yes all correct and note you must use the later plate to match vb not the 93-94 plate.

 

The valve body will not even be removed to make the changes. Should still have 96 style plate. Ill pull pan Saturday and will come back here if anything looks different than it should be.

 

Only issue i see with not removing VB would be the CONVERTER REGUATOR valve clip. end cap. valve , spring and isolator valve as nothing is magnetic but the spring.
Not saying cannot be done but should be interesting, Usually the clip is to case side. I have never tried to turn one , might be possible. Good luck .

 

I've seen a video or two removing the clip while attatched to the transmission but we will see if it will come out. What brand of harness is everyone using as replacement for early model transmissions? My harness from the old transmission is a little brittle looking. This is for the 1994 set up Brands i've seen Rostra, famous brand, bwd, atp, and standard motor products. Also should i use harness with regular or antibleed lock up solenoid?

 

I have mostly used rostra but due to some availability issue with the early style . I have also used these , They seem well made and have posed 0 issues

 

Well had about an hour to pull the pan on the transmission. Looks clean on trans side and the pan had mostly clean fluid and the usual black friction material. Magnet wasnt coated to bad either. Not sure when it was rebuilt or even last service. I tried removing the clip to replace the valve with a fitzal but as frank stated the clip may not be removable without removing valve body(I'll return to this in a moment). If i need to remove the valve body what would i need to replace after breaking the seal on the plates? Obviously the mods to the gaskets and the two metal plugs Frank likes to do to protect the sprag. Besides inspection and light surface cleaning what should I check. I dont really want to do a full vb rebuild as this was from a runing driving car but if It can be done low buck but right I will consider. I'm only talking about the valve body. If thats what is recomended I may just go with rebuilding the 94 valve body and instaling that but same premis low buck but done right. I know ones low buck is subjective. I already have a fitzal coming at proper ohm valve and new harness. If i take off valve body im thinking gaskets and the two Frank mods. More than that i will refer to the other forum thread for orifices and sizes etc. Ok back to the valve where fitzal goes. Couldnt remove clip but pushing on end plug moves valve visible through drain holes. Only moves widthe of clip hole but i see the metal valve move and feels under spring tension. What i dont see is a spring visable like other valve bodies i have. Is it possible this has a fitzal already or would it not move at all. I know this is a lot but you all are a wealth of knowledge and im here to learn. What im trying to accomplish right now is a drivable car till money and time allow a full performance rebuild of the original transmission. So, like a track day repair only way deeper than you would want to go on a track day.

 

GASKETS , I WOULD DO BORE PLUGS . I will say unless the pan has never been off since new , Which the gasket would suggest otherwise. The pan seems to me to be excessively dirty with clutch material. Usually I see the most with a frist change after a build especially with new bushings and carbon clutches seem to shed more in the first few hundred miles . But subsequent changes are usually much much cleaner. Of course photos can give illusions of being more than reality and for all I know this may be a first change after many many miles after a rebuild at some point.
But that does seem like alot of clutch material to me by appearance. Would be interested to how the filter is and how sucked in it is .
This style has a small spring between the isolator and the conv reg valve that is not visible.
I didn't figure you would be able to remove that clip. In my early days of figuring out how to address 1870 code in builds before things were out to fix and working out my own method other than eliminating PWM all together which I still use today. I would intentionally put the clip from the outside for easy changes.

 

The filter looked clean didnt appear sunk in. No metal i noticed(didnt sparkle in the light. I would say this is the first change after a rebuild after mant miles. Fluid still red but overdue for a refresh. Im contemplating refreshing the 94 VB and puting that in but im not sure of resonable cost to go that far. I could do bore plugs and gaskets and overrun mod for around $75 additional on top of parts i just ordered. If i start pulling valves and confirming vacuum im sure ill have way more in this experiment. Decisions decisions.

 

yes i once detailed my mods and shift kit set up with everything prepared and ready to install in trans and VB . Simple enough easier than transgo addressing everything and t make selling it worth my while with shipping was 250 dollars . Got very little interest .

 

Was your.kit/info drop in mostly and a few drilled holes in plate or was it more reaming out valve slots. I may try gaskets and bore plugs and start prepping the other valve body in case. I just dont have a good way to vacuum test the valve body to assure sealed correctly. What im experimenting with will be usable in the other transmission when rebuild happens so that is at least one plus.

