OK so recap because this has been so dragged out.

What's been done- bonded pistons, raybestos clutch pack, sunshell, transgo seperator plate, new solenoids, torlong check *****, sonnax performance pack and 2-3 shift valve, along with new gaskets and seals.

What I'm thinking to get to finish this pig-one friction (missing from first kit just ordered a whole second kit because time), new drum, bw he band, raybestos steals unless somebody has a better suggestion, have the input shaft resealed by a shop, new seals just to play it safe, and thinking of getting the anti abuse valves (might not be the name just off the top of my head), and really contemplating the circle d 3600.

If anyone has any thing to add let me know. I don't know if there's something I should do to the pump for example while it's out or anything else recommend for the trans/vb. I love this car so I want it for a very long time.

 

Okay so I've been doing more reading and I don't know if it this point I'm over thinking but looks like I got the gpz raybestos and I do see people talk good about that. I also see a lot of people, some of you in here included, talk about the borg warner HE friction and a lot of talk about not running a 6 friction setup. Lots of mentions the 65/70? Runs 7 on their rebuild kits and a lot of people saying 8 frictions minimum. I know frank mentioned when you run thinner friction/steels it has its own downsides as far as heat goes but 7/8 almost seems like the middle ground between 6 and some people saying they run 10.

 

Okay so I think the purchase list is going to be
7-.080 bw he clutches
6-.076 steels
1-.220 Apply plate
1-.193 backing plate
1-Ww he band
1-reverse drum
​Will give .030_.035 clearance

I'm hesitant on the 3600 because i forgot at that point i have to run the aux cooler and get a tune. If anyone has anything to add before I do the order tomorrow it would be much appreciated

 

Those clutches and steels may not give you the clearances that you are looking for. I would recommend getting a few extra clutches and steels of different thicknesses, so that you can mix and match to achieve your desired clearance.

I would also add a Sonnax 77787-02K Extra Long Servo Pin to your parts list.

As for the converter you may be able to get by without a tune it will depend on if the check engine light comes on because of ghost misfires. You most likely will be okay without a cooler until summertime. Don't buy a cheap TCI or B&M converter, when it comes to performance converters you get what you pay for.

 

• 0.223" apply plate
• (7) 0.065" clutch
• (6) 0.095" steel
• 0.192" backing plate
• 0.093" snap ring

This should get you to about .025-.035 clearance

BW HE frictions & band are fine, don't over think it. the abuse valves PLUGS are all you should need. should really get the valve body vac tested.

 

I had screen shot that setup last night from one of the many threads I was on, I wish I would have got the name in there now or even the thread to reference but lots of people were in there saying they do a, b, or c. It was a good read.

Oh I actually have that from when the no 2 4 was thought to be the servo not the band off the pin so good there.

Oh okay so that's where I don't know about converters enough. I thought where it was a "loose converter" it would just drive like a dog till the shift points and all that good stuff was tuned to function with it. And also good to know on the cooler. While it's out I figure this is the best time to also add a temp gauge.

 

dang thats tight from some ive been seeing, seen a lot of 0.030 recommendations but im also in for a listen.
Oh over Thinking is my super power lol especially with how much of a disaster this has been.

Plugs got it!

 

A good quality converter will not feel so loose at lower RPMs.

 

Bear in mind the clearance you see in build will not end up being the final real clearance , After a few 220 PSI applies it opens up a good bit . After a dyno run and tearing apart for some issue I have seen its opened up .010 to as much as .030 depending on type clutch used . The paper tans seem to open up the most.

 

my finger has been hovering over a ss3600 or circle d all day

 

Oh okay so I guess that's probably part of the reason so many people laugh at the gm recommended im ditching the raybestos tan ones for bw he. Just gonna figure out my steels and clutches thickness.

 

The Tan frictions are good in non-shifting clutch packs, (Low Reverse, Reverse and Forward).

Yank and Circle D are good top of the line converters.

 

Agree in static packs like fwd. low/rev. reverse input really any friction should will do the job IMO

 

Less than 500 miles

 

Honestly probably less than 300. Only drove it a couple weeks missing 2 and 4 and it's been on Jack's for a few weeks.

 

Shifting 1-3 is reallu really hard on the 3-4 pack

 

figured it was something like that or the heat. I'm currently stacking my pack now and here's what I've got.
Backing 0.157
7- .080 bw he friction
6- .076 kolene steels
apply .21
Oem snap
dry clearance is .065

I have two kolene .060 and two .062 bw frictions set aside also. When I remove one clutch and steel and add the two other steel and friction then its to tight. Seems ideal would be to remove another .030 from the clearance so should look into a thicker steel or friction and play around with the extras I have to dial it in

 

So with adding 1 .107 steel in place of the .076 steel I should be around .034 dry clearance.

 

.034 is right where you want it. It will open up a little after a few shifts.

 

Okay steel came in and it's about .039 which should probably be fine enough. I have a circle d 3600 about to order just want to verify its a 258mm I should be after. Pretty sure it is but just to want to run it by you smart folk.

Also about to order new bolts for the bell housing to case, new valve body bolt i broke, and run the trans cooler "dope style", plus all the other odds and ends while i wait for the converter to come in. We got obliterated by snow the last few days and with warmer weather coming i wanna finish this thing off soon.