4l60e And Cryo Smart Techs Please Read
09-28-2004 | 11:56 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7
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From: Arlington, Texas
4l60e And Cryo Smart Techs Please Read Im Converting From A T56 To 4l60e I Need To Know Absolutely Everything I Will Need For The Coversion?
Will I Need The Computer From An Auto Or Can Mine Be Tuned?
Will I Need New Wiring Harness?
I Have Access To Free Cryo, What From The Trans Including The Stall Can I Cryo And At What Temp For How Long?
Where Can I Get A Better Servo Than The Corvette?
What Other Parts Should I Deffinetly Beef Up To Run More Horse Power?
What Stall Should I Use 3000-3200? Brand Or Specifics?
Whats A Baloon Flexplate? What Type Do I Need?
Does My Drive Shaft Have To Be Shortend Or Lengthend?
Is A Ratchet Shifter Really Worth It On This Trans?
Anything Else Any Of You Can Throw At Me Will Help Im New To The Auto Thing. Thanks
Will I Need The Computer From An Auto Or Can Mine Be Tuned?
Will I Need New Wiring Harness?
I Have Access To Free Cryo, What From The Trans Including The Stall Can I Cryo And At What Temp For How Long?
Where Can I Get A Better Servo Than The Corvette?
What Other Parts Should I Deffinetly Beef Up To Run More Horse Power?
What Stall Should I Use 3000-3200? Brand Or Specifics?
Whats A Baloon Flexplate? What Type Do I Need?
Does My Drive Shaft Have To Be Shortend Or Lengthend?
Is A Ratchet Shifter Really Worth It On This Trans?
Anything Else Any Of You Can Throw At Me Will Help Im New To The Auto Thing. Thanks
09-28-2004 | 02:45 PM
#2
The Corvette servo may be your better choice,
seen some folks saying the billet ones can produce
too much force for other components to take.
Converter choice really repends on your cam, the
shiftpoints you want to use, presumably these will
follow from other intake / exhaust mods, power adder
etc.
Let the computer shift and, while you're at it, pick up
a tuning software / cable to teach it the proper
attitude. Major difference in racing and driving when
you train it right.
Monster tranny cooler is not on the list either but a
must-do.
You don't want a "balloon flexplate". Some places build
anti-balooning plates into the converter, I believe it's
meant for very high RPM to keep from changing shape.
If you spin only to stockish RPM then I wouldn't worry
about this one.
As far as general parts shopping I would go read the
ingredients on the FLP, Rossler, any other hi-po
tranny vendor, compile yourself a superset list from
there. Then when you price all the goods it will likely
come down to a better deal, just to buy one with a
good rep and a good warranty.
In the same vein, if you are not heavily (and emotionally)
invested in your car you will likely find it cheaper and
easier to just get a factory A4 car and go nuts with it.
I don't know as I'd bother with cryo treating, dunno how
powdered metal likes it, if at all. I think anything you're
concerned about enough to cryo treat, you'd be better
off with getting a high grade replacement piece for
instead.
Do not believe there's any driveshaft difference other than
the 2.73 A4s got the steel shaft.
PCM is the same, tune data differs, if you get the right
software you can download an A4 tune and stuff it in.
seen some folks saying the billet ones can produce
too much force for other components to take.
Converter choice really repends on your cam, the
shiftpoints you want to use, presumably these will
follow from other intake / exhaust mods, power adder
etc.
Let the computer shift and, while you're at it, pick up
a tuning software / cable to teach it the proper
attitude. Major difference in racing and driving when
you train it right.
Monster tranny cooler is not on the list either but a
must-do.
You don't want a "balloon flexplate". Some places build
anti-balooning plates into the converter, I believe it's
meant for very high RPM to keep from changing shape.
If you spin only to stockish RPM then I wouldn't worry
about this one.
As far as general parts shopping I would go read the
ingredients on the FLP, Rossler, any other hi-po
tranny vendor, compile yourself a superset list from
there. Then when you price all the goods it will likely
come down to a better deal, just to buy one with a
good rep and a good warranty.
In the same vein, if you are not heavily (and emotionally)
invested in your car you will likely find it cheaper and
easier to just get a factory A4 car and go nuts with it.
I don't know as I'd bother with cryo treating, dunno how
powdered metal likes it, if at all. I think anything you're
concerned about enough to cryo treat, you'd be better
off with getting a high grade replacement piece for
instead.
Do not believe there's any driveshaft difference other than
the 2.73 A4s got the steel shaft.
PCM is the same, tune data differs, if you get the right
software you can download an A4 tune and stuff it in.
