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god, you are on facebook? when i was looking for a school mate a while ago, i registered and a couple of days later they wrote they thought i was not who i was pretending to be and blocked the account. never bothered since with this shxx.
All that goes into a stage 2 minus the solenoids an wiring harness which at time of this pic had not arrived. Also not shown are pistons, pump rotor and vanes.
But new shown are all frictions and steels , seals, New pan heavy duty dorman they are so cheap its not worth the effort to clean the old one and try and make it nice looking and these have functional drain plugs along with new pan bolts, Corvette servo, dual overdrive servo "sonnax" new sonax band pin with tef rings and seal , New bushings some double bushing where needed IMO. WIDE Raybestos band, New reverse input drum again to cheap to not get, Beast sunshell (I know some prefer the sonnax but this is what I use in the stage 2 and it has served me well for many years) Pinless accumulators again price is pretty close to the stock type in aluminum so why not. 29 element dual cage input sprag, Spring cages with unique springs that from my own expereince function and handle heat better than the stock counterparts, Unique modifed 2-3 shift valve with rather stiff spring to help quicken the 2-3 transition (I cannot prove this claim otehr than watching difference on the dyno and seat of teh pant feel in my own cars and after implimetation 0 calls over the 2-3 shift taking more time than the 1-2 which at one time were common), Unique 9 friction set up drilled and pocketed to hold oil and help in cooling again something I cannot prove but through now years of observation have seen that it does work. Apply and backing plated machined on the clutch side to make sure are flat no high spots and trust me even stock new are not generally flat in my experence. special cut of the backing plate at top outter edge to allow space for more frictions while maintaining thickness for clutch apply area and acts as a retainer for the snap ring when applied (I must think its worth it as it takes considerable time to do) . New VB plate these things are 11 to 15 dollars GM again why not? And note in pan new rubber gasket which I adhere to the pan so can be removed and installed for multiple filter changes. Wonder why no magnent in the pan ? well the drain plug is magnetic.
The stage 3 gets all the same except sonnax shell. re-enforcement collar for input drum and OEM five pinion planets
Of course other various mods that I will cover more in the thread about tips and tricks.
And of course all through the build photos of each step are taken so you get to see what is actually in your transmission not just be told.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Last edited by FranksCustomTrans; 12-19-2023 at 09:14 PM.
The the Sonnax shell and the reinforced collar for the input drum are great reasons for EVERYONE considering a 4L60E replacement to opt for Frank's Stage 3, which definitely will be better than a stock 4L65E.
Stage 2 build with added 5 pinion planets for escalade 6.0 AWD 600 WHP phto album like all builds get . (Note I do use new solenoids but you may see that the two shift sols are not new in one of the pictures. This is becasue I was sent the wrong solenoids , the correct ones arrived later and were installed those were just in as place holders to keep valves in and finish up VB install.)
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Last edited by FranksCustomTrans; 12-22-2023 at 11:54 AM.
I do that for every build and send to every customers plus post in a photo album on FB So many people out there not doing all they say So I think thats builds transparency and trust.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Discussion you should ask when ordering a trans from anyone,
1- Am I getting neew frictions and steels (AS NEEDED IS NOT AN ANSWER)
2-Am I getting new electronics (AGAIN AS NEEDED IS NOT AN ANSWER)
3-Am I getting new Bushings (AS NEEDED IS NOT AN ANSWER)
4-is P1870 PWM CONVERTER REGULATOR BEING ADDRESSED - The answer on this will vary as multiple ways exist but preferably whatever method they use retains PWM function or sme regulated method for max line when converter locked particuary if you plan to lock converter at WOT.
5- What are you doing with the rev input drum? This can be adddressed in two actual ways one is a new drum the otther machining of the existing drum which is also fine as long as not excessive and no balloooning of the drum.
6-What is the 3-4 set going to be ? Again this will vary but good to know many GREAT setups exist and are builder and application dependent of whats best. Basically it is a decision based on thickness of steels verse holding area of frictions , Thicker steels provide better cooling however more frictions provide better hold and each require a different hydraulic set up depending on goals and application.
7- Are you checking leak down or vacume testing AFL again various methods exist however unlike in the past leaks here are becoming more and more an issue.So Its important to know if they are addressing in some way.
8-Are you replacing the end plug at the converter regulator valve? This should be done as you can geta consierable leak of converter feed oil here ideally with some sort of oringed cap plug , Most times these are badly erroded.
Many more things could be ask or discussed but these will give you an idea of the capabilites of the builders tech and knowlege . A good tech will generally over explain and talk your ear off in most cases.
Just a few things trying to promote interaction in the forum
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Discussion you should ask when ordering a trans from anyone,
1- Am I getting neew frictions and steels (AS NEEDED IS NOT AN ANSWER)
2-Am I getting new electronics (AGAIN AS NEEDED IS NOT AN ANSWER) 3-Am I getting new Bushings (AS NEEDED IS NOT AN ANSWER)
4-is P1870 PWM CONVERTER REGULATOR BEING ADDRESSED - The answer on this will vary as multiple ways exist but preferably whatever method they use retains PWM function or sme regulated method for max line when converter locked particuary if you plan to lock converter at WOT.
