Okay,
I'll keep it simple. When to go get dynoed yesterday and in my dynos i have that huge spike (in the early stage) due to the ST-3500. Lost plenty of RWHP. How do I lock this converter up with Ed Wright Tuning. Can i splice a Wire or tap into something? Im very disappointed with the numbers but its because that Yank is sucking up alot of ponies. i wish i could post the dyno but i dont know how. <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">

thank you

 

It's been a while, but I THINK the wire to tap into on the PCM is tan w/ a black stripe for lockup. I haven't looked at a '98 PCM in close to a year, so you might ask someone else to verify that.
Do you have a scanned pic of the dyno graph? If so, I'll be glad to host it in my webpage and post it up. Just e-mail it to me. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> What were the unlocked/locked #'s?

 

[quote]Originally posted by Trevor D:
<strong>It's been a while, but I THINK the wire to tap into on the PCM is tan w/ a black stripe for lockup. I haven't looked at a '98 PCM in close to a year, so you might ask someone else to verify that.
Do you have a scanned pic of the dyno graph? If so, I'll be glad to host it in my webpage and post it up. Just e-mail it to me. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> What were the unlocked/locked #'s?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Trevor,
I'll find out for sure what wire it is cuz i dont want to be tapping in to the wrong wire and having the Cars PCM throw a punch at me <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> Trevor, i will try my best to get a scanned pick and have you post it, thanx bud.

My numbers were ( i didn't want to give them out cuz i know that people are gonna get waaay to carried away with it) were:
Unlocked: 341RWHP/380lb. That stupid 'spike' in the begginning of the dyno (due to the converter unlocking i believe) is whats killin me.

 

What kind of Numbers Could I be looking at If I locked up this converter? I was very surprised to see how much these High Stalls Suck up Horsepower. Kinda makes you realize why more six speeds dyno on a more frequent basis than autos <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

 

Jack, my guess is you will be in the low-mid 360rwhp range after the torque converter locks up. Also, your torque will come down to a more "normal" number. Also, list your complete mods if you could.

 

Jason,
okay thanks, heres a full list of mods:

Thunder 224/224 114 cam
FLP's w ORP's through Cutout
Ed Wright Tuning
ASP pulley
SLP air lid
Yank ST-3500

A/F ratio was right on the $$$ with a 12.9

 

Hey I think its the #42 pcm wire that you ground out. My ST3800 is pretty efficent, I only lose 10rwhp with it unlocked. You should be around 360rwhp with the converter unlocked.

 

SSBoy - I don't know what you mean by red or blue,but it's in the group of wires closest to the firewall.I just checked again & on a 98 it's definately pin # 32 just to clear up any doubts.The lite will come on as soon as you manually lock it.The only way to get the lite out is to clear the code with Atap or equivalent.I'm still experimenting on what RPM to lock it at,but for your combo on the dyno I would think that's about right.The switch won't affect normal lockup until you use it.Once you use it ,you HAVE to clear the code it sets,before the converter will lock normally again,just turning off the switch will NOT clear the code.

 

It definately is pin # 32 ,the tan wire with the black tracer as Trevor said.Tap into that wire,run a wire thru the firewall to one side of a on/off switch.Mount the switch where you can easily reach it during a run.Mine is low on the drivers side of the console.Find a good ground under the dash & run a wire from that ground to the other side of the switch.Mine throws the SES light everytime,but does lock the converter.After it throws the code it won't automatically go into lock-up,you'll need to use the switch until you clear the code.Remember to shut the switch off when you come to a stop in gear,or it will stall.

 

[quote]Originally posted by AFTICA:
<strong>It definately is pin # 32 ,the tan wire with the black tracer as Trevor said.Tap into that wire,run a wire thru the firewall to one side of a on/off switch.Mount the switch where you can easily reach it during a run.Mine is low on the drivers side of the console.Find a good ground under the dash & run a wire from that ground to the other side of the switch.Mine throws the SES light everytime,but does lock the converter.After it throws the code it won't automatically go into lock-up,you'll need to use the switch until you clear the code.Remember to shut the switch off when you come to a stop in gear,or it will stall.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Aftica
thanks. Now thats pin 32 on the red or blue? You said that it will throw an SES light as soon as you manually lock it up? When will that light come off? I assume you lock up your converter in 3rd gear around 5800 rpms? I just didn't fully understand when you said "you need to use the switch untill you clear the code". Does this mean as soon as you turn the switch off the SES light will go off?

I take it a lock up switch does NOT affect the cars regular occurance of lock up in the city/highway?
thanks