4L60E vacuum modulator do you need to adjust it?
4L60E vacuum modulator do you need to adjust it? When you put a vacuum modulator on a 4L60E do you need to fine tune an adjustment screw like you do on a th350/400?
I would guess no, because it only controls the line pressure, it does not have as much control over the shift points as a modulator in an older trans does. Am I correct with this?
I would guess no, because it only controls the line pressure, it does not have as much control over the shift points as a modulator in an older trans does. Am I correct with this?
Ok, thanks.
I'm going to be changing converters so I was in the process of ordering parts to upgrade the trans while it's out.
I got the 3-4 clutches from ProBuilt and seen the vacuum modulator kit.
I think it would be best to do the trans mods and converter, then do the modulator later. Like 50 miles or so later. I don't want to get it together and have a handful of problems not knowing what caused what.
Also going to search a bit more on this.
If anyone wants to add to this post please do.
I'm going to be changing converters so I was in the process of ordering parts to upgrade the trans while it's out.
I got the 3-4 clutches from ProBuilt and seen the vacuum modulator kit.
I think it would be best to do the trans mods and converter, then do the modulator later. Like 50 miles or so later. I don't want to get it together and have a handful of problems not knowing what caused what.
Also going to search a bit more on this.
If anyone wants to add to this post please do.
No Problem there. The mod kit would be something to do when the trans is out though. As you have to drill through the case and then tap it for a pipe fitting. 1/8NPT. Then you take out the 1-2 accumulator housing and pull the force motor. Then replace with the vacume mod and there is a hose that goes to the fitting you put in the case (vai drill and tap). Also a little grinding has to be done on the 1-2 acc. for the vacume mod to fit on some 60's. It's no big deal though. I would probibly do it all at once. Just so much easier to do with the trans out.
most problems that you could have when its all said and done are pretty cut and dry as to what caused it. if you replace 3-4 clutches and 2 or 3 other things that affect 3-4 operation then I could see it being a question of what did what but with what you plan on doing that shouldn't be a concern.
I am doing quite a few things actually.
Plus I always advised people to not use used converters. The converter I have is used but has been cut open and rebuilt, not something I would normally use but I believe the guy I got it from is honest about the history of it and it should be ok. But I'm expecting to have to do some tuning for just the converter change.
The 3-4 clutches and new band should give no problems, it already has a transgo kit but I am going to make some changes to that for the converter, using ProBuilts advice. Enlarging 2nd, 3rd, 4th feeds and the 2nd band release holes. And a beast sun shell.
I can handle the mechanicals but if it starts spitting out trouble codes I'm going to go nuts. I do have HPTuners so that shouldn't even be a problem. I worry too much.
Plus I always advised people to not use used converters. The converter I have is used but has been cut open and rebuilt, not something I would normally use but I believe the guy I got it from is honest about the history of it and it should be ok. But I'm expecting to have to do some tuning for just the converter change.
The 3-4 clutches and new band should give no problems, it already has a transgo kit but I am going to make some changes to that for the converter, using ProBuilts advice. Enlarging 2nd, 3rd, 4th feeds and the 2nd band release holes. And a beast sun shell.
I can handle the mechanicals but if it starts spitting out trouble codes I'm going to go nuts. I do have HPTuners so that shouldn't even be a problem. I worry too much.
Last edited by jxaxsxoxn; Nov 12, 2005 at 08:33 PM.
Before you grind on the accumulator housing to get the modulator to fit, install the modulator into the valve body and with no springs in the accumulator housing, place it behind the modulator and see if the bolts line up. If they do, dont grind the housing. When you are doing the final install on the accumulator, start the outside bolt first and use this bolt as a pivot point to sort of swing the housing behind the modulator. It makes for a better fit of the modulator into the valve body. Also just to make things a little eaiser, take the bolt that installs on the front side of the housing and grind the washer flange off of the head. You'll see what I mean when you do it. Also if you are using a higher stall speed converter, dont grind the pin. And I agree with whats been said. Its eaiser to install while on the bench. Watch out for cuttings when you drill the case. Grease the area well to catch the cuttings. Enjoy the shift!
Mec
Mec
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks all for the replies and advice.
Sounds easy enough. What does grinding the pin do?
Is this something you can usually install and run or does it typically need to have an initial adjustment after a test run?
The ProBuilt kit says it comes with a pacifier so you get no trouble codes, I'm assuming this plugs into the force motor wiring and provides resistance similiar to the force motor so the computer thinks it's still there, is this correct?
What are the chances I put in a 10" 3000 rpm converter and the vacuum modulator and get no trouble codes?
Sounds easy enough. What does grinding the pin do?
Is this something you can usually install and run or does it typically need to have an initial adjustment after a test run?
The ProBuilt kit says it comes with a pacifier so you get no trouble codes, I'm assuming this plugs into the force motor wiring and provides resistance similiar to the force motor so the computer thinks it's still there, is this correct?
What are the chances I put in a 10" 3000 rpm converter and the vacuum modulator and get no trouble codes?
Right there is a few different pin lengths, there is a chart to define each length so you can decide which is right for you. I do not use the pacifier though, I knock the snout out of the force motor and leave it plugged in and zip tie it over by the shift noids.
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I agree with Greaseymec on the vacuum modulator installation, you want the 2nd gear accumulator should fit tight abainst the vacuum modulator, as you want it to act as a clamp on it. The pacifier works just fine "as is". With the 9.5" torque converter "do not" grind the pin, as I say in the modified instructions.
