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Anybody know where to get this fitting...

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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 07:09 PM
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Default Anybody know where to get this fitting...

...at a reasonable cost?

It is a GM 3/8" quick disconnect tubing on 1 end and a 6AN 37-degree (JIC) male on the other end...

I'm looking for at least 4...

Thanks.


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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 10:12 PM
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Here you GO!
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 11:05 PM
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Thanks!

BUT I posted that item a couple days ago, it was on ebay for that price.

That's why I bolded the word "reasonable" in my original post... but thanks for trying, I appreciate it.
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Old Mar 19, 2022 | 03:43 AM
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Napa had them at one time,... But I don't know the price these days.
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Old Mar 19, 2022 | 04:02 AM
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http://Russell 640940 -6 AN Male to ...2K9FDHEBTED21S
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Old Mar 19, 2022 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
That was a bad link but I did a search on the Russell #... close but no cigar... that's the same as the fitting I asked about a few threads down asking if the EFI fitting would work...
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 08:49 AM
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what exactly would you consider reasonable?
$15 seems pretty good to me

it's a low demand, short run fitting that is exceptionally specific/specialized

$30 for you to get a pair of fittings to do some lazy plumbing sounds like a deal to me

would be better to pull the fittings out of the rad or trans and replace that instead of keeping the push connect
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MaroonMonsterLS1
what exactly would you consider reasonable?
$15 seems pretty good to me

it's a low demand, short run fitting that is exceptionally specific/specialized

$30 for you to get a pair of fittings to do some lazy plumbing sounds like a deal to me

would be better to pull the fittings out of the rad or trans and replace that instead of keeping the push connect
The EFI fittings that look similar are about half that cost-- TWO for $14. THAT is a reasonable cost. A DEAL to me would be 6/$40.00 $39.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ork-trans.html

BY THE WAY, what is the thread size for the radiator? This car/suv had top/bottom tanks, not side tanks, if it matters. Thanks

Last edited by matermark; Mar 21, 2022 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by matermark
...at a reasonable cost?

It is a GM 3/8" quick disconnect tubing on 1 end and a 6AN 37-degree (JIC) male on the other end...

I'm looking for at least 4...

Thanks.

If you are going to use a fitting like this, then why not just use the factory cooling lines? I don't see this fitting as an upgrade.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 02:18 PM
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@MaroonMonsterLS1 Will the 6AN male x 1/4" NPS transmission fittings fit in the radiator if I removed the push-in female fittings? Thanks.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 03:30 PM
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it's just a cooler fitting...take it out...use your thread pitch gauges...determine what fitting you need
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bbond105
If you are going to use a fitting like this, then why not just use the factory cooling lines? I don't see this fitting as an upgrade.
I already bought all 4 AC-Delco steel lines but I think running hoses would be much easier. If I put on stock lines I'd have to blow out the stock cooler in the rad too. I was thinking of bypassing the rad cooler to make things easier to get the vehicle inspected and to make it semi-drivable, with an external cooler. The vehicle was run, idling on a lift for a good 10-15+ minutes, to find the leak--a steady leak. Then it was driven home a block or so w/o 3rd/4th. The shop wanted $120 (if I remember correctly) to cut the line and put in a section of hose, or was it a compression fitting and piece of line? Crazy...
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 06:34 PM
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if you want reasonable don't use AN stuff. this seems like a classic case of ”i've already bought this and i HAVE to use it”
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 06:45 PM
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If you are thinking you are going to use an external trans cooler and not plumb in the radiator cooler just use AN fittings and flare the steel lines. That is what I did on my LS swap. Worked very nicely
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by matermark
I already bought all 4 AC-Delco steel lines but I think running hoses would be much easier. If I put on stock lines I'd have to blow out the stock cooler in the rad too. I was thinking of bypassing the rad cooler to make things easier to get the vehicle inspected and to make it semi-drivable, with an external cooler. The vehicle was run, idling on a lift for a good 10-15+ minutes, to find the leak--a steady leak. Then it was driven home a block or so w/o 3rd/4th. The shop wanted $120 (if I remember correctly) to cut the line and put in a section of hose, or was it a compression fitting and piece of line? Crazy...
That fitting that you are asking about I don't think it will fit an after market cooler.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by tayto
if you want reasonable don't use AN stuff. this seems like a classic case of ”i've already bought this and i HAVE to use it”
I only have around $32 invested in two 6AN to 1/4" NPS (straight threads) trans fittings, 7ft of PTFE SS hose, and two 45-degree, two 180-degree, one 90-degree and one straight red & blue AN SS hose ends. The four GM lines were ~$80-$90, maybe more, I'd have to look. Plus I heard some labor costs $400-$600.00 to install the GM lines.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jetech
If you are thinking you are going to use an external trans cooler and not plumb in the radiator cooler just use AN fittings and flare the steel lines. That is what I did on my LS swap. Worked very nicely
The stock lines are leaking from a rust hole in one line, I jumped on the interstate for about a 3 or 4 mile drive to DMV and lost 3rd & 4th--when I arrived I checked the fluid and dipstick was dry/fluid empty/off the dipstick. Next driveway was Checker's and I bought a gallon of ATF and made it home, around the corner from me was a repair shop, they put it on the lift and it was a steady leak. I drove it home and that was the last time I started it, about a year ago. (it's my only vehicle that was licensed/insured/on the road.) Been getting EVERYTHING delivered--groceries, auto parts, meds.

Did you use 45* or 37* flare tool? I had a really nice 37* tool 20+ years ago, the dies were on wheels you turned to the size you want, I got out of the automotive biz around 1999-2000 & got rid of most of my tools or they were stolen or confiscated, not sure what I still have... very few... I couldn't walk/stand for a year & I lost everything. I did use Earl's blue nuts & sleeves on 3/4/6/8/10 tubing back then, Aeroquip 3AN steel hose ends, black oxide steel compression fittings too. I was the only one back in the 1980's-1990's using/making PTFE SS lines in the area with industrial fittings and hose ends.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bbond105
That fitting that you are asking about I don't think it will fit an after market cooler.
You are right if you are talking about the quick-disconnect... BUT it would fit in the case fittings getting the AN fitting out of the dark another inch or so closer to me, as well as the two in the radiator. Then I can use 6AN from the trans to the radiator if I just don't replace them in the tank like Maroon suggested. Otherwise I'd need a fitting of some kind in the radiator anyway--the quick-connect to AN male at ~$7 would be similar price to straight thread pipe male to GM QC female anyway. It's already in 4 locations (the QC female NPS) and may be easier to remove the QC male tube from them using the round tool that holds the clip open than it is to unscrew the fittings.




As for the remote/external cooler, I'm still trying to find a big cooler with threaded fittings that has a thermal bypass. I think one company uses a principle that the ATF is restricted until it is hot and the viscosity thins up enough to run thru the plates more, or more quickly. TruCool has 2 of the stacked plate coolers that use inverted flare threads, LPD4711 is 3/8 inverted flare.
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