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So what should I shoot for clearance? I’ve got a number of different size steels.
Is the GM spec of 0.060 to 0.085 too loose or should it be around 0.040?
Original springs on the right side for comparison.
Yes. 3-4 clutch clearance should be around .030 to .040 with .060 to .070 on your 2-4 servo travel. These clearances are important for the 2-3 shift timing. The 3-4 clutch clearance will open up once the clutch is applied a few times when the trans is in operation.
Note those springs are considerably stiffer than factory, Be sure you check your clearance dry WITH THE SPRINGS INSTALLED. They do make a difference trust me .
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Note those springs are considerably stiffer than factory, Be sure you check your clearance dry WITH THE SPRINGS INSTALLED. They do make a difference trust me .
Is their any down side to using these taller stiffer springs in a car that won't see much high rpm, such as a longer shift time between the 2/3 shift due to a little bit more clutch slip? Or will it make no noticeable difference.
Is their any down side to using these taller stiffer springs in a car that won't see much high rpm, such as a longer shift time between the 2/3 shift due to a little bit more clutch slip? Or will it make no noticeable difference.
No noted difference , I mean they really don't end up much stiffer when using a taller clutch pack .
I use them in all my builds always have since I discovered them. Readily available , Cheap and snap right into the holder.
But they really like the stock springs do play a part when you are working out clearances. I have stacked sets only to fine i was just a little tight for my taste, Put those in and was perfect.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
IMHO the springs will release the 3/4 clutch faster, during e.g. a 3/4 to 2nd gear downshift, reducing any dragging. I forgot the exact values from an ancient post of mine, but I calculated, that the springs reduce the clamping force on the 3/4 clutch by at most 5%. Keep in mind that GM decided to add these springs at additional cost and complexity; I assume they determined that a better 3/4 clutch release was worth the tiny reduction in clamping force. The Sonnax Smart-Tech input drum, which can hold up to 9 frictions, comes with longer springs to serve the same purpose.
Again, just my opinion.
Yeah I hear ya. If thats the case, and the 3/4 clutch was smoked before you go back together with it you might want to find the cause of why the 3/4 clutch was smoked.
I never replied to this. The 3/4 piston looked a little loose. It didn’t fall off by itself if you held the whole stack vertically.
I replaced it, the overrun piston, and the forward clutch piston with Alto parts.
I air checked it, works OK, no leaks.
I never replied to this. The 3/4 piston looked a little loose. It didn’t fall off by itself if you held the whole stack vertically.
I replaced it, the overrun piston, and the forward clutch piston with Alto parts.
I air checked it, works OK, no leaks.
FOR THE 3-4 MUST CHECKS- ENCAPSULATED CHECK BALL SEALING- FWD ABUSE PLUG- RELIEF BALL IN DRUM SEALING-NO GROOVES AT ALL IN STATOR-SHAFT RINGS-DRUM OF COURSE-LEAKS AT BAND PIN IN CASE AND LEAKS THROUGH 2ND SERVO.
The leaks at band pin area often overlooked and I have found can be pretty severe. You can check them by applying air through the case at 4th feed . You should hear nothing and certainly feel no air exiting the 3rd accum area in case.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
FOR THE 3-4 MUST CHECKS- ENCAPSULATED CHECK BALL SEALING- FWD ABUSE PLUG- RELIEF BALL IN DRUM SEALING-NO GROOVES AT ALL IN STATOR-SHAFT RINGS-DRUM OF COURSE-LEAKS AT BAND PIN IN CASE AND LEAKS THROUGH 2ND SERVO.
The leaks at band pin area often overlooked and I have found can be pretty severe. You can check them by applying air through the case at 4th feed . You should hear nothing and certainly feel no air exiting the 3rd accum area in case.
Frank, another rookie question. Where is the 4th feed?
Everything else checks out OK.
Finally got back to putting the transmission back together.
Pretty sure the input drum is all the way down.
I’m not 100% sure the reverse input drum is all the way down.
I’ve shaken and turned it, this is all I can get it to drop.
Does it look like it needs to go down more or am I OK?
Thanks Frank. I could only lift it up about 1/8” so I’m good.
Appreciate all the help from all you guys.
Just got the pump and new filter in. Only need to put the pan and bellhousing on.
Looks good to me. If you shine your light on the sides of the drum you can see if the reverse drum is splined to the sunshell. You will know if you are or arent, but from that pic it does look like it. To me, when the input drum is fully splined it has a different feel to it. Hard to explain....
Looks good to me. If you shine your light on the sides of the drum you can see if the reverse drum is splined to the sunshell. You will know if you are or arent, but from that pic it does look like it. To me, when the input drum is fully splined it has a different feel to it. Hard to explain....
YES the only thing we can teach "THE FEEL" which I find is an amazingly intuitive and functional tool lol. I can not count how many times I have uttered the words, "That just doesn't feel right " "That just don't sound quite right" lol.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Yes, I could see the tabs on the drum were fitting into the sunshell.
Looking in thru the fluid filter hole I could see I have clearance from the top of the drum to the pump.
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