I've heard good things about this kit thru the research Ive done using the search button. However when I called up one of our sponsers to purchase the kit. They siad they dont sell them, because everything you can do with that kit can be done thru tuning. Is this true? I was calling to buy a 3500 stall converter, shift kit, and cooler. I was going to get a tune after the install anyways does this mean I do not need the Transgo??

 

You cannot do the same thing with the edit. You can raise line pressure at part throttle, but not at WOT. The Trans-Go Performance Shift kit can change part throttle shift firmness, as well as the WOT shifts. This is the best way to go. You do not want to firm up part throttle shifts in the vast majority of cases. The "modified" Trans-Go Performance Shift kits, can give you nice part throttle shifts, along with firm WOT shifts, by working with the accumulation, changing band/clutch feed hole sizes, etc.

 

You can get most of the desired -effects- by tuning but
it's like, you can make the horse go faster by whipping it
or you can make it go faster by putting proper shoes on
its hooves.

Some things tuning will, and some things it won't touch.
All you can really do is mess around the commanded line
pressures and points. But upping pressure slows release
as it speeds apply, etc. while changing the right orifice
can fix things more surgically.

Presuming you know what you're doing... the Trans-Go
has a pretty "busy" kit and not-so-great instructions,
personally I don't like the looks of the one I've got in the
box, lot of opportunity to mess up. So it just sits there
waiting for "some day". If you're getting it done though,
people seem to have good results and few complaints.

 

I did mine myself, its a little tricky, but the results were great. I used 2 washers and have a 4000 stall. It shifts just right now.

 

I Bought The Kit! Do I Need To Tell The Tranny Shop Anything Special? Or Just Give Them The Kit?

 

You need to tell them how many washers to put in it for firmness. This is personal pref. though. Where did you get your kit from. I got mine from pro built. It's their modified kit. I'll let you know next week how it does with my new converter.

 

I'll say it again, theres more to it than washers. The installer needs to drill several holes in the seperator plate, these holes vary in size depending on application and desired shift firmness. Only you know what you want and I'm sure the trans guy doesn't want to take it apart a second time to fine tune it to your likings.
I installed mine, operation wasn't perfect so I took the valve body out to make changes to get it right. Every trans and every vehicle will need different things done to get it to feel the way the driver wants it to feel so there are no majic numbers on what size holes to drill.
You sometimes need to install it to get a baseline feel and take it back apart to make changes, but you need to know what changes to make to improve the feel..........

 

What parts are there to install that could be tricky or, if done improperly, could fry your tranny? I'm having one put in with my upcoming stall, but I'm just scared that whoever puts it in might mess it up and I'll be stuck with a busted 4L60E.

 

Maybe the different shift valves, pwm conversion valve, etc. But you should notice weird operation right away if something was done wrong.
I think the recommeded vb plate hole sizes are a bit on the conservative side so this is where experience helps.
Like I said, I took mine back apart to make changes. I did nothing but post an accurate description of what it was doing and what I'd like it to do, Pro Built told me what to change and it worked, thats experience.

You might check around for a shop that uses transgo kits, I've been in a few. One shop had two stacks of transgo boxes up to the ceiling in their rebuild room. Another shop the owner was showing me a transgo kit for a 4L80E and telling me he uses their products, (maybe just the problem solver kits not always the performance ones), on almost every rebuild he does.

 

Maybe you could post a little about which holes you
ended up changing, why, and results? That would be
helpful. It all looks like voodoo to me, and too many
to choose from.

 

its the holes in the seperator plate that get drilled to different sizes depending on what kind of stall you have, how hard you want it to shift. In the kit sould be several drill bits all of different sizes... I know its hard to decide what you want it to do without knowing what its going to do if you drill it with x-size drill bit. Thats the problem i had along with how many damn washers to put in. You could always do it the right way and use the smallest settings and work your way up(means taking it apart several times) to get it to where you like it. I just added all the washer,and drilled everything on the larger side. Works great for me, 1-2 shift is hard and just slightly breaks the tires(nitto drs)2-3 shift is not so noticable as is 3-4. What i really did like about the kit is the no lag downshifting, you know when your on the highway and it takes like litterally 2 seconds to shift from 4th or 3rd to second or first.. Thats all gone and is much more responsive to your pedal input. The kit also allows you to change gears when you feal like it and not be limited to the computer...As for tuning i did both(did tuning first) than said i wanted it better and got the kit. The kit is much better than programming could ever do... In any event you will need programming if you get the kit, you must delete or lessen torque management as a hard shift will trigger it.

 

The hand written notes are the first settings I used. Judging by shift feel stock and knowing second gear can be made to shift brutally hard by adding accumulator washers and adjusting the band.
I also wanted to get rid of the plastic second accumulator piston and use an aluminum one. The only thing I had on hand was a 700R4 accumulator housing and piston. The travel on this is equal to the stock one with one washer, so I used one washer, in other words mine has one washer but it has the same travel as the stock one would have with two.
I also did my own mod and took a fourth accumulator feed hole plug out of a transgo 700R4 2&3 kit and blocked the fourth accumulator.

The result...firm enough 1-2, weak 2-3 good 3-4.

Took it apart, removed the second accumulator washer.
I drilled the band release to .110
Drilled the third feed to .130
Left fourth at .110

The result...better but slight delay into third.
Now I shimmed the second servo as per the instructions and was told it's kind of odd to use both servo shims. So I took those out.

Result....better but very slight delay into third. Took a pressure check running, noticed a spike in pressure at each shift point.
Checked out HP Tuners and messed with the 2-3 shift modifier, raised the pressure.

Result...what I wanted, maybe not what anyone on this board would want but it's exactly how I wanted it.

Now I have a stock converter, notice how their recommendations for hole sizes with a high stall converter are smaller than what I used?
Smaller converter will soften shifts so the feed holes should be recommended bigger than what they have IMO.

Also you have to realize this all depends on the internal clutch clearances in the trans.

My trans had a weak 2-3 shift, a big enough feed hole and other stuff fixes that.
The proper fix would be to take the trans out and tighten up the 3-4 clutch clearance.
I've had the same exact problem with at least one 700R4, never messed with the feed hole sizes, I pulled the trans and adjusted the 3-4 clutch from the factory spec of .090 down to .035 and it provided the same results as drilling feed holes, adjusting upshift pressure modifiers etc.
The point is you can't tell someone to drill the third feed to whatever because their trans might have come from the factory on the tight side. Tight side would use a smaller hole, large clearance might need a bigger feed to obtain the same shift feel.

Also notice this is only one of five pages of instructions. There is more to it than this.

 

Kit is easy to install and worth the $$.

 

Do you need to reprogram on any shift kit install, or only when you go to the extra-firm shifts? I've got a 3200-stall converter and want to just get the shifts feeling the way they should (not so mushy). I'd hate to have to get custom reprogramming just for that.