of grease; everything is good!




In other news, I bought a big-boy vacuum pump; gone are the days of me paying a guy $30 to vacuum and recharge A/C systems for me!



I'll be dropping off my pump to get reamed at a shop in the "transmission district" probably some time next week.

Stay tuned for the latest test results.

dixiebandit69

UPDATE:

Sometimes, well, MOST times, I really hate where I live. For the past two weeks, I've been trying to find a local transmission shop with a reamer for a Sonnax oversized pressure regulator valve, and THREE of them have said that they had it, only to find out that once I show up - SURPRISE! - they don't actually have it!

It turns out that they didn't even know what the tool/ part was (this tells you a LOT about the quality of transmission repair in my area).
It doesn't help that most of the people working at these shops can't/ won't/ can barely speak English, and my Spanish is admittedly not great.
So I bit the bullet and bought the #77917-TL from Jeg's, on sale for $99.

Anyway, here are the vacuum results with the new valves/ plugs installed:

3-4 shift valve: 18" hg on the end closest to the end-plugs, 22" on the end near the center of the valvebody.

4-3 sequence and 3-4 relay valves: 20" hg

TCC regulator valve: 14.5" hg, still the same

AFL Valve: 21" hg

Accumulator valve and sleeve: 19" hg

2-3 valve: 19-20" hg

1-2 shift valve: 20" hg

Low overrun valve: 16" hg

Forward abuse plug: 21" hg

Forward abuse valve: 16" hg

Reverse abuse valve: 20" hg

Reverse abuse plug: 24" hg (!)

Question: As y'all can see, the TCC regulator valve was not changed, and it's results are at the borderline of what is usable.
Do y'all think that the combination of me using the Fitzall TCC valve, the oversized Sonnax boost valve, and the freshly reamed Pressure regulator valve will provide enough line pressure to cover for the loose-ish TCC pressure regulator?

I really don't want to buy ANOTHER special Sonnax reamer kit that I probably won't use again for a long time.

tayto

https://www.fitzall.com/supportDetail.php?A74741QA-187

dixiebandit69

Thanks, Tayto!

tayto

sorry i just read back and you were already using this.... that valve has been recommended on here before, i would think you'd be ok even with low vac reading? you can also leave the stock tcc valve and flip the inner valve (iso) and try vac testing again. this accomplishes the same thing as the fitzall valve.

dixiebandit69

Okay Tayto, I thought you were referring to a different Fitzall TCC valve; I currently have the A74741QB, not the A74741QA.

I ordered this valve a long time ago, and it says that it's for '04- up transmissions WITH CAN bus.
The engine/ transmission I'm using is from an '04 Tahoe.

Which one should I use, and what are the consequences if I picked the wrong one?