4l60e swap issues
If you feel nothing with tapping the pedal. You will need to see if it is being commanded on with a scan tool. I have had several customers call back and ask about and extra shift about 45-50. It is usually caused by fixing a bad TCC solenoid they did not know they had. Your issue is likely to be just the opposite. You have a bad TCC on/off solenoid now and the old unit it was still good,
It's highly likely to be a fairly simple fix. Once diagnosed a simple universal solenoid change could fix it.
I like the Fitzall K77929U by TeckPak
https://www.teckpak-fitzall.com/spgm.cfm?id=K77929U
If you feel nothing with tapping the pedal. You will need to see if it is being commanded on with a scan tool. I have had several customers call back and ask about and extra shift about 45-50. It is usually caused by fixing a bad TCC solenoid they did not know they had. Your issue is likely to be just the opposite. You have a bad TCC on/off solenoid now and the old unit it was still good,
It's highly likely to be a fairly simple fix. Once diagnosed a simple universal solenoid change could fix it.
I like the Fitzall K77929U by TeckPak
https://www.teckpak-fitzall.com/spgm.cfm?id=K77929U
thanks for the reply. I tried unlocking and didn’t notice any differences. Also checked and there were no transmission codes. I’m wondering ,because the previous transmission was rebuilt ,if it had different gear ratios. Could something like this be the cause?
Let me simplify what Tranzman said:
When your torque converter locks, it drops the engine RPM by about 200-300 RPM. Since you are reporting 200-300 higher RPM, he has deduced that your torque converter is not locking. This could be due to a (usually) relatively minor transmission problem as he explained. IIRC, if the O-ring on the input shaft was bad or missing, there won't be enough pressure to lock the torque converter.
Let me simplify what Tranzman said:
When your torque converter locks, it drops the engine RPM by about 200-300 RPM. Since you are reporting 200-300 higher RPM, he has deduced that your torque converter is not locking. This could be due to a (usually) relatively minor transmission problem as he explained. IIRC, if the O-ring on the input shaft was bad or missing, there won't be enough pressure to lock the torque converter.
You can drive forever in M3 range without lock up.
1st) I would verify the apply command and see if the PCM is requesting lock-up. If it is you will need to test and repair as required. It is possible for it to have a bad o-ring on the input shaft. It could be as simple as a bad TCC solenoid or a solenoid o-ring
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You can drive forever in M3 range without lock up.
1st) I would verify the apply command and see if the PCM is requesting lock-up. If it is you will need to test and repair as required. It is possible for it to have a bad o-ring on the input shaft. It could be as simple as a bad TCC solenoid or a solenoid o-ring
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Now you modify things & can increase your cooler flow to overcome that, but that is a whole other Oprah show.
How the Flow changes comparing Lock-Up to Un-Locked operation...
As well as how the TCC Apply Valve-Train can be modified (For example TransGo Valve-Train for Non-Lock-Up Torque-Converters) when using a Torque-Converter that does not have a Lock-Up Clutch... but can still have the Cooler Circuit maintain acceptable Temps.
How the Flow changes comparing Lock-Up to Un-Locked operation...
As well as how the TCC Apply Valve-Train can be modified (For example TransGo Valve-Train for Non-Lock-Up Torque-Converters) when using a Torque-Converter that does not have a Lock-Up Clutch... but can still have the Cooler Circuit maintain acceptable Temps.

I use my test box for that. It can be pined out with a suitable test connector and pins "E" & "T" of the 20 pin case connector. pin "E" is +12V and pin "T" is grounded by the PCM. I have had PCM's that are bad and will not unlock once commanded. We tested that by cutting the wire and running it to a ground through a toggle switch. The toggle switch allowed us to turn it on or off manually. When we hooked the wire back the issue returned. The PCM would show that TCC was released but actually did not. A new PCM fixed it.
It may be just as easy to replace the solenoid for $35-$40 (solenoid, pan gasket and some fluid). You should be able to re-use most of the fluid if drained to a clean pan & ran through a paint strainer.
All this is based on that you believe that the other transmission had TCC.
But it would be a larger project than I have time for right now.
I think I will make it the next project that I will do...
But also, all you guys have access to a free Online Manual in the Hyperlink below:
Hyperlink
Many of you are more than capable of doing this also!
Last edited by vorteciroc; Apr 1, 2023 at 09:37 PM.










