This may help.

 

Besides getting used parts from a core whats a good resource/sponsor to get a 4pinion planet reaction shaft and sungear used that could be purchased? Tore into an extra transmission I have and the gears have similar nicks and scoring on the gear teath of the planet. Mainly searching for the upper planet shaft and sungear(small one). The lower sungear was really chewed up. Havent pulled the low center clutch support but expect the large planet to be trashed. The input drum does appear to be in better shape with initial inspection but ran out of time to tear down. Sased on aluminum shrapnel probably a lip seal failure. Will still probably need an input sprag assembly too.

 

I would contact WITS whatever it takes transmission parts, I dont think any sponsor here sells planets and such . I usually get mine from there

 

I plan on contacting WIT to get the extra hard parts that need replaced. Any good resources with some pictures of gear teeth inspection for transmissions. On my previous photos along with obvious teeth knicks the cracks along the mesh surface of the panet gears were interesting. The other core i had the planets looked similar with the same damage. Just trying to learn as i'm at a pause till i can get the hard parts but i need to measure the reaction shaft and cage before calling as there seams to be a size difference, but im at work.

 

Anyone retro fit the newer 4 pinion planet and ring gear with shaft to a 1 piece case. I know its a bearing unit and not a bushing where it connects on the shaft face. Plus the bearing between the planet and inner ring gear is thicker. Trying to get an idea of how much work it may be or if the special sonnax part is required, or if a used gm part is workable. Seams my early style is not as readily available.

 

As long as you use the late reaction shaft with it you should have no issue, The change was here and on the planet with a new bearing style . Beyond that its plug in play .

 

I may have to swap a working trans in till some additional hard parts are sourced. If a 1995 4l60e were found what valve body mods might be needed to make it work in a 1994 f body?

 

I may have to swap a working trans in till some additional hard parts are sourced. If a 1995 4l60e were found what valve body mods might be needed to go in a 94f body. I dont want to disassemble a known working transmission other than dropping pan for filter and fluid change? Having said that how do you block the pwm outboard? O ring end cap then put pwm back on? How would it attach? Any pictures showing this mod? Lastly would plug still work?

 

You can do several things, You can use solid spring to block it outboard. Some remove and put valve assembly in backwards (never done this but see people post about it) , You can replace with this .

One of these would be the only mod needed. Also some kits contain a spring which you can use for that, You remove the rear valve and ping small hole closed as much as possible and replace with the spring. Its regulates TCC pressure to about 100 to 120 PSI . The kit actually shows the how. This too would be fine as long as no plans to alter the TCC function for WOT LOCKUP.

 

Similar question but usung a 1996 transmision. Would it be necessary to swap to a 94 VB or a 95 VB blocking the valve in the 95? Would a 1994 VB work with the PWM pump or would it be best to use the 95 VB but blocking the valve as was discussed before?

 

The 93 and 94 with the 93-94 plate will work in the later models just put right solenoids for pwm and 3-2 on place for the computer to see and you will just have simple on/off lockup.
The 95 AT LEAST in my experience with my own car. just put the right solenoid's in for the 96 up 3-2 and PWM. I have this is my own car reversed a 96 VB with 95 SOLENOIDS NO issues 35k miles but have seen it dones much longer.
PWM pumps retro to 93 and 94 no issues . You just cannot use the NON PWM in the 95 up unless you block the converter regulator valve outboard to always on.

 

I may have mis read so only trying to clearify. With the 1996 valve body/transmission is it possible to switch solenoids to 1995 set up, and block 3-2 and use in a 1994 trans Am? If it is possible what about the 12pin connector/harness in transmission with the 11 pin in car harness? I do have a 1993 stamped valvebody and a 1994 stamped valve body that would need gone through to use. The transmission1996 in question is a used driver that was previously rebuilt but will be put in a 1994 TA to be able to drive till the other trans can be finished.

 

In this case block the 3-2 not really needed but you will need to use the 93-94-95 3-2 solenoid and harness, And you will need to block the converter regulator valve outboard .But leave the PWM solenoid there to block the hole with the 94,

 

As the text states above switch to early solenoids? Where the arrow is located block this but leave in place? With the TCC solenoid in 1996 VB whats best way to block it? Also does the tcc solenoid that inserts into pump need to be a different ohm value? I may have miss stated the harmess pin count but does the 93-94-95 share a 12 pin harness and the 96 up use a 13 pin harness? With this i would need to change from a 13pin harness to a 12 pin? Lastly this would be to make a 1996 transmission work in a 1994 Trans Am?

 

Use whichever EPC matches your harness, The two shift solenoids remain unchanged they are not different . the 3-2 needs to match car. The CRV outer valve need to be blocked against end cap . You can do this with a piece of solid cut spring / PWM solenoid is left in place to block hole but not plugged in and yes you would have to use the early harness.

 

Finally got the 1996 4l60e transmission. Gonna install the transmission in the car and then do the valve body mods. Is there a good spring to buy either by itself or in a kit to block the CRV with? Or is it better to turn it around to block? I have a 1994 harness from the old transmission that lost a lip seal and burned up 3-4 so have the other parts i need. The car the 1996 trans came from was driven and shifted well having been previously rebuilt. Has a rebuilt torque converter or un identifiable converter with only #5 between raised vanes on outside and K3 28 268 only other numbers on case. Once its driving i can play with more trans adjustmens as needed. Any prefered trans fluid everyone like?

 

I deally with that set up I like to use the 94 tcc regultor valve with the later vb it will fit and the spring for that purpose that come in many rebuild kits and sonnax also sells that basically regulates the TCC presure to like 110 120 PSI and block the feed to what would have been the rear of the valve eliminating a leak and orringed end cap in the bore another source of a major leak .

 

To clearify so I can understand I could use the fitzall valve in the Crv/tcc slot or use a spring to block(push to end cap) plus fit o ring end cap for the tcc port? Leave the pwm solenoid in place but unplugged then change harness to early 93/94 plug and should be usable in a 1994 Trans Am? Could the 1996 harness in transmission be used with the 12 pin body harness as long as the pwm is left unplugged and with tcc valve changes? I have the old harness from the blown transmission but not sure if the tcc valve attatched would have debris in it. Also this is a working transmission i am wanting to the least amount of changes to make compatable with the 94 trans am.

 

NO on the late harness under it is a fitzall WHICH HAD TWO PLUGS for the 3-2 and the 93-94-95 use a 3-2 with a different Impedance than later models (note this does not always cause an issue or a code as i have seen the later one in functioning units that did not set code) But many do set one and Limp mode for electrical fault.
YES the fitzall valve is one way that will work . But you must still keep the PWM solenoid in place . plugged in or not does not matter as the car has no wire for it.

 

#1 Leave the blue circle unplugged
#2 Replace red arow valve with Fitzall with orings
#3 Change 3-2 solenoid yellow circle with 10-15 ohm solenoid to earlier spec.
#4 Leave solenoids circled in black alone
#5 Use 94 harness with early ohm TCC solenoid attatched
Im going to remove pan Saturday to swap parts out change filter and work on getting installed. Just want to get it right the first time. Sorry if i am repeating the same question and getting the same answer you transmission pros use the terms your used to and Im still learning but am capable of getting the work done just need to understand completely before making changes in case i need to change anything back.