Everything is detached from the transmission and I know what to do from here fortunately/unfortunately. Guess only thing I'm unsure on is if I can reuse the seal on the pump and the gasket between the pump and case. Guess this time I can check pin travel also

 

Just got it out again but have to run to autozone because par the course this has gone, I ruined the internal wire harness.

 

i feel for ya i truely do

 

oh it gets better. Stripped the final bell housing bolt as well and went to go drill the head off but realized my drill was at my other property. Not the biggest deal I'm kinda use to all this by now and at least I'm learning which is a plus.

 

I have been able to chisel the bell housing bolts out. After they get about half a turn on them the will come out with the bit even though they are stripped. Takes a pounding to get enough torque on them with a chisel but it did finally work. I was just about to quit when they started to turn. Just an option if you have one.

 

A little heat on the trans case were the bolts thread in helps a lot.

 

I prefer the Blue Point extractor set. I bought it about ten years ago, and never looked back. Worth every penny.

 

Oh dang wasn't expecting so many replies. I drilled the head off, got to the pump, yup frank called it the band wasn't on the pin and from fighting it on I'm positive I didn't the first time. Doooh. But it's laughable at this point because the paper gasket behind the pump is ripped and don't have any local.

 

if you have a steady hand and a hole punch , It s possible to make one. I did it once with a 350 thats just had to go years ago, worked fine.

 

I am gonna knock on wood before I type this, But I bought some cheap T50P bits on amazon and these things are amazing .

Amazon

Amazon

I initially bought them cause I was looking for inexpensive bits to send to customers as I dont ship with bells on the late units so I bought a couple these and not wanting to send them junk I used them first for a bit.
But to my amazement they are indestructable. I use them with an earthquake 1/2 inch impact and my compressor runs at 175 PSI . They fit just a bit tighter than the snapon that i was using , But these take a lickin and keep on ticking , to date since using them not one stripped bell bolt and that pretty amazing since I mostly am tearing down cores to build. I put them in place give just a little tap with hammer as I said they fit a little tighter, Then put the earthquake to them and hit the botton and boom out they come every time and looking at them not the first sign of twisting or wear where they hit the bolt, in fact a quick wipe and they look like never used. I send one with every bolt on bell unit I ship to people.
I know probably useless info but wanted to say they are amazing.
No heat nothing just zip and out they come.

 

You've been here this whole journey so I think you'd agree that I shouldn't test my luck and should just buy the gasket and wait a couple days for the right one to come lol. Hey I actually bought that exact 50p and it worked great. My thinking was that since they had already been out recently I wouldn't have to worry about them stripping out but here we are. This whole process has been a good thing in my opinion because I've learned a lot here and from doing it. My ego has taken a bit of a hit so I'm already thinking to buy a second vehicle with a burnt 60e because I'm confident I could do this faster because it's really not hard I've just made a whole lot of rookie mistakes. I still would like to end this with a recap for the next person or a whole new thread just because I feel like I've stumbled into so many problems.

 

+1 for the Amazon bit! Had my doubts but it has busted, broken, and stripped many a stuck bellhousing bolt and so far it is unblemished. I wonder if the security bits are as good. I haven't run into any of these bolts yet so knock on wood.

 

Yes I was blown away . they have oputlasted and out performed both the bits I have gotten from snapon and mac at less than half the cost and easy to get mac n snapon always have to order one. If you want one from amazone its here the next day , same day in some cities.

 

First, you need the T50 "Plus" bit; a simple T50 just isn't going to work.
Next, put it on a powerful impact wrench, something that can remove lugnuts.
Next, position the trans so that you can press like 100 lbs of your weight into the bit so that it doesn't lift and strip the bolt.
Last, let her rip.

NOTE: Starting around 2010 the 4L60E/65E/70E use different bell housing bolts that require a 4-sided "Mortorq" bit. https://atracom.blob.core.windows.ne...ly/atb1334.pdf

 

Hypothetically speaking if one didn't use a torque wrench and snapped a bolt off in the valve body could a replacement be bought at home depot. Asking a for a friend. I'm dumb.

 

So I think maybe it's a blessing. There was a lot of clutch material in the pan and I was just going to throw it back in. I don't know if where I was driving it without 2 and 4 if it was over heating or if maybe the band was partially applying. I think it's better if I open it back up, inspect the clutches, get a wide band, and anything maybe you guys recommend. I'm even thinking to get a new drum or I've seen on here something about the shaft not sealing and having a machine shop press it out and reseal it or something. Just don't want to do this again in 3 months. Thoughts?

One more question. I used the raebestos which I believe was 6 clutches on but i believe ive seen people use a pack with more but are thinner. What's the better route?

 

Yes lol. but does need to have a shoulder or washer, grade 8 preferred or even grade 10 if you like. Never broken one but have had to replace a few previoulsy stripped by someone with an over zealous impact the installed with argh ,

 

Which clutch set up you use depends alot on what you are trying to do. The 6 friction is going to have better heat disipation but less surface holding area. Then you get into 7 -8 even 9 friction sets but thinner fictions and steels need quicker apply at all throttles to keep heat to a minimum .. Very important to all the sets is that your apply and backing plates are flat. (new stock is actually generally not flat has been my experience) you can accomplish flat with a stone thats large enough with enough time , Lathe is the fast way. Or buy the sonnax plates they are as far as i can tell flat when checks thgus far.

I would for a moderate powered street car stay with 6-7 with available apply and back plates.

New drum a must with wide band unless drum real straight to start with a a quick couple thousands cut on a lathe . But cheap as they are just get a new one on amazon.

Suggest the sonnax pin for the servo, The stock pin with the older cases leaks a good bit in my test a rather considerable leak so worth the trouble actually been looking for a solid alternative to the split rings they come with.

Last yes you may have damaged drum and band as even with the band off the lug the pin could travel far enough to press band against drum slipping and burning at that point.

 

Well I already have the old clutch pack that's only missing one 3-4 clutch so that would be a cheap fix. Buy new steels (reused my old ones), wide band, new drum, dont know what way to go on the forward drum from what I've read, and with the mass amount of OT I've worked I could get a 3600 circle d TQ...also I don't know if it's over kill but maybe even upgrade to the super hold servo. Eventually I want to upgrade heads and cam and see good things about either the 214 or 224? Cam and don't want to be limited because a i6 tq or a weak trans.

 

wide band and super servo not necessary. borg band and a corvette servo is fine. fix the internal leaks and make sure the valve body is in good shape