I have a 4l60e in now with a 3200 stall behind it. Its slipping a bit now. So i guess im wondering which direction to go. Told if built right, the 60 will hold up to 800hp plus. Im above probably 500hp with my build.
Told if using a 80 it is 80 pounds heavier and i will lose hp also.
my converter for my 60 is new and is a 3200 yank. Not cheap. So id rather not have to buy another lol. I can build the tranny if sticking with the 60 but im just looking for advice and y'alls expertise in which way to go 60 or 80.

 

At that power level I would stay With the 60E properly built with leaks addressed it should have no issues. One of the big issues with these is people throw parts at them the best of the best but do not address the leaks . They would honestly if it was the cloice, have been better off using the cheapest of cheap and fixing the leaks with better results.
The BEST PARTS made will last little if any longer if the hydraulic leaks and set up are not right and this is just as true if not more true of the 80E as they are really old now too.

 

Im just getting mail tunes back n forth from a guy using hp tuners. He tells me im well over 500 hp and getting 600 torque. Ive not taken it to a dyno because i wanted to get everything going right first prior. This way im not wasting my time,dyno time and money. Now my trans isn't holding to well. I have all gears but when giving wot you can feel it slipping. Its also hitting rev limiter.
if the 60 is built right it should hold up to 1000 hp from what i read.
I've seen your name all over n i trust in what you say. I been looking at stage 5 kits on ebay but not sure if i should get one or source parts themselves.
Is there a parts list on here to go off of for the correct parts for the build?
Also, thank you for your input and time.
I know a 400 would hold also but i kinda wanna keep the overdrive and my converter. I like driving 2 hours away to spend time with pops n tooling around.

 

you can find my build price link it is pretty detailed by scrolling down, its about as detailed as can possibly be. The we also have a 4l60e build tips ands tricks tread which is very informative ,

 

I have to agree with Frank here. The leaks have to be addressed. O-ringed end plugs, abuse bore plugs, blocking the 3-2 control/downshift valves, OS pressure regulator, addressing the AFL circuit.
maroonmonsterls1 has a post about a vacuum tester he made. I made one from that post years ago. It cost less than $50.

 

I would get a local tuner instead of mail order but that's just me..

 

its not mail. Its by email. I log and send it. He adjusts and sends it. Repeat. Hes reputable.

 

thank you for that information

 

thank you. Might be my phone but i scrolled down and didn't see a link. I will try on my computer when i get a chance.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ts-prices.html

 

thank you, I'll save up for a stage 2

 

Bruh thanks for the clarification we thought you were using Western Union...

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It's heavier, bigger, not as efficient and has taller 1st and 2nd gear. Not a bolt in and changes will need to be made for your car to shift it.

 

I missed that one but sounds like some kid getting told by his uncle daddy how things works in the car world.

Maybe been on his cousin why this thread hasn't gotten much response.

 

you do not have to be a dick ya know

 

thank you

 

yeah no one local. I'll go to a dyno this spring after i get a better trans. Dyno is about close to 5 hours away.