Transmission temperature
#1
Transmission temperature
I've just installed a Tci 3500,with a 16000gvw cooler,in a 2002 ws6 TA.The gauge got up to 210f,is that too hot for a 4l60e?On the highway it goes about 180f,but when I start city driving the temp goes up rapidly to 210f,Do I need a larger trans cooler ,or would it be better to add a deep pan,or both?
#2
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I would go with the 24k gvw. I think that is what most people get. I see ~150-180* on the highway as well, but I have only seen 200*+ maybe twice, under extreme stop and go situations. 210* won't fry it, but is not good for it. I am under the impression that ~220* is the limit and once you pass that you may want to consider shutting the car off to let it cool and DEFINATELY don't punch it.
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Where is your cooler mounted, does it get sufficient air flow? You might want to consider getting one of those coolers with a fan mounted on it if you don't think it's getting enough air flow. I have my cooler mounted right behind the nostril in my grill. In the summer on the highway I have never seen over 150* and in traffic it has gotten up to 200* on the hottest day. If I remember right my cooler is only a 16 or 18k.
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The only time I've seen 200 is when I was throwing a P0757 code and didn't have all the gears....normally I'll see anywhere from 130-180...depending on if it's highway...traffic lights...stop and go traffic...etc. I forget what size cooler I have...but it's the largest size Hayden sells. I've also got the deep pan.
Another question for you...when you're driving around town...what gear do you have the car in? When I know I'm not going to be hitting highway speeds...I'll put the car in 3rd (D for the camaro folks) and let the convertor lock. I've got it set to lock 40-45ish. I usually do that because if I kept her in drive (OD for camaro) she'll often shift into 4th, but I won't reach high enough speed to lock the convertor (50ish). If I happen to get up highway speeds, I just bump her up into 4th then. I've noticed the temps can build quickly when the convertor isn't locked...but will drop rather quickly once it is.
Another question for you...when you're driving around town...what gear do you have the car in? When I know I'm not going to be hitting highway speeds...I'll put the car in 3rd (D for the camaro folks) and let the convertor lock. I've got it set to lock 40-45ish. I usually do that because if I kept her in drive (OD for camaro) she'll often shift into 4th, but I won't reach high enough speed to lock the convertor (50ish). If I happen to get up highway speeds, I just bump her up into 4th then. I've noticed the temps can build quickly when the convertor isn't locked...but will drop rather quickly once it is.
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The deep, extra capacity, finned aluminum pans work very well. I have the TCI, + 2qt. model. Many people, who have FTRA setups, etc., are mounting their trans coolers where they won't do much good in traffic, and in the staging lanes at the track.... Be smart. Like She said: Drive around town in "Drive" w/a stall converter....and don't hot-lap your car at the track---cool it down between passes. Getting caught in traffic.....there's not much you can do about that....maybe a remote fan switch to run your fans continuously. Cars are gonna heat up fast in traffic....unless you want to invest in the big Be-Kool or extra capacity SLP radiator and a electric water pump.....$$$. Bottom line is: If that transmission fluid gets real hot, go easy till it's cooled down. WJ
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#8
All I have to cool my tranny is the 24,000 b&m cooler mounted in front of the radiator. My trans temp is always right around 140. I have only seen it get up to 180 a few times in the summer when I'm pounding on it. I have a vig 3800 stall so I would think if it keeps my tranny cool, then it should work pretty well for you too.
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Originally Posted by rufretic
All I have to cool my tranny is the 24,000 b&m cooler mounted in front of the radiator. My trans temp is always right around 140. I have only seen it get up to 180 a few times in the summer when I'm pounding on it. I have a vig 3800 stall so I would think if it keeps my tranny cool, then it should work pretty well for you too.
#11
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It will make some difference whether you have the cooler pre-radiator or post-radiator, as far as plumbing the lines. I run mine post radiator in the summer (maximum cooling) and pre radiator in the winter (trans warms up quicker).
#12
Originally Posted by gwj
It will make some difference whether you have the cooler pre-radiator or post-radiator, as far as plumbing the lines. I run mine post radiator in the summer (maximum cooling) and pre radiator in the winter (trans warms up quicker).
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Originally Posted by SmokingWS6
I wonder if you might have other problems. I've never seen mine go over 150
i made 9 dyno pulls on it, then drove the crap out of it to check on my tune back in july and it only hit 180.
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I will see 210 on the hottest of days in heavy traffic... but I have the FTRA problem. This summer I went ahead and demmeled a small flap in the ram-air column so it forces it thru the tranny cooler. This of course does no good, stuck in beach traffic.
The good news, is once I get moving again it cools down pretty fast. With Virginia "winter" here I cannot remember the last time I saw 180. If I remember my chart, things do not start to break down till 240... but you do not want to be driving around with 220.
The good news, is once I get moving again it cools down pretty fast. With Virginia "winter" here I cannot remember the last time I saw 180. If I remember my chart, things do not start to break down till 240... but you do not want to be driving around with 220.
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Yeah, I hear you where the cooler is mounted, mine is the same. What I meant was whether you have the cooler plumbing on the top radiator line (return to trans) or the bottom radiator line (input to radiator). You will get more cooling effect plumbing between the top radiator fitting and line, because that places the aftermarket cooler AFTER the trans cooler in your radiator. If plumbed into the bottom radiator fitting, that places the cooler BEFORE the cooler in your radiator, which still helps, but will not cool quite as efficiently because the radiator will keep the temp elevated to a certain point (not too bad a thing in cold weather maybe-not so much cold thick fluid trying to circulate for a longer period of time 'til warm up).
That's my opinion, FWIW.
That's my opinion, FWIW.
#16
Originally Posted by gwj
Yeah, I hear you where the cooler is mounted, mine is the same. What I meant was whether you have the cooler plumbing on the top radiator line (return to trans) or the bottom radiator line (input to radiator). You will get more cooling effect plumbing between the top radiator fitting and line, because that places the aftermarket cooler AFTER the trans cooler in your radiator. If plumbed into the bottom radiator fitting, that places the cooler BEFORE the cooler in your radiator, which still helps, but will not cool quite as efficiently because the radiator will keep the temp elevated to a certain point (not too bad a thing in cold weather maybe-not so much cold thick fluid trying to circulate for a longer period of time 'til warm up).
That's my opinion, FWIW.
That's my opinion, FWIW.
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Originally Posted by ShadowLightCSU
Where's the best deal on gauges and a pod?
from what i've seen, gauges usually don't differentiate more than a couple dollars from place place so you can pretty much pick anywhere you want.
i have ultra-lite gauges, the 2 1/16" electrical trans temp was about 45 dollars. a single pod is about $15 and a dual pod goes for about $20.
#19
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A question from a LS1 newbie, I just installed my B&M Super Cooler 24k GVW, (actually took it off my thirdgen) and I noticed the trans cooler gets HOT (to the touch) REALLY FAST (less than 2 min of engine idling). My thirdgen never got this hot. Do the 4L60Es really run that hot?