Procharger + Converter:
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Procharger + Converter: I just tuned my Procharger 5#'s of boost and now the converter is slipping so bad that I ran a 13.4. Blowing right through it. It works great just not at WOT
This isnt the first trouble I have had with it. Its a TCI Super Street Fighter 3500 2.5str. First time it went back to TCI was for a lockup shuddering problem....fixed at no charge and sent back quickly (thumbs up to TCI!) Unfortunatly it broke the tranny with it.
I guess its time to step up to Vig. Which model would be best suited along with which stall speed? vig3600? Multi-Disc to stand up to the procharger?
This isnt the first trouble I have had with it. Its a TCI Super Street Fighter 3500 2.5str. First time it went back to TCI was for a lockup shuddering problem....fixed at no charge and sent back quickly (thumbs up to TCI!) Unfortunatly it broke the tranny with it.
I guess its time to step up to Vig. Which model would be best suited along with which stall speed? vig3600? Multi-Disc to stand up to the procharger?
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I made 385hp and 450 torque unlocked. My 2 passes had 60's around 2.1 and 104-106 mph. Basically stock times.
I drive the car daily, I am not sure about the Yank. I was looking at the Pro Yank Extremes till I saw it takes 2-3 months to get one.
I drive the car daily, I am not sure about the Yank. I was looking at the Pro Yank Extremes till I saw it takes 2-3 months to get one.
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If you are making 400 hp, you don't need the Pro Yank Extreme unless this isn't close to where you will end up when you finish your mods. The Yank SS 3600/3800 would work very well.
Your 60' is worse than stock.
Are you using good tires? If you are running street tires you will always have so-so times. A SuperYank 3500 might work better if traction is an issue.
Your 60' is worse than stock.
Are you using good tires? If you are running street tires you will always have so-so times. A SuperYank 3500 might work better if traction is an issue. Thread Starter
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I am contributing the low HP levels to a UNLOCKED dyno pull and probably the converter slipping then too
I have small cam/headers/off road y-pipe/hooker catback/ + the Procharger D1. I am wanting to push 5#'s through my 4L60E which has been built for HP. Just need a converter to hold up this time, lol
Future plans include a forged block and upping the boost.
I have small cam/headers/off road y-pipe/hooker catback/ + the Procharger D1. I am wanting to push 5#'s through my 4L60E which has been built for HP. Just need a converter to hold up this time, lol
Future plans include a forged block and upping the boost.
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Drag Radials, even if I were on street tires I only trapped 106 and 108.
What stall speed would be a good idea and which company? Is Yank still taking 2-3 months to ship?
What stall speed would be a good idea and which company? Is Yank still taking 2-3 months to ship?
Yank should be at 30 days or less for most converters. Off the shelf Vig 3200 should be available from stock from a sponsor.
I would look for a stall speed that gets you into boost off the line. I assume that you don't make boost until 3500 rpm or so? If so, a true stall around 3600 - 4000 would work. The trick is not to go too high and have the tq from the S/C stretch out the converter. Also if you stay with drag radials, you want to be at the edge of boost coming off the line as you will not hook if you get into boost.
Another option would be to stay close to a 3500 and add a dry 50 shot to get you out of the hole and cool the intake charge.
I would look for a stall speed that gets you into boost off the line. I assume that you don't make boost until 3500 rpm or so? If so, a true stall around 3600 - 4000 would work. The trick is not to go too high and have the tq from the S/C stretch out the converter. Also if you stay with drag radials, you want to be at the edge of boost coming off the line as you will not hook if you get into boost.
Another option would be to stay close to a 3500 and add a dry 50 shot to get you out of the hole and cool the intake charge.
