4l60e binding reverse
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Joined: Mar 2023
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From: BERWICK PA
You can use the ***** laying on the positions on plate but I was always worried they would somehow get knocked out of place when placing converter on, So Petrolium Jelly or assembly jell holding them in VB is my go to,
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
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Launching!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 298
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My freaking frustration is getting the better of me. I'm having a whole lot of regrets with this damn thing. How in the hell do you get the tcc regulator valve out? I got the stock valve or whatever out and the stock spring but this stupid third piece WILL NOT come out. I have long enough needle nose to grab the little nipple on the end but once it comes out of the first bore and hits the second hole it will not go past no matter how hard I pull. It's late and I've spent so much time and have so much appreciation for you all but my VB almost got launched through the TV and I need this car back asap as it's already been two weeks. If I can't get it out early I have to leave this part stock because I am simply running out of time. Thank you in advance
My freaking frustration is getting the better of me. I'm having a whole lot of regrets with this damn thing. How in the hell do you get the tcc regulator valve out? I got the stock valve or whatever out and the stock spring but this stupid third piece WILL NOT come out. I have long enough needle nose to grab the little nipple on the end but once it comes out of the first bore and hits the second hole it will not go past no matter how hard I pull. It's late and I've spent so much time and have so much appreciation for you all but my VB almost got launched through the TV and I need this car back asap as it's already been two weeks. If I can't get it out early I have to leave this part stock because I am simply running out of time. Thank you in advance
Regarding the check ball question, ill use a generous amount of trans gel to hold the check ***** in the VB during assembly. Trans gel is designed to melt away as the oil heats up.
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From: BERWICK PA
When disassembling or assembling VB's I always use a generous amount of WD40. Having the lubrication for valves and plugs to slide in and out as close as the tolerances are greatly helps. Before any disassembly happens for me, ill brake clean the VB thoroughly then air dry. Then, ill spray down each valve lineup with WD40 and let the oil creep around the valves and plugs for a while. Then disassemble. I have found this method works great for me and I havnt had one stuck valve or plug.
Regarding the check ball question, ill use a generous amount of trans gel to hold the check ***** in the VB during assembly. Trans gel is designed to melt away as the oil heats up.
Regarding the check ball question, ill use a generous amount of trans gel to hold the check ***** in the VB during assembly. Trans gel is designed to melt away as the oil heats up.
I looked at that PB BLASTER stuff antirust spray but it concerned me it might have particulate matter in it because they want you to shake well before spraying. I was interested because it's very sticky
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 298
Likes: 56
You guys are awesome! I got it using brake fluid and letting wd40 while I did the pump section. I just have to do the check ***** and finish the tcc part. My question with that part is to keep oe pwm/ec3 it says do not install their pressure limiter. Do I just use their spring and stock regulator and I'd think not to plug the pwm hole in th3 plate? Right? Wrong? Half right?
I'm in the home stretch and couldn't have done this with out this amazing site.
I'm in the home stretch and couldn't have done this with out this amazing site.
I WD40 everything lol as I am building and assembling Since at least right now I don't have DYNO working on that. So have no idea how long one will sit till actually installed. We used to have people call about installing a trans that had been in the box from 10 years ago so yea never know.
I looked at that PB BLASTER stuff antirust spray but it concerned me it might have particulate matter in it because they want you to shake well before spraying. I was interested because it's very sticky
I looked at that PB BLASTER stuff antirust spray but it concerned me it might have particulate matter in it because they want you to shake well before spraying. I was interested because it's very sticky
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 298
Likes: 56
Okay I may have messed up but hoping it's my pump. Pushed mineral spirits through the bottom line and out the top, might be the mess up, now I can't get tyranny fluid through. I'm hoping maybe the atf is to thick for this pump but any input?
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From: BERWICK PA
If you can blow air though then trans fluid will go through, Assuming you are using some sort of small electric pump. it may not be capable of pushing the thicker fluid through.
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
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Launching!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 298
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Yeah the pump was weak, i had to pump a gallon by hand which was real fun. Lines are clear, broke a teflon on the pump and no one carries it locally and the only Trans shop open at the time was about to close so going tomorrow. Sunday i couldnt work on it because the wifes diesel gelled up and then today it over heated a little so had to get to that also. Have to still do check *****, plate, air test it, band, 2-3 shift valve, and then reassemble all of the car. Broke my studs on the manifold so will also have to drill those out. Thursday is the goal where I can only work on it during lunch and after work and it's not at home so that has made it more of a pain. Yet again you guys are Rockstars always coming through!
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From: BERWICK PA
Sorry for your troubles.
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 298
Likes: 56
Okay hopefully this is the last question. What's the general consensus on getting it buttoned up with the torque converter? I thought I had seen bolt bell house to the block and then measure the gap but then I read of a guy doing that and it ruined his pump. Hand tight on the bell house or just rest on the dowels?
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From: BERWICK PA
move up till rest in place flat against block if converter turns then install two bolts the check clearance..
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
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Joined: Mar 2023
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From: BERWICK PA
Sounds like pumps not aligned. I am sure others have different ways and tools but here is my way,
Loosen pump half bolts then using a speed wrench or something similar free spin the back to snug just let it hit and stop don't go further, Do so with each, Now remove pump oring. Insert pump into trans should drop right down, When it stops if it stops, gently tap the rest of way in then tap back and forth till the pump halve bolt holes are aligned . Pump should move around with ease. Now grab the pump stator shaft, not the input shaft and pull quickly and suddenly straight up.
Now gently turn over and retorque your pump half bolts to 20fls . Put your O-Ring on and reinstall the only resistance you should feel is a little as the rev rings go in and a stop as the O-ring bumps the case. Then tap down gently. perfect fit every time if done correctly.
Note make sure your plastic washer is secure and that you were not actually hitting one of the rev rings,
Also before doing any of this put pump upside down onto shaft to make sure bushing was not what was holding you and use flash light to look down and inspect the shaft o- rings just to make sure they were not the issue.
Don't forget the gasket and make sure pump screen is installed
I never could get that pump alignment clamp to work worth a crap personally
Loosen pump half bolts then using a speed wrench or something similar free spin the back to snug just let it hit and stop don't go further, Do so with each, Now remove pump oring. Insert pump into trans should drop right down, When it stops if it stops, gently tap the rest of way in then tap back and forth till the pump halve bolt holes are aligned . Pump should move around with ease. Now grab the pump stator shaft, not the input shaft and pull quickly and suddenly straight up.
Now gently turn over and retorque your pump half bolts to 20fls . Put your O-Ring on and reinstall the only resistance you should feel is a little as the rev rings go in and a stop as the O-ring bumps the case. Then tap down gently. perfect fit every time if done correctly.
Note make sure your plastic washer is secure and that you were not actually hitting one of the rev rings,
Also before doing any of this put pump upside down onto shaft to make sure bushing was not what was holding you and use flash light to look down and inspect the shaft o- rings just to make sure they were not the issue.
Don't forget the gasket and make sure pump screen is installed
I never could get that pump alignment clamp to work worth a crap personally
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 298
Likes: 56
Sounds like pumps not aligned. I am sure others have different ways and tools but here is my way,
Loosen pump half bolts then using a speed wrench or something similar free spin the back to snug just let it hit and stop don't go further, Do so with each, Now remove pump oring. Insert pump into trans should drop right down, When it stops if it stops, gently tap the rest of way in then tap back and forth till the pump halve bolt holes are aligned . Pump should move around with ease. Now grab the pump stator shaft, not the input shaft and pull quickly and suddenly straight up.
Now gently turn over and retorque your pump half bolts to 20fls . Put your O-Ring on and reinstall the only resistance you should feel is a little as the rev rings go in and a stop as the O-ring bumps the case. Then tap down gently. perfect fit every time if done correctly.
Note make sure your plastic washer is secure and that you were not actually hitting one of the rev rings,
Also before doing any of this put pump upside down onto shaft to make sure bushing was not what was holding you and use flash light to look down and inspect the shaft o- rings just to make sure they were not the issue.
Don't forget the gasket and make sure pump screen is installed
I never could get that pump alignment clamp to work worth a crap personally
Loosen pump half bolts then using a speed wrench or something similar free spin the back to snug just let it hit and stop don't go further, Do so with each, Now remove pump oring. Insert pump into trans should drop right down, When it stops if it stops, gently tap the rest of way in then tap back and forth till the pump halve bolt holes are aligned . Pump should move around with ease. Now grab the pump stator shaft, not the input shaft and pull quickly and suddenly straight up.
Now gently turn over and retorque your pump half bolts to 20fls . Put your O-Ring on and reinstall the only resistance you should feel is a little as the rev rings go in and a stop as the O-ring bumps the case. Then tap down gently. perfect fit every time if done correctly.
Note make sure your plastic washer is secure and that you were not actually hitting one of the rev rings,
Also before doing any of this put pump upside down onto shaft to make sure bushing was not what was holding you and use flash light to look down and inspect the shaft o- rings just to make sure they were not the issue.
Don't forget the gasket and make sure pump screen is installed
I never could get that pump alignment clamp to work worth a crap personally
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Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 1,821
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From: BERWICK PA
It needs to be vertical not tilted and upside down was just to make sure front bushing not ballooned that can happen when installed with a hammer as some do. I use the press myself .
Probably with your tilt you are hitting the rev rings
Probably with your tilt you are hitting the rev rings
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
You have a very common mushrooming on the lockup o ring lands of the input shaft or i suspect stator bushings are on the tight side. Remove the input drum and test that the pump slides down easily out of the trans to make it easier.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 298
Likes: 56
It's in without gasket and I take. I'm gonna try Frank's suggestion now of pulling it straight up by the stator. My lunch just ended so it'll be later but I'll take it for now. With the pump sitting in the case it should hold the teflons from expanding right?