As far as some VB planned modifications. Blocking the 3-2 valves and moving the springs as described in one of the threads recomended. I will plug the 4th accumulator feed. I know some orifice holes will need to be enlarged or left the same will doing the bathtub area plate slugs and forward overrun gasket mod still apply Frank?
1. Block 3-2 valves and move springs over.
​​​2.Plug 4th accumulator feed hole.(does this accumulator still require the accumulators to be installed)?
3. Placing oringed abuse valve plugs and oring end plugs.
4. It apears a plug is blocking the solenoid in the picture i am reusing from previous forum post.

What other valve body mods might i be missing?

 

the overun mod is done exactly as the picture shows . No need to use the sonnax 2-3 with this mod though it wont hurt anything either just will basically do nothing .

 

i DONT do the 3-2 valve block but its fine if you choose to,

 

Let us see the 3-2 control valve that your unit has before you do this; there is an early and a late style.

I recommend installing a Central Valvebodies AFL valve.

Go to the Sonnax website, and print out the 4L60E vacuum test guide. It breaks down which valves and springs go where in a nice diagram.

 

Ill pull the afl control valve in the next day or two with an update picture here as soon as I can. Ill check out the central vb afl valve too. Any benifits to doing the 3-2 block with the overun mods? I understand its probably just personal preference. Its an early style transmission 1994 lt1 that will be daily driven with occasional strip use(once or twice a year). If not blocking the 3-2 valves any reason to plug 4th accumulator and leave out the spring and piston? Are the spring cage mods needed like the transgo kit provides? I am not trying to split hairs with you all builders, just wanting to understand how each mod may improve or make the transmission work the best for my needs.

 

i dont do the sprang cage mods if you mean the HD springs in the TG kit,
The 3-2 VALVE AND OVERUM MOD ARE not related functions.

 

I appreciate the info. Probably do simple mods such as overrun and get the leaks under control with vacuum checks. Without doing the 3-2 block which plate orifice holes would need changed for a stock with bolt ons 94 lt1 firebird? Probably get a TG 93/94 plate to start with as stock plate appeared pretty beat up at check ball holes.

 

Blocking the 3-2 and eliminating the 4th accumulator are two totally different things, they don't go hand-in-hand.

I eliminate the 4th accumulator on every unit I open up, even if it's for "pan drop" mods. It makes 4th apply faster, and you can't get that to apply too harshly.

Blocking 3-2 valves eliminates potential internal leaks. But like I said earlier, the way that you accomplish it will depend on whether you have the early or late 3-2 control valve.

Here is the old and new valve next to each other.
Here are the sizes I used for a '93 transmission, and how to NOT block an early valve.

I've never used the Transgo spring cage; I don't really see a point to it, and neither do most of the guys on this board. If you already have them, it doesn't hurt to add them.

 

Looking at this kit for rebuild. Pretty sure i have to replace some hard parts too so may source from a core trans I have. Does this look like a good kit? Would it be wise to get a BW 3-4 pack for a 4l65e to go with it as an added cost?

 

Looks good, maybe a little more than you need, but looks be a fairly complete kit. Yes, get the 4L65E kit, let you add and extra clutch the 3-4 pack.

 

that kit says (7) 3-4 High Energy frictions, sounds like it already has it. might not be BW bur probably fine.

 

Clutch pack appears to be raybestos. Does everyone replace the low roller clutch sprag, mine appears good? The forward sprag is completely grenaded, races are seriously scored and the sprag came out in pieces. Other than BW 29 element replacement, any upgrades to the assembly or a good resource for a replacement?

 

Many just inspect the low roller set as its not really a trouble area, I generally replace because cheap and why not.
A brand new fwd ASSEMBLY is pricey around 200 dollars, But you can get a good used or refurbished on around 50 , But still would put a new sprag in it.

 

On the low roller clutch I will replace if the rollers easily fall out of the cage with the inter race removed.

 

Ok transmission pro's I need experienced eyes and council. I'm posting pictures of the small pinion gears and the reaction cage for the pinion. The marks and gouges on the pinion make me believe it needs replaced. No side to side movement if that matters. The input drum lip seals gave out and burned up the overrun and forward clutches and they shaved aluminum chunks off of piston sending them through the transmision. It appears the pinion took the damage as the reaction shaft cage looks unharmed. Also the forward sprag grenaded in its cage damaging the race and shell so definately getting that assembly replaced with a 29element BW sprag installed. The other inner race is the center support race that appears, the hardend surface may be damaged and need replaced sprag appeared in good shape but will replace? Lastly the input drum has some scoring in the 3-4 clutch area, is this acceptable to use? One more, is there a way to test the drum and input shaft seal without building drum with pistons and clutches first in case it needs replaced?

 

I would replace PLANET- RING GEAR, SPRAG ASSEMBLY, LOW ROLLER RACE, FRONT SUN GEAR. Looks like alot of debris went through them. And yes always replace sprag and in this case low roller also IMO.

 

Planet and ring gear as matched pair? As well as sungear? Sungear looked ok but you are a pro so i value your expertise. I didnt show the outer ceter support but wasnt shiny like the inner race. Havent checked Pump yet but may take it apart to clean inspect today. Pump is PWM, VB is correct 94 for my car. VB last for inpection as need to be organized while disassembling.

 

They do not have to be a matched set and I doubt you can even buy that way short of from a core . But yes all should be replaced , As for your input drum clean it up check for leaks run it (Ideally if you have the means to do so heat drum on stove top to 290f . This will heat drum but not shaft and remove shaft (comes out pretty easy at that temp , decreases likely hood of further damaging drum on removal ) clean up , inspect splines, Heat drum to 120f shaft in fridge not freezer. coat shaft area and spines that go in drum liberally with this then press back in making sure to line spline split up . Immediately blow through all holes and clean off excess, Will cure in about 72 hours at room temp , 12 hours at 150f in oven . Reassemble drum and check for leaks ) -This is what I do but may seem excessive to some. But certainly check for leaks shaft to drum before disassembly.
The PWM pump will work fine with the 94 vb and plate , You only get into trouble trying to go the other way .

 

Thanks again frank. Is the shaft drum leak testable before splitting? Its dissassembled with no pistons as the seals were blown and leaked. Or a video reference for testing drum with shaft only?

 

Don't have vid , but you can test unloaded but need to find way to block holes at other end. But I will say early 90s and 700r4 drums I find rarely leak as well the engines had no real power back then to strain them much at all.