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Can I ask the knowledge pool here another question? I ran into another speed bump. The tool I bought to compress the spring in the bottom of the housing was to wide to fit. Anyone know the size for me to cut it to tomorrow? First picture top bar is what I am talking about, second picture in the middle of the clutch pack is my hang up, third picture is the burnt packs if anyone wanted to see the damage.
For the home builder needing a 1 size fits all tool this is ideal and works in all the drums of the 4l60e and virtually any trans low reverse and all.
Heading down to start again. Just wanted to say thank you to everyone here that has answered question. You are all awesome and it's very much appreciated
My luck keeps getting worse. I'm missing a 3-4 clutch. I have 5 not 6. It's the raybestos z pack.
I haven't used one in years but was thinking it should have 7 https://www.raybestospowertrain.com/...-packs/rzp-001 Raybestos® Powertrain GM TH700-R4, 4L60E, 4L65E, 4L70E 3rd, 4th Z Pak® With Revolutionary GPZ Extreme Duty Paper. RZP-001 features 1 3-4 GPZ, 1 3-4 Apply Plate, 1 3-4 Press Plate, 7 3-4 SS OD Spline GPZ, 7 3-4 SS ID Spline GPZ, 1 3-4 OD Spline Shim (Optional)
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
I was wrong it's not the z pack it's part number is RCP96-087. Doesn't change the fact I am missing a 3-4 clutch
Sadly while when I used to build at shop because we bought bulk frictions, I was not aware but now that I buy full kits for each build, I have found many only have 5 in them. So started keeping some. loose ones on hand .
You can order individual frictions online or optionally If you contact me directly, I will GIVE you one won't fit normal envelope so like 5 dollars shipping USPS. optionally you can order individually from WIT .
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Sadly while when I used to build at shop because we bought bulk frictions, I was not aware but now that I buy full kits for each build, I have found many only have 5 in them. So started keeping some. loose ones on hand .
You can order individual frictions online or optionally If you contact me directly, I will GIVE you one won't fit normal envelope so like 5 dollars shipping USPS. optionally you can order individually from WIT .
WIT or Whatever It Takes is where I source most of my trans parts. Find your local WIT office and order from them, it cost a lot more if you order from their website.
WIT or Whatever It Takes is where I source most of my trans parts. Find your local WIT office and order from them, it cost a lot more if you order from their website.
True but funny thing I order some stuff on Amazon that is in fact drop shipped from WITS yet are cheaper than I can buy direct from them and it frustrates my sales person cause he can't pricecmatch lol.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Man there are some genuinely good people on here. I appreciate the offer but I ordered another whole pack just to get it in time. These Ubers are adding up quick.
If the MAF being defective or out of calibration or dirty is the cause of the lean condition then yes.
OK so it's just the maf that would effect the pressure. Perfect thank you. I think mine is a gasket up top, im leaking oil up top so gotta tackle that next.
I freaking do not understand what I'm reading here, it's been a long few weeks. With the i6 trailblazer torque converter is it worth it to do the tcc regulator? I can't seem to understand if it would be beneficial or not
I freaking do not understand what I'm reading here, it's been a long few weeks. With the i6 trailblazer torque converter is it worth it to do the tcc regulator? I can't seem to understand if it would be beneficial or not
The TCC regulator valve should always be addressed preferably while keeping PWM like Sonnax and a couple other methods, Of course some also use a stiff spring to regulate to some max pressure which is fine if no plans to lock at WOT which of course should only really be done with a muti disc converter .
But regardless of HOW it most certainly should be addressed else you are asking for problems.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
The TCC regulator valve should always be addressed preferably while keeping PWM like Sonnax and a couple other methods, Of course some also use a stiff spring to regulate to some max pressure which is fine if no plans to lock at WOT which of course should only really be done with a muti disc converter .
But regardless of HOW it most certainly should be addressed else you are asking for problems.
Man you dont know how much you are appreciated. I freaking see why shops charge so much. You're knowledge and so many other peoples here is priceless.
Someone want to answer two questions as a birthday gift. First is I'm almost done with the shift kit and I'm about the drill out the separator plate but I can't tell which of the 3 drill bits is the .052. Of the two small ones is the smaller or bigger one the .052? Second might be dumb but what's your tactics for the check *****? Put them into the valve body and lower it onto the separator plate or on the plate and then valve body on?
Someone want to answer two questions as a birthday gift. First is I'm almost done with the shift kit and I'm about the drill out the separator plate but I can't tell which of the 3 drill bits is the .052. Of the two small ones is the smaller or bigger one the .052? Second might be dumb but what's your tactics for the check *****? Put them into the valve body and lower it onto the separator plate or on the plate and then valve body on?
As for the drill bits, go to Harber Freight and pick up a cheap dial caliper You can use that to measure your drill bits.
For the check ***** you can use Vaseline or trans assembly lube to hold the check ***** in place in the valve body.
As for the drill bits, go to Harber Freight and pick up a cheap dial caliper You can use that to measure your drill bits.
For the check ***** you can use Vaseline or trans assembly lube to hold the check ***** in place in the valve body.
so I was skim reading looking for decimals and couldn't find it at the time. With the torque converter thing I asked earlier it says drill the hole in the player with 1/16 which is .062 so the bigger of the small two.
Thank you, I had seen the Vaseline trick and planned that but once I separated the valve body, transmission is upside down currently, and they sat perfectly on the separator plate I wondered if that was a viable way to reinstall. Think I'll just go with the Vaseline.
Just want to throw out that this whole thing has been so intriguing seeing really in depth from crank>flex plate>torque converter>to as far as the rear planetary how this works. I almost want to buy a blown one and tear into the entire thing to see from pump to the output shaft how it works.
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