I understand. I have an F body case, and a 4x4 truck case with the K on the outside. May pick up another 93 trans that is a 2wd truck case. I need an extra 2wd output shaft. Sort of plan change. Gonna get one of them going so i can drive it Then have a level one build by FCT😉

 

Finally got back to working on this transmission. Got it out and its on the table ready for disection. As i found out before this is a 95 m30 case transmission in a 1994 lt1 firebird. Lost 3r-4th gear and will not go into reverse. Pulled the torque converter and found its got a PWM pump. Appears to be the correct early no lip style but has a machinist stamp 5 19 2014 in outer edge. Before diving into the trans what should i be looking for that would make this backwards compatible to my car? And if they stuck a shelf build in this car before i got it with it being 1995 spec could it explain the failure? Pump pic attatched for reference. This is as far as i got today.

 

The PWM pump will work in a NON PWM unit, It will just apply off and on same as the non PWM does. The 95 VB and plate will work on a 94 as long as converter regulator valve stuck or preferably set up with the sonnax pressure regulator type valve a spring. The 93 94 UNITS will work in he 95 with the addition of he PWM solenoid to fool the PCM, But bear in mind the 93 94 may not have places for a PRNDLE switch or Truck shifter mount. The 95s I have run across so far do have these but the PNDLE switch holes are not tapped easy fix .
A non PWM pump will not work in place of a PWM pump however and will cause Erratic TCC function with chattering etc.
Many "Off the shelf"builder / sellers will set all the 93 94 95s up as 95 with the converter regulator mod done to allow more diverse exchangeability. Nothing wrong with this , They will just all be simple on and off TCC as long as the case has the necessary mounts for the vehicle to be installed in.
But no none of this would affect your 3-4 or rev, Those will be internal mechanical issues.

 

Thanks for the info. Ill break it down in the next few days to check set up with pictures if possible as I go to record changes made for function.

 

Got into the trans as far as I could. Quite a mess. A few chunks of aluminum to go around too. Ill post some photos of what i found.

 

That picture right there tells you everything you need to know about why I hate the aluminum pistons/ lip seals.

 

Thats exactly what i figured happened. Not sure what chewed up the outside of the imput housing? Sun shell looked unscathed. Whats a good sorce for a housing with shaft? Any upgrades without.going sonnex? Improved piston?

 

What am I missing? That drum looks okay to me. A little scoring from the 3-4 steels but doesn't appear to be very deep.

 

This is the outside. The sun shell looks unscathed.

 

That drum looks normal to me.

 

The aluminum pistons are fine , But can be tedious to install and not damage seals. I always swap them to moulded unless a bottom dollar stock rebuild. Mostly out of convenience. But seems you did have some sort of leak. Is the green oring in the drum? common miss. The drum itself is probably ok. But of course I cannot really see it to be sure.
Also be sure and check for grooves inside the pump stator, They are easy miss and even a tiny one a disaster .

 

This is the normal side.

 

YES the outside looks fine some are pretty some not so much . But does not matter.

 

For all the builders what bearings/bushings are usually replaced when doing a rebuild? Im planning to inspect and clean everything doing each sub assembly as i go. Sprag bearings BW are on my list. Do the roller and torirington bearings usually get replaced or only cleaned and inspected? The sunshell looked like it was upgraded so will be inspected very well. Reverse input drum will be checked with strait edge but probably reused. Trying to see who is good for a kit but dont want to get too many add ons if not needed. As before i have a second trans for a performance build this is to get it driving now.

 

I replace all bushing and clean and inspect torrington bearings. I get most of my parts from WIT (Whatever It Takes transmissions).

 

I generally clean/ inspect and reuse torrington bearings, but if in doubt, a new set isn't very much.
As mentioned, replace all bushings, ESPECIALLY on these transmissions. The geartrain doesn't have a center support like many other transmissions do, and it just "floats" inside the case.Bushings are what keeps everything lined up/ supported.

Pay really close attention to the planetary gears. They should spin smoothly, and you should NOT be able to rock them side to side. The last build I did had a couple of bad planets in it. If that is the case for you, then get a good used planetary assembly.

 

In the process of cleaning and inspecting parts. What case specific changes are typically needed in prep for the valve body changes? Wanting to do case work first M30 one piece case. Before starting the assembly process want to get this done. Any best brands for seals and gaskets?

 

Case wise nothing really other that get it clean and make sure the Encapsulated check ball in case seals one near servo .
Plug the 4th accum feed if you plan to eliminate. Check to see how much leakage you have in servo pin bore- address as needed with oringed or teflon ringed pin or bore and oversized pin. Rear case bushing a must IMO .

 

Bushing needed original noticably worn. I will check servo check ball, i believe ive seen checking with oil to verify will seal. 4th accumulator bore plug, not sure, I read over the 3-2 changes but will have to re-read and will have questions im sure. This is also a 95 case with late 94/95 pwm pump, thats going into a 94 f-body. So when valve body overhaul takes place lots more to discuss. I also have some of the internals I am on the fence about replacing as the input drum had aluminum piston that got pretty tore up with aluminum shrapnel sent through transmission. It seams most of the builders do the mods to VB im refering too.

 

Air works just push the ball to back . The pump will be just fine as long as you us a 93/94 vb and plate nothing needs done. If you use a 95 VB and plate you will need to stick the CONVERTER REGULATOR valve outboard or better yet use the sonnax valve and regulator spring for the converter regulator valve but cannot find link to it. But just sticking it outboard and using oringed end cap as long as not locking WOT (set up as stock) will be fine. But an actual 93/94 vb and plate will just work. Though I still like to oring the end cap on the crv .