I was practicing a few launches in preparation for the local drag strip to open. I was going to clock my 0-60 and 1/8 using a Dragy.
I had to abort after I took off as a few cars were coming from the other direction so I decided to just go home and do it another time.
I get about 2-3 miles down the road and the car is slowing down, engine still running. I pulled over, look under the car and hood, all is fine.
Put it in gear and it won’t move F or R.
I pulled the tyranny and looked at the pump, it’s busted.
How does a pump just break?

 

If the pump sucked air during a launch or on a steep incline and then all of a sudden gets fluid if can break the rotor if the pump doesn't have harden rings.

 

Of course sometimes things well JUST BREAK, But more likley excessive converter clearance or low fluild the 60e is notorious for suckig the pan dry particulary if has the shallow pan and I can tell you watching on the dyno low levels or cavation will send that slide bouncing all over the place and that will brek a pump . But I would observe the tags on the converter side ussually you can tell if the converter got on top of it .

 

Here is a picture of a pump rotor I took out of a stock build. It was still running and driving. It had lost the 3-4 clutch. I almost re-ran this rotor...

 

I was on pretty level road, the tranny was slightly overfilled maybe by 1/2 qt.
I had driven it about 25 miles when this happened.
The converter had the proper spacing, will check it again when I put it back in.
It could have been a fluke as it ran fine for the last year and doing a few mega burnouts.
The filter and fluid didn’t have any particulate in it. Most was in the screen that’s in the pump assy.
I don’t think any of it got past the screen.

 

What converter are you running.
I ran a converter in my personal camaro when I was in college that seemed to break the pump rotor every 6 months
after the 3rd time, checking everything else (flexplate, fluid level, converter spacing, etc) I checked the converter for runout and it was a disaster
Swapped converter and it hasn't had an issue in 6+ years. And it's had multiple different converters in that time frame.

A couple tidbits
When you put this unit back together, get a 10v rotor and plastic guide.
And install a sonnax high volume pump slide spring.

The 10v is stronger, and produces a bit more volume.
The pump slide spring will help to keep the slide from "slapping" when you get into low suction scenario

 

I had a Corvette servo, a TransGo boost valve in it, stock OE diameter, and the wider band.
The pump was a stock 13 vane.
The converter was a 4L70, 3000-3400 stall. Worked great in my 2700 lb street rod.
Just looked at the stator that I had put aside when I saw the pump in pieces.
I should have looked at it earlier, it’s toast. A few of the vanes got it.

 

This Transgo kit has the hardened pump rings Frank mentioned and I think the extra spring that MaroonMonster mentioned:

https://transgo.com/product-details/...le-pump-rings/

 

OK, thanks for the tips.
I found a front pump assy that will be here sometime soon.
I have some plans to make more power in the near future and don’t want to lunch this tranny again so I ordered a 4L65e level 3 tranny with a Yank converter from GearStar.
I’ll keep the original one as a backup.

 

Got the Gearstar level 3 tranny today, hope to have it installed in a few days.

 

The Gearstar tranny and Yank converter is in and working fine. Haven’t had much time to pull the rest of the original tranny apart yet but do have one question for you tranny experts.
The Lokar cable shifter allows the tranny to shift between P, R, N, and D.
With the cable disconnected the shift rod coming out the side of the tranny has 7 positions it can be turned to. What are the other positions for?

 

D3, 2nd and Low

 

The 4L60E has P, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1 - often called OD, D3, D2 and D1.

I don't want to restart previous threads with zillions of posts, (but here I go anyway), depending upon the mods (or lack thereof) in the Gearstar Stage 3, it might be advantageous to do your drag racing in D3 so that the Overrun clutch takes some load off the forward sprag in 3rd gear. However another opinion, with a stock setup, is that feeding the Overrun clutch during the shift to 3rd reduces the fluid available to quick engage the 3/4 clutch, which might cause more 3/4 clutch wear.
HOWEVER, if you have the highly-recommended Sonnax HD 2-3 Shift valve installed, then the Overrun clutch stays engaged in 1st, 2nd and 3rd with the shifter in D3 and you DEFINITELY then want to do your drag racing in D3.

 

Thanks for the quick answers. The Lokar shifter does allow moving the shifter from D to the right (sport mode) so I can manually change gears up and down, electronically thru the tranny ECU.
I’m not sure if the Gearstar came with a Sonnax Shift valve, here’s the info that Gearstar provided. Would that be the .500 Boost valve?

Horse Power: 500 (Up to 500 ft lbs Torque)
Converter: 12” High Performance Furnace Brazed with Flanged Hub and Carbon Fiber Clutch
Stall: 2600-3200
Master Overhaul Kit with Alto Hardened Steels
Raybestos Stage 1 Frictions
Filter
New 29 Element Dual Cage Sprag
High Capacity Upgraded Pump Assembly
New Hardened Pump Rings
A New 13 Vane Pump Rotor
New Vanes
New Stator
.500 Boost Valve
Pressure Regulator Valve
Updated Boost Valve
Transgo Reprogramming Shift Kit with Shift Command
Bushing Kit
New Thrust Washers
Complete Torrington Bearing Kit
Heavy Duty Hardened Sun Shell
Heavy Duty Expanded Capacity Input Drum with Reinforcing Sleeve
New Low/ Rev Heavy Duty Spring and Roller
High Rev Spring Kit
Corvette Servo
Wide Carbon-Fiber 2-4 Band
New Valve Body Spacer Plate
Fill Tube & Stick
New Shift Solenoids
New EPC Solenoid
A New PWM Solenoid
New 3/2 Solenoid
New Manifold Pressure Switch
A New Internal Wiring Harness W/New TCC Solenoid
New Electronic Speed Sensor
Transmission Mount
New Original Equipment Steel Transmission Pan

 

Frank, after looking at the tags on the converter this is what found.
Not sure if it was caused by one of the pump blades that got on top of the pump when it broke.
I guess I could weld some material back on and then reshape it.
Do you know the size of the o-rings (number) that are on the 7 bolts that hold the pump assy to the case?

The good side.



The not so good side.

 

You need to send the converter off to be repaired
A. it definitely needs a new hub
B. It is likely full of debris from the pump that grenaded and will need to be cleaned properly less you risk putting that debris right back into a fresh/rebuilt transmission

 

^^^^^ agree^^^^

 

How high does the Engine Rev?
What RPM does it make Peak Horse at...
Also what is the highest RPM that the Engine will see under Full Throttle Shifts.
If you know what RPM the Engine Builder indicated that the Red-line would be, that would be great.

I find that the TransGo High RPM Pump Slide Spring to be a great choice for Most Engines that do not Rev higher than 6,500 RPM.
Often during a Full Throttle 2nd - 3rd Up-Shift, or 3rd - 4th Up-Shift, for the Slide to move into the Low-Volume Position (we really do not want that).
Especially with the Overrun Clutch Applied (Overrun Circuit Modified).

A good amount of the Engine that I used to build over many years, would see 7,000 RPM to 10,000 RPM.
I have combined the TransGo High RPM Pump Slide Spring along with the Inner-Spring from the Low RPM Pump Slide Spring Set...
As well as the Sonnax Pump Slide Spring Shim.

The Two Springs and Shim do a very good job of keeping the Pump Slide in the High-Volume Position under very high demands.
Keeping the Transmission a Quart or so over the "Actual Full Mark" (research/ search for Dip-Stick verification/ correction Threads).
If your Vehicle has the ground-clearance for an Extra-Capacity/ Deep Oil Pan...
That is even better. Also over fill a Quart or so.

 

Now would also be a great time to get away from the LARGE 12' Torque-Converter.

Upgrading to a custom smaller diameter Torque-Converter in the $800 - $1,000 Price Range...
Will almost always be a night to day Difference in Performance.

I do not think I have a single person regret it, out of hundreds and hundreds of Customers.

 

Thanks again for all the info. This is the only tranny I’ve pulled apart, I’m still learning.
The 4L65e has a Corvette servo, a TransGo boost valve in it, stock OE diameter, and the wider band.

I did flush out the cooling loop in the radiator and the tranny cooler, only found a few small specks.
The filter in the pump assy had a few very small pieces in it.
I drained the converter and poured the fluids thru a paper coffee filter, only a few specks wire in the fluid.
I didn’t know the hub could be replaced, thanks.

Vorteciroc, some answer for you.

How high does the Engine Rev? Redline is 6600 but it’s been to 6800 a few times.

What RPM does it make Peak Horse at...Stock is 430HP @ 5900, peak torque 425ft-lbs at 4600.
I added shorty headers, there aren’t any cats on it, just 2 short Borla mufflers.
Also what is the highest RPM that the Engine will see under Full Throttle Shifts…..I’ll back it down to 6600 with the tuning software.
If you know what RPM the Engine Builder indicated that the Red-line would be, that would be great…..it’s a new LS3 that I bought directly from GM Connect and Cruise. Redline is 6600.

I find that the TransGo High RPM Pump Slide Spring to be a great choice for Most Engines that do not Rev higher than 6,500 RPM.
Often during a Full Throttle 2nd - 3rd Up-Shift, or 3rd - 4th Up-Shift, for the Slide to move into the Low-Volume Position (we really do not want that).
Especially with the Overrun Clutch Applied (Overrun Circuit Modified).

A good amount of the Engine that I used to build over many years, would see 7,000 RPM to 10,000 RPM.
I have combined the TransGo High RPM Pump Slide Spring along with the Inner-Spring from the Low RPM Pump Slide Spring Set...
As well as the Sonnax Pump Slide Spring Shim.

The Two Springs and Shim do a very good job of keeping the Pump Slide in the High-Volume Position under very high demands.
Keeping the Transmission a Quart or so over the "Actual Full Mark" (research/ search for Dip-Stick verification/ correction Threads). Top of the pan flange is a little above full.
If your Vehicle has the ground-clearance for an Extra-Capacity/ Deep Oil Pan.…..no it doesn’t, I’ve got 11 quarts in it now and it’s was at the full mark, I’ll add more. Right now it’s about 1/4” below the pan flange.
That is even better. Also over fill a Quart or so.

The Gearstar tranny I just installed is using a 10.5” SS2800 Yank converter.