No just not installing the auxiliary cooler. I filled it and drove it. No 2nd or 4th so I'm hoping it's just the servo and also my exhaust is making noise so hopefully I can fix that also.

 

If using a stockish stall torque converter, you will be fine just using the stock cooler if it is not restricted. With a higher stall converter, you will most likely be fine since it is wintertime, but as temps start to warm up it would be a good idea to increase the cooling capacity.

 

I've read its somewhere in the 2500-2800 range. I will definitely add it soon but now the servo is the new concern. I ordered a new kit to reseal the whole servo which will be here tomorrow. Gonna start disassembly today after work. At least I got third back so that's a good sign. Plus with the torque converter and shift kit the little drive I did it felt real nice.

 

With that small of a stall unless you live in a hot climate, I wouldn't worry about adding a cooler, but it wouldn't hurt. Did you check the servo pin travel during the rebuild?

 

Well the last bit of the servo will not come out with the trans in the car, I even had it completely hanging and it's very close but no cigar. I'm going to slightly dent in the floor pan. So I had bought the extra servo because I anticipated finding a junk yard replacement so I'm not sure at this point which one is in the car and which is lying on the floor. What I did notice though is the one in the car has rubber seals, the one out of the car has scarf cut hard(ish) seals. The new seal kit I ordered looks like the hard ones, and I just found a bag of the same scarf cut seals from the rebuild kit. So does the one in the car have the wrong ones and if so could that be my problem?

 

I did not check it no because I didn't see a need (stupid I know) because I assumed (I know the saying) that since the servo was fine before and it's not a performance band or anything that nothing should change with the servo pin.

 

If I've learned anything about these transmissions over the last few years, is that clearances make all the difference.

The band clearance was probably way out of specifications before you even tore into this thing, but now, with all the changes, you are seeing the results.

Measure the servo pin clearance, if possible (I know it can be hard on an F-body). It's totally possible to make a "worn" band/ drum assembly work if you just tighten the clearance by either using the long Sonnax pin (and grinding it to fit) or welding the tip of the servo pin, and grinding it to fit.

 

To remove the servo from a trans in a F-Body you will have to remove the crossmember and let the trans hang down in the back. Then remove the servo one piece at a time, cover, 4th piston, pin, and so on. Which 2nd apply servo is installed in the trans? Different brand servos use different types of sealing rings.

 

That's exactly what I did and it's very close but the pin still catches just enough to not let it come out. So it's either oem in it or Phoenix transmission. I was watching build videos last night and they all used teflon seals and the one in the car is definitely rubber. Also to add to the list of mix ups I'm pretty sure the one that gets the red seal has the blue seal on it.

 

If you have 4th servo out, remove the eclip from the 2nd servo and then washer and spring, Then puch pin in and pull second servo out should then clear the you can remove pin by itself

 

Most here use the D-ring seals from Sonnax. I would personally use what you are calling the rubber seals over the scarf cut seals (I think you are calling these teflon?) The blue seal definitely goes on the servo cover and usually must be cut to remove the cover. before reassembly do as Dixiebandit said and check servo pin length. you do this by reassembling the servo without seals or springs and installing it back in the case,l. then you push the servo cover in by hand and measure with a dial indicator. this is normally done on the bench during rebuild and will be a PITA insitu. I would shoot for .075-.090", but as long as it is under .125" it should work. hopefully you can just get a longer GM pin if not you will have to get the sonnax and file to fit or weld to the existing pin.

 

The blue seal will not fit in where the red seal goes the servo would not go in, But note the red seal is not always red sometimes its green and i have also seen in black depending on kit used. The red/green seal can be swapped for the blue outter seal though its smaller I would never do it but have torn down units it was done with and well they had not been leaking so lol.
The DRING rubber are ok not my fav I prefer teflon but I do suggest using a 400 or 4L80E return spring in place of stock with the DRINGS as I have noticed tearing down units with DRINGS many times the servo is pretty much applied still keeping band in contact with drum, Probably beause that spring is the release of the band on the 2-1 and the drings tend to be rather tight in the bore, As I said I always use the teflon myself except when I use the sonnax 2nd servo and even then i have some teflons I cut and replace the outer DRINGS with just my preference.

 

Per usual thank you all for the replies and amazing knowledge. I would never have been able to get this far without your help. I'm waiting for my seal kit to be delivered and then I'll go to the car and try this again. Since no one seems to think the seals are the problem then I'll also assume it's the pin. I'm going to try this first just to see and in all reality if/when it's not, I've pulled the trans enough times that getting to the servo again isn't really that bad.

 

i don't think anyone said it's not the seals. the servo needs to removed completely and inspect the seals. i would use the time waiting for the seals to see what your band travel is. as i said earlier seals and springs are not required for this procedure.

 

Well replaced seals and still no 2nd and 4th. Just ordered the longer pin so guess everything is at a pause till that gets here. I will use the above info to measure the clearance once it gets here. Again I want to thank you guys. No one here gains anything from the help you provide but me. It's so very appreciated. Hope everyone has a happy new year and stays safe. I will update when I can.

 

You should have measured your servo pin travel before you put the new sealing rings on. Then you could have ruled that out as the issue, saved time and possible some money. Now this will be eating at the back of your mind until you do check it.

By the way the Sonnax pin will not fit right out of the package, you will have to grind it to the proper length. So, you will have to check the pin travel.

 

not to mention possibly damaging the new seals removing them again. oh well, you can lead a horse to water.....

 

What is my risk of causing damage if I drive it till I can fix it? Uber is costing north of 20 bucks a day and the latest the new pin will be in is next Tuesday. Max driving would be about 15 miles a day.

 

I can't say because no diagnostics were done, therefore we have no idea what the problem is. Go ahead and drive it, if it breaks you kind of know how to fix it.

 

I wouldnt, The band could be partially applying and burn up and or damage the drum too. I am curios is maybe the band came off the anchor pin during install . It would be hard for me to imagine pin so short that 2nd nor 4th would apply at all. as stated more dianostics is needed and should have been done before installing the servo again. On the plus side if the anchor pin is off the band that can be corrected with a VB removal.
In short I would not drive till I had found and solved the issue.