5- What are you doing with the rev input drum? This can be adddressed in two actual ways one is a new drum the otther machining of the existing drum which is also fine as long as not excessive and no balloooning of the drum.
6-What is the 3-4 set going to be ? Again this will vary but good to know many GREAT setups exist and are builder and application dependent of whats best. Basically it is a decision based on thickness of steels verse holding area of frictions , Thicker steels provide better cooling however more frictions provide better hold and each require a different hydraulic set up depending on goals and application.
7- Are you checking leak down or vacume testing AFL again various methods exist however unlike in the past leaks here are becoming more and more an issue.So Its important to know if they are addressing in some way.
8-Are you replacing the end plug at the converter regulator valve? This should be done as you can geta consierable leak of converter feed oil here ideally with some sort of oringed cap plug , Most times these are badly erroded.
Many more things could be ask or discussed but these will give you an idea of the capabilites of the builders tech and knowlege . A good tech will generally over explain and talk your ear off in most cases.
Just a few things trying to promote interaction in the forum
Just for sake of discussion on the forum, not to start any "arguing"
A. I'm not sure I totally agree with your point on bushings. I think the proper thing to do is to start by visually inspecting. Any pitting, grooving, or hot spotting=obviously replace. If it passes a visual inspection, measure the bushing. If it's round and within dimension...what's the sense in replacing. I've seen more errors than I can count from replacing a bushing that didn't need to be replaced. There are lots of issues out on the market right now with bushings anyway. I've replaced bushings that measured WORSE brand new than the factory 110k mile bushings did.
Would you rather have a loose new bushing, or a proper fit on an old bushing?
B. I hope it doesn't make me a bad tech, but I usually don't over-explain on the phone to a customer when they start asking for specifics. I don't always have time to talk someone's ear off. And usually I've already sent them a build list I have written up that will cover most of what's being done so they are informed on what they're buying. As for the rest, a good reputation often speaks for itself as does some kind of warranty. I obviously make some time for the forum here, and I chat with customers when I have time. But if I'm in the middle of a busy day at the shop, I probably don't have 20 minutes to try to explain and justify everything I do for a customer.
Na no argument , And in fact on bushings at times i woudl agree I have torn some units down where the bushings were literally NEW and in that case . No I would not change , Some exceptions however I always do the the front and rear sungear bushing as I use 3 in the front and either 2 or the sonnax in rear, Pump and case and wider 350 bushing in stator , Of course now days these units are getting so old Many times they indeed do need bushing all arround I have noted.
Time spend talking being that I am a one man show I do understand and the idea of my list is a general guild not really even mean for people here , I have been spending alot of time in the FB pages of late and honestly some of these people scare me. Yet they are promising from stock to 800 hp capable trans at prices like 900 dollars or a little more . Its simply cannot be done and they simply have to be reusing many things they shouldnt .
The general idea of the questions is so the customer can get a general idea of what they are getting into, If they ask some or all of those questions and the person on the other end starts stumbling or evading that is a red flag. And of course with some you are talking to a salesman who well does not really know anything. Keeping experienced real techs on hand now days is see as unessesary and costly as Google and youtube will teach all you need to "know"
And yes a full write up of the build is generally what I do with potential customers along with photos of all builds and yes at least for now its nessesary as while I have been arround many and am pretty well known in places like this but under anotehr name and created quite a following over the years in my former work I am now literally a nobody starting over in the general sense in a world of internet hacks so I do have to jump a few more humps and show more bells and whistles than might be nessesary for someone with a more established name.
I have the upmost respect for your ability and Knoweledge as well as a few others here over manys year of interaction both on and off forum. You and a few others here are people I would have no issue working with discussing , exchanging and mutually learning.
I actually posted this to the wrong place I meant to put it under tips and tricks. But its actually ok to be here I suppose.
Thanks for your interaction. I miss the days when this forum was more active.
Frank
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Famous quote from John Ruskin always applies and is true:
There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey.
TH400 STREET STRIP BUILD NOTHING SPECIAL. I only do 400 as carrys ins as its gotten so hard to get a decent core at least arround here. This is what they look like after being soda blasted , Does pretty good not quiet a new look but compaired to start which was corrodeed with heavy salt etc common in the great north lol coame out pretty good .
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Subscribed. I'm a good ways off on needing a transmission on my current project, but I think I'm going to ditch my T-56 and go 4L60e so I can cruise around at the shows and not have to feather the clutch. Is there a warranty on the Stage 2/3 like the Stage 1?
Subscribed. I'm a good ways off on needing a transmission on my current project, but I think I'm going to ditch my T-56 and go 4L60e so I can cruise around at the shows and not have to feather the clutch. Is there a warranty on the Stage 2/3 like the Stage 1?
All have a year warranty ,
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook