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Before I place my order I want to see if there is anything someone would recommend to add. Sonnax performance kit, new filter, gasket, check *****, 2-3 shift valve, hardened separator plate, and shift solenoids. Debating on a servo also
Putting a shift kit in your trans will not bring it back from the dead and would be a waste of $200. If your car is a 4th gen f-body, it should Corvette servo in the trans from the factory. Shift kits do not add friction material back the clutch disk or soften hard rubber o-rings and seals. Trying to install a shift kit would be wasting money that you could put on a rebuild.
Putting a shift kit in your trans will not bring it back from the dead and would be a waste of $200. If your car is a 4th gen f-body, it should Corvette servo in the trans from the factory. Shift kits do not add friction material back the clutch disk or soften hard rubber o-rings and seals. Trying to install a shift kit would be wasting money that you could put on a rebuild.
Should have been better about clarifying for the junkyard trans
Should have been better about clarifying for the junkyard trans
In that case your shopping list in post #21 sounds very good. Not sure what you mean by "hardened separator plate"; many just buy the Transgo separator plate #46-PLT-96.
Hopefully a more experienced person will advise on a servo.
In that case your shopping list in post #21 sounds very good. Not sure what you mean by "hardened separator plate"; many just buy the Transgo separator plate #46-PLT-96.
Hopefully a more experienced person will advise on a servo.
It is the transgo. I've seen it referred to as hardened and it just stuck in my brain.
I'm adding the servo and a cooler. I know it currently has the "Vette" servo but not sure I'm trusting much from this tranny to the next. I know the difference it made in my 5.3 trailblazer I had so I don't want to take that step backwards. Plus while I'm at it I'm going to do the rear main seal.
Okay just a update of things. Went junkyard hunting and could not find a transmission for the life of me. Found rebuilders on Facebook but can't justify the cost or the time without, people selling a trans want almost 2k non rebuilt. I decided I'm taking the plunge and I'm going to replace the clutches, band, and sunshell on top of the valve body modifications and cooler. While i was at the junkyard I picked up a i6 TrailBlazer torque converter and gonna through that on too. I know people flame it but someone took the trans and left that so I only had to undo the converter bolts and it cost $37 so why not. Also adding the deep pan with a drain bolt as well.
Question for the experienced. With having that initial bind in reverse and now roasting the 3/4 pack what's the likely cause? I'm rebuilding the forward drum plus valve body and just wondering if there might be a cause I don't fix
So just want to throw this out for the next person. These damn torque converter bolts with this Allen heads were being a terror. What I saw some where else and ending up working was to put one of those extensions with the wobble end onto the Allen socket and since you'll already know you need LONG extensions for this take your longest and run it over your k member. Once I got the flex plate wedged and put my cheater pipe over my ratchet it wasn't very hard to break them loose.
So just want to throw this out for the next person. These damn torque converter bolts with this Allen heads were being a terror. What I saw some where else and ending up working was to put one of those extensions with the wobble end onto the Allen socket and since you'll already know you need LONG extensions for this take your longest and run it over your k member. Once I got the flex plate wedged and put my cheater pipe over my ratchet it wasn't very hard to break them loose.
For the record, I have NEVER used the Allen part of those bolts; I don't even know why they put that there. It always seemed like a great way to waste time and round-out the inside surface.
I only use a 6-point 15mm socket with a ball-swivel, extensions, and hit it with a 1/2" Milwaukee impact wrench. No ******' around.
Transmission is almost out. How would one flush the lines when it's out?
Blow them out with compressed air, first, then I use an old fuel pump submerged in a gallon of solvent, and hook that up to the lines for about twenty minutes.
Then blow all of the solvent out of the lines with air.
What is this? I must have set it aside and cant find it in any diagram. I went as far as replacing the sun shell and only see two thrust washers and i havw those. Second how bad is this damage on the housing? I cant see anything that would have caused it.
Thats not damage, thats just GM's casting and it was rough at times. Shiny Mark is a machining mark so no worrys. That small peice is your front pump seal retainer. Simply snaps onto the face of the pump over the seal.
Thats not damage, thats just GM's casting and it was rough at times. Shiny Mark is a machining mark so no worrys. That small peice is your front pump seal retainer. Simply snaps onto the face of the pump over the seal.
Thank you thank you! I was at a stand still and I very much appreciate the quick response.
Can I ask the knowledge pool here another question? I ran into another speed bump. The tool I bought to compress the spring in the bottom of the housing was to wide to fit. Anyone know the size for me to cut it to tomorrow? First picture top bar is what I am talking about, second picture in the middle of the clutch pack is my hang up, third picture is the burnt packs if anyone wanted to see the damage.
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