 

Drop in yes but a bit more than just that
The kit I proposed included:
BONDED PLATE - 95 TO 2008
BORE PLUGS ORINGED
END CAPS FOR CONVERTER REGULATOR AND 4-3 VALVES..
GENTLY OVERSIZED AFL VALVE
LONGEST GM BAND PIN ORINGED WITH BAND CLEARANCE INSTRUCTION
ALUM FWD AND SECOND ACCUMS
SPRING OPTION FOR VB ACCUM
NEW GM .500 BOOST VALVE TRIPLE ORRINGED
MODDED 2-3 SHIFT VALVE AND SPRING
SPRING FOR CONVERTER REGULATOR VALVE
CORVETTE SERVO WITH PIN ALREADY INSTALLED BUT NO 4TH SERVO
2ND SERVO -4L80E RETURN SPRING.
DRILL BIT FOR BAND COOLING MOD.

 

Sounds like a lot of nice mods. Additional for 93/94? This would eliminate 4th accumulator?

 

yes like 15 dollars more for the 93 94 as have to use transgo plate, No bonded plate available,
And yes eliminated 4th accun

 

On taking the vb off and doing minimum. Gm 24221350 gaskets, OR mod, bore plugs, abuse plugs(wasnt sure if this was being considered with bore plugs), fitzal valve? Not doing whole vb rebuild just minimum. If it all fails after install i learned a lot and know way more than i did before.

 

I call abuse plugs bore plugs and the others end caps so yes both,

 

Ok sorry for all the pictures. Started disassembly of the 1994 VB. Gonna rebuild it with oring end plugs, oversized bore plugs and any other upgrades that are not too involved based on what ive pictured that may be needed. One valve bore not pictured due to end plug not wanting to come past second land after the clip but will probably have to carefully grip and twist and pull. Didnt remove accumulator cover either but this was all i could fit in today. Is it ok to clean bores carefully with nylon brushes? Probably going with new transgo plate and gaskets and either the factory metal ***** or new torlon *****. I have a fitzal that was ordered for the 1996 vb but i think it isnt usable with the early 94 style vb. While i have vb out should i block the 4th accumulator on the transmission? Would sonnax pinless accumulator pistons be necessary or worthwhile for the VB? Also doing over run mod on new plate does the transgo plate require any orifice resizing or is it ok to run out of box after blocking the two holes and cutting the gasket? I think thats all for now.

 

Nylon brushes are just fine. Preferable, even. They will knock off loose burrs/ "aluminum boogers" that can make the valves stick upon reassembly.
BE SURE TO VACUUM CHECK AFTER THIS IS DONE.

I don't think you need the Fitzall valve on your application, but I'll let someone more knowledgeable answer that definitively.

ALWAYS block the 4th accumulator.

I, and many others, think that the Sonnax pinless accumulator pistons aren't necessary, but that's your call.

These are the orifice sizes I used on a recent build with an early-style valvebody with the overrun mod. Works great, but you WILL notice the 3-2 downshift when coming to a stop.

 

Did that valve body come out of the trans that it is going back in? Man, that thing is nasty!!!

A pan of mineral spirits, engine degreaser or brake clean would help your odds of this valve body ever working again.

 

No this vb is from my blown transmission. If i put bore plugs, abuse plugs clean it and figure out a way to vacuum it i may use it instead of the 96 vb since i have to pull it anyway. Worse case i change my mind and do minimal work to the 96 and store the 94 vb for the full rebuild later. Are the vb gaskets for either valve body used upper and lower the same or are they the same? Trying to order im getting conflicting information. Gm 24221350 is a 4 pack but doesnt show upper and lower just seeing what the pros use.

 

Here is how I clean a really dirty VB, I first wash all excess oil in my water based parts washer with aircraft simple green non corrosive to aluminum . Then I us my pressure washer with turbo tip and blast with that till I SEE NO DIRT or oil. Then I blow it out good and check valve movement then I heat to 240f and check valve movement again , The spray with WD 40 and blow out again. Then disassemble to do my mods etc again washing each bore out with either starting fluid or Non- Chlorine brake cleaner, Do all my mods and orings , AFL then reheat again to 200f check valves again, The spray with WD40 easy lube and blow out real well while hot. Then I allow to cool . Check all valves once more. Then ready to install ,
VB GASKETS -Normally I use the boned as all know but they are not available for the 93-94 - can still be used but have to block large holes. So for those I ussually just get a TG plate and the early gaskets AMAZON PRICE CRAZY BUT I ALWAYS GET FULL OVERHALL KIT WHICH COME WITH BOTH EARLY AND LATE ,
NO need for FITZALL valve with the 94 (though you can still use it ) but I just ring the end cap on those and all good .