Goddammit - another 4l60 build
Last edited by tayto; May 15, 2022 at 11:27 AM.
Sonnax Part No. SWAT-P1
I'm still going to run it.
Here's how it looked while I was testing it; maybe MaroonMonster, Vortec, or someone else can point out if I'm doing something wrong.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Was just asking is all as bbond mentioned it still seemed a little low as those kits really improve things from what I have experienced.
The vacuum testing is a very useful topic which has only been discussed here starting recently.
If anyone is up to it, please create a list of links to the Sonnax (or other) pages which show exactly where and how to vacuum test each circuit in the valve body.
I found this: https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...uum-test-guide
But is there more?
Also, I see that the Sonnax VACTEST-01K vacuum test stand is listed on Jegs for only $157 but has a 1-month shipping delay. Summit has it in stock but at $248.
Harbor Freight has a 3CFM vacuum pump for $150. (But its their cheapo Pittsburg brand.)
Last edited by mrvedit; May 21, 2022 at 08:23 PM.
DIY Vacuum Test Valve Body - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
Also check out this video
Jegs has the Sonnax 77754-VTP 4L60 Vacuum test plate for the 4L60e for $123. It’s not a necessity but it looks like it would make the job easier.
In other news, I got the Fitzall A74741QA. Here it is next to the A74741QB, in case anyone else is as confused as I was. ("B" on top, "A" on bottom)
I've got good news and bad news about the vacuum test results:
The result of the passage CLOSEST to the edge of the valvebody was 24"! I guess the O-Rings will do that for you.
Bad news: The results for the inner isolator valve were somehow WORSE than the initial test: 11.5" was the best I could get, and I was screwing around with this thing for awhile to optimize the reading. I have no idea how I got the 14.5" number the first time.
Here's a picture of the passage I tested, in case anyone has any criticisms:
Question 1: Since I really, REALLY, REALLY don't want to buy another special Sonnax valve, plus tools that I will probably only use once, is there any way that this could be passable? I really tightened up one side of the circuit.
Question 2: Since the Fitzall TCC valve pretty much blocks the isolator valve inward, is there any way that using some kind of sealant on it could be feasible?
Or what if a groove was cut into the Isolator valve, and an O-ring installed?
How do the pros out there handle this situation?
Maybe Maroon or Vortec can school my *** on this.
Last edited by dixiebandit69; May 26, 2022 at 05:37 PM. Reason: Spelling. I sounded like Mario for a second.
or when flipping the stock valve setup around for "on/off" lockup
it will just leak the TCC PWM signal oil to exhaust. It's an orificed and pwm controlled leak so it won't be enough volume to matter at all.
I used some Caterpillar No. 46 hydraulic oil for cutting fluid. It went pretty easy.
Results: 21.5" hg, a solid 10" improvement!
If you had told me ten years ago that I would be getting excited about vacuum readings, 1) I wouldn't have known what the hell you were even talking about, and 2) I wouldn't have believed you.
I used some Caterpillar No. 46 hydraulic oil for cutting fluid. It went pretty easy.
Results: 21.5" hg, a solid 10" improvement!
If you had told me ten years ago that I would be getting excited about vacuum readings, 1) I wouldn't have known what the hell you were even talking about, and 2) I wouldn't have believed you.









