Fuddle 3000 stall review. long/detailed
12-13-2005, 05:31 PM
#1
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Fuddle 3000 stall review. long/detailed I've had my fuddle in my car now for about 3 month's and wanted to put out a quick review on my experience's for other's considering a higher stall converter.
After a lot of research I had pretty much narrowed it to a 2600 to a 3000 stall do to my 2.73 geared Z-28. To help me decide I called John at fuddle. He really took the time to listen to what I wanted and suggested his 3000 stall w/a 2.0 STR.
I won't talk about the install, cooler, etc. It's been covered countless time's.
First time starting it up it surged ahead just a bit just a bit, even though it was in park. It was'nt a huge leap or anything dangerous, just a surge like a rearing cat.
There was a little slip moving from a standstill, like a light, but like everyone has said, you get used to it. For me that took about 15 minutes. I really don't think I could ever go back to a stocker after this. I liked how it made my magnaflow cb rumble a bit more taking off form a stop.
After the break in period I actually had to re-learn how to launch my car.
Before the converter I could just about go wot from a stop [street tires] and with a bit of spin put the pedal to the floor almost as soon as I was rolling.
Now I found that if I used that approach I coudn't beat a kid on a mountain bike. It fry's the tires!
It took some practice, but I've finally got it down. Still, I'm going to get some dr's this spring.
From a stop the car storm's out of the hole like it's *** is on fire. Untill I experienced this for myself I never would have believed it. It's a rush! I mean it will slam you back into the seat. Seriously.
That 40 mph dead spot when you mash the pedal?
Major improvement!
Con's?
Gas milage in town dropped a bit. But I'm sure most of it is how I drive it.
sometime's when I come to a stop quickly the rpm's will bounce a couple time's before settling at about 550 rpm. [lighter weight converter makes for less recipricating weight to give a steady idle from a quick drop in engine speed] Bumping up the idle would cure that however.
Thats it.
No codes have been thrown, shift's normally, lock's up at around 38 mph, so highway milage has not changed a bit.
I can't wait for my dr's and for the spring weather to warm the pavement for better traction.
For anyone sitting on the fence about getting a higher stall, I hope this help's!
Have fun.
After a lot of research I had pretty much narrowed it to a 2600 to a 3000 stall do to my 2.73 geared Z-28. To help me decide I called John at fuddle. He really took the time to listen to what I wanted and suggested his 3000 stall w/a 2.0 STR.
I won't talk about the install, cooler, etc. It's been covered countless time's.
First time starting it up it surged ahead just a bit just a bit, even though it was in park. It was'nt a huge leap or anything dangerous, just a surge like a rearing cat.
There was a little slip moving from a standstill, like a light, but like everyone has said, you get used to it. For me that took about 15 minutes. I really don't think I could ever go back to a stocker after this. I liked how it made my magnaflow cb rumble a bit more taking off form a stop.
After the break in period I actually had to re-learn how to launch my car.
Before the converter I could just about go wot from a stop [street tires] and with a bit of spin put the pedal to the floor almost as soon as I was rolling.
Now I found that if I used that approach I coudn't beat a kid on a mountain bike. It fry's the tires!
It took some practice, but I've finally got it down. Still, I'm going to get some dr's this spring.
From a stop the car storm's out of the hole like it's *** is on fire. Untill I experienced this for myself I never would have believed it. It's a rush! I mean it will slam you back into the seat. Seriously.
That 40 mph dead spot when you mash the pedal?
Major improvement!
Con's?
Gas milage in town dropped a bit. But I'm sure most of it is how I drive it.
sometime's when I come to a stop quickly the rpm's will bounce a couple time's before settling at about 550 rpm. [lighter weight converter makes for less recipricating weight to give a steady idle from a quick drop in engine speed] Bumping up the idle would cure that however.
Thats it.
No codes have been thrown, shift's normally, lock's up at around 38 mph, so highway milage has not changed a bit.
I can't wait for my dr's and for the spring weather to warm the pavement for better traction.
For anyone sitting on the fence about getting a higher stall, I hope this help's!
Have fun.
12-13-2005, 09:23 PM
#4
Did u get a tune to change shift points? I have a 3400 stall on the way from fuddle, along with a set of 3:73 gears. Have 2:73s right now. Good bye street tires! Looking for some better times this spring.
12-14-2005, 04:18 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by Blk02Ls1A4
Hmmm... So you have a 3000 2.0 converter with the 2.73 gears? What rpm range do you use in "normal" street driving, before and after the converter?
12-14-2005, 04:27 AM
#6
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Originally Posted by Dino98T/A
Did u get a tune to change shift points? I have a 3400 stall on the way from fuddle, along with a set of 3:73 gears. Have 2:73s right now. Good bye street tires! Looking for some better times this spring.
Anybody?
12-14-2005, 12:14 PM
#7
I had mine tuned after my 3400/2.1 fuddle. Got the idle raised a bit to stop the bit of surge that was there, lowered the shift points a bit for the 1-2 and 2-3 shift (2-3 was hitting limiter) just in case of a lil slippage (N20)
In my eyes the tune was well worth it, as it made sure everything was operating the way it was supposed to, and I also took torque management off.
Good things
In my eyes the tune was well worth it, as it made sure everything was operating the way it was supposed to, and I also took torque management off.
Good things
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12-14-2005, 12:54 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by Azhigher
I had mine tuned after my 3400/2.1 fuddle. Got the idle raised a bit to stop the bit of surge that was there, lowered the shift points a bit for the 1-2 and 2-3 shift (2-3 was hitting limiter) just in case of a lil slippage (N20)
In my eyes the tune was well worth it, as it made sure everything was operating the way it was supposed to, and I also took torque management off.
Good things
In my eyes the tune was well worth it, as it made sure everything was operating the way it was supposed to, and I also took torque management off.
Good things
I didn't get a tune because it was shifting below redline and seemed to