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Old May 26, 2022 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by atlsoldier27
@mrvedit i got a transgo .500 boost valve from a local builder. Got it out in a pressure is up, but not up to where I’ve seen people state. Reverse is low until I press on the gas and it shoots up past 90PSI for sure. The delayed engagement that I was feeling on take off is shorter. But I still have the fluctuation in RPM in 4th gear. Could this be the PR valve above the boost valve?
Sounds like we are making progress with the correct boost valve.
Hopefully one of the more experienced trans builders will chime in here to answer your question as it is outside of my limited experience.

If your trans pressure gauge is still hooked up and your trans connector is easily reachable, it might be useful to know what your pressures are in Park, Reverse and Drive with the connector off.

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Old May 26, 2022 | 03:01 PM
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@mrvedit alright man. I appreciate your help. I’ll post those finding when I get that done.
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Old May 27, 2022 | 07:03 PM
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@mrvedit UPDATE:

line pressure with main unplugged is as follows.
Park from start goes up to 180 then settles at 118-120.
Reverse is 110-113.
Drive is 100.

I find this interesting because I had read before that if main was unplugged and pressure was high, then it was an electronic issue. I tried this before the boost valve and the line pressure was lower than that with it plugged in.
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Old May 28, 2022 | 06:18 PM
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I missed where you posted what line pressure is at 2000 rpm. When did this problem start, was is after the last converter change or immediately after rebuild? I am thinking that something is wrong in the pump, (like a stuck pump slide) and that an autopsy is going to be needed to find the problem.

When unplugging the harness on the side of the trans you remove all electronic control of line pressure. With pug undone you will see the max pressure that the pump is able to produce with all systems install correctly. These pressures should be 170psi or higher at 1500 to 2000 rpm. For some reason, with is not electronic your pressures are way too low. Imo it is time to take it back apart.
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Old May 28, 2022 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bbond105
I missed where you posted what line pressure is at 2000 rpm. When did this problem start, was is after the last converter change or immediately after rebuild? I am thinking that something is wrong in the pump, (like a stuck pump slide) and that an autopsy is going to be needed to find the problem.

When unplugging the harness on the side of the trans you remove all electronic control of line pressure. With pug undone you will see the max pressure that the pump is able to produce with all systems install correctly. These pressures should be 170psi or higher at 1500 to 2000 rpm. For some reason, with is not electronic your pressures are way too low. Imo it is time to take it back apart.
this started right after the rebuild. I was told the pump was pressure tested and everything was fine. He had the equator do so and he shown me. But the boost valve was wrong, so I’m not sure what else could be wrong. But like I stated in the original thread. He isn’t accepting any work. I don’t even know where to begin with it.
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Old May 28, 2022 | 07:12 PM
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@bbond105

i would also like to add what I found at 1500 to 2000 rpm with main unplugged

park: 240 max out
reverse: 250
drive: 240
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Old May 28, 2022 | 07:43 PM
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Default Video of a test drive after boost valve.

This was done after clearing memory with battery drain and clearing codes. It was recorded on my phone and not sure how it will look from YouTube.

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Old May 28, 2022 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by atlsoldier27
@bbond105

i would also like to add what I found at 1500 to 2000 rpm with main unplugged

park: 240 max out
reverse: 250
drive: 240
That helps a lot!! The pump is making good pressure.

Put the trans in drive and do a power brake up to 2000rpm for a few seconds, just long enough to see what the highest line pressure reading is. If the pressures are low and we now that know that the pump is capable of making the proper pressures we need to determined why it is low when the trans is plugged up. I saw where you said you replaced all solenoids but I want to verify if the EPC solenoid was replaced.

Do you have a scanner or HP Tuners that will allow you to control the EPC solenoid? If so decrease the amps to the EPC solenoid while monitoring the line pressure. Do this above idle rpm. The less amps to the EPC the higher the line pressure, the more amps to the EPC the lower the line pressure.

Last edited by bbond105; May 28, 2022 at 08:14 PM.
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Old May 28, 2022 | 08:16 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bbond105
That helps a lot!! The pump is making good pressure.

Put the trans in drive and do a power brake up to 2000rpm for a few seconds, just long enough to see what the highest line pressure reading is. If the pressures are low and we now that know that the pump is capable of making the proper pressures we need to determined why it is low when the trans is plugged up. I saw where you said you replaced all solenoids but I want to verify if the EPC solenoid was replaced.

Do you have a scanner or HP Tuners that will allow you to control the EPC solenoid? If so decrease the amps to the EPC solenoid while monitoring the line pressure. Do this above idle rpm. The less amps to the EPC the higher the line pressure, the more amps to the EPC the lower the line pressure.
I do not have a tuner or scanner. I did replace the EPC. Also tried turning it up 1/4 of a turn before the boost valve, but that has been turned back down.
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Old May 28, 2022 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bbond105
That helps a lot!! The pump is making good pressure.

Put the trans in drive and do a power brake up to 2000rpm for a few seconds, just long enough to see what the highest line pressure reading is. If the pressures are low and we now that know that the pump is capable of making the proper pressures we need to determined why it is low when the trans is plugged up. I saw where you said you replaced all solenoids but I want to verify if the EPC solenoid was replaced.

Do you have a scanner or HP Tuners that will allow you to control the EPC solenoid? If so decrease the amps to the EPC solenoid while monitoring the line pressure. Do this above idle rpm. The less amps to the EPC the higher the line pressure, the more amps to the EPC the lower the line pressure.
Can you preform this test?
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Old May 29, 2022 | 04:50 AM
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@bbond105

Do you mean foot on break and pressing gas? I can do that no problem.

as far as controlling the EPC, I’m not sure how else to do it without a scanner.
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Old May 29, 2022 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by atlsoldier27
@bbond105

Do you mean foot on break and pressing gas? I can do that no problem.

as far as controlling the EPC, I’m not sure how else to do it without a scanner.
Yes, foot on break and pressing gas. Do you have a scanner or a code reader? Most scanners will allow you to manually control some of the PCM out puts. By doing this it will verify if the PCM is able to control the EPC.
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Old May 29, 2022 | 11:14 AM
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@bbond105

I don't have a scanner, just a reader that is Bluetooth to my iPad. Basic diagnostics only. I have asked around to a few people that may have one, but no one has one that reads transmission data.

I will record the pressures when I get home from work this evening around 7:30 pm eastern time.
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Old May 29, 2022 | 06:39 PM
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@bbond105 pressures are above 150psi at 1500 RPM when foot is on the break.
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Old May 29, 2022 | 06:56 PM
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Those pressures don't look too bad. You really need a scanner to go any further. A defective TPS, MAF or MAP sensor could be causing the low pressures while driving.
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Old May 29, 2022 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by bbond105
Those pressures don't look too bad. You really need a scanner to go any further. A defective TPS, MAF or MAP sensor could be causing the low pressures while driving.
I have replaced TPS and cleaned MAF sensor.

im still trying to find someone that can scan for me.

I appreciate your help man.
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Old May 29, 2022 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by atlsoldier27
I have replaced TPS and cleaned MAF sensor.

im still trying to find someone that can scan for me.

I appreciate your help man.
Your welcome.
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Old May 30, 2022 | 12:22 PM
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Can anyone here help me understand two things.

1. How does the torque converter apply when I press on the gas?
2. Does TCC valve have anything to do with that?


im wondering if what I’m feeling at take off is a leak in that regard. If another valve is worn out or wrong.

thanks to everyone for their help that has gotten me this far, and thanks in advance to anyone else who chimes in.
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Old May 30, 2022 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by atlsoldier27
Can anyone here help me understand two things.

1. How does the torque converter apply when I press on the gas?
The Torque Converter Clutch should only apply in 3rd and 4th gears at speeds above 35mph. A quick way to test engagement is to lightly apply brake pedal just enough to turn on the brake lights but not engaging the brakes. This should cause the TCC to not apply while applying the brake pedal or if applied unlock the clutch.
2. Does TCC valve have anything to do with that?
The TCC valve has a lot to do with TCC apply. Usually a worn TCC valve will not let the TCC apply.


im wondering if what I’m feeling at take off is a leak in that regard. If another valve is worn out or wrong.
More info on what you are feeling would be useful. Like what gear do you feel your issue in, speed, and throttle position.
thanks to everyone for their help that has gotten me this far, and thanks in advance to anyone else who chimes in.
See answers in red.
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Old May 30, 2022 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bbond105
See answers in red.

so the two main issues now are the fluctuations in RPM when at speeds of 45-60 MPH. Seems as if torque converter is slipping or something. I’m not sure if that is the case.

the other issue is when applying gas from start, the pressure and RPM raises, but the transmission hardly reacts until it reaches over 90PSI, at which I feel it somewhat jump into gear. As if a band or something is not being applied correctly.
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