4l60 running hot then puked fluid
I don't know much about automatic transmissions. I have a newly built L33/4l60 with a 2800 Circle D converter to match the BTR cam. I've only put 26 miles on it, and i was monitoring the trans temp which reached 205 during a 6 mile drive. I came home and parked the car for an hour or so, when I pulled the trans dipstick it started puking fluid like a volcano. The fluid looked normal, it wasn't bubbly or frothy. I started car back up, put in gears, and pulled the dipstick again to see if fluid dropped back into the converter, which it did.
I'm assuming Im going to need additional trans cooler with a fan, but my question is whether the fluid was pouring out of the dipstick because of the high temp or if there's something else going on. All input appreciated. Thanks.
I'm assuming Im going to need additional trans cooler with a fan, but my question is whether the fluid was pouring out of the dipstick because of the high temp or if there's something else going on. All input appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by Elthirty3; Jun 6, 2022 at 05:44 PM.
I can’t say that the fluid level was correct and I tried to look back at receipts to see how many quarts they specified. No luck.
Because it’s a swap - had to use a Lokar dipstick, and after it puked I only ran it for a bit to see if the fluid would drop, which it did. Probably lost 1/4 cup?
I didn’t want to drive it again to be honest. I checked the dipstick while cold, which reads Full but the lokar dipstick only has LOW/ Full , there is no hot/cold reading.
The day I drove it- mild cruising and about 80 degrees here… probably 20 minute drive. Trans temp read 204 and engine temp was probably 190ish.
Cant confirm whether the vent tube is clogged- will have to get under the car- not even sure the shop installed a vent hose.
The lokar dipstick is 28” from base to the tip.
Because it’s a swap - had to use a Lokar dipstick, and after it puked I only ran it for a bit to see if the fluid would drop, which it did. Probably lost 1/4 cup?
I didn’t want to drive it again to be honest. I checked the dipstick while cold, which reads Full but the lokar dipstick only has LOW/ Full , there is no hot/cold reading.
The day I drove it- mild cruising and about 80 degrees here… probably 20 minute drive. Trans temp read 204 and engine temp was probably 190ish.
Cant confirm whether the vent tube is clogged- will have to get under the car- not even sure the shop installed a vent hose.
The lokar dipstick is 28” from base to the tip.
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The way to check the dipstick is to pull the pan and make sure the full mark is just above the pan gasket.
If you pull the dipstick tube, and put the dipstick in it, you can measure the length and compare to where its
placed in the trans.
I am currently awaiting a rebuild due to the dipstick on mine being way off to the low side.
Overfull is basically as bad as under-full just does harm in a different way YMMV.
If you pull the dipstick tube, and put the dipstick in it, you can measure the length and compare to where its
placed in the trans.
I am currently awaiting a rebuild due to the dipstick on mine being way off to the low side.
Overfull is basically as bad as under-full just does harm in a different way YMMV.
The length of the dipstick is meaningless. Its the location of the "Full Hot" mark in relation to the bottom of the dipstick tube which matters. IIRC we once had this documented with a picture and/or measurement.
Perhaps one of the builders who has an OEM dipstick could insert it into an OEM dipstick tube and show up where the "Full Hot" mark is in relation to the bottom of the tube, ideally with a tape measure.
(Technically the critical distance is not the to bottom of the tube, but to the bulge in the tube where it sits in the grommet.)
Of course, the BEST way is as pdxmotorhead explained, to drop the pan and check that the "Full Hot" mark is at the bottom of the trans case where the pan gasket goes.
Perhaps one of the builders who has an OEM dipstick could insert it into an OEM dipstick tube and show up where the "Full Hot" mark is in relation to the bottom of the tube, ideally with a tape measure.
(Technically the critical distance is not the to bottom of the tube, but to the bulge in the tube where it sits in the grommet.)
Of course, the BEST way is as pdxmotorhead explained, to drop the pan and check that the "Full Hot" mark is at the bottom of the trans case where the pan gasket goes.
On the lokar stick - does low/full equate to : cold/hot?
Sorry if that’s a dumb ?
Sorry if that’s a dumb ?
The length of the dipstick is meaningless. Its the location of the "Full Hot" mark in relation to the bottom of the dipstick tube which matters. IIRC we once had this documented with a picture and/or measurement.
Perhaps one of the builders who has an OEM dipstick could insert it into an OEM dipstick tube and show up where the "Full Hot" mark is in relation to the bottom of the tube, ideally with a tape measure.
(Technically the critical distance is not the to bottom of the tube, but to the bulge in the tube where it sits in the grommet.)
Of course, the BEST way is as pdxmotorhead explained, to drop the pan and check that the "Full Hot" mark is at the bottom of the trans case where the pan gasket goes.
Perhaps one of the builders who has an OEM dipstick could insert it into an OEM dipstick tube and show up where the "Full Hot" mark is in relation to the bottom of the tube, ideally with a tape measure.
(Technically the critical distance is not the to bottom of the tube, but to the bulge in the tube where it sits in the grommet.)
Of course, the BEST way is as pdxmotorhead explained, to drop the pan and check that the "Full Hot" mark is at the bottom of the trans case where the pan gasket goes.
Noted on Mr Vedit. Thanks everyone for their help.
Last edited by Elthirty3; Jun 7, 2022 at 02:02 PM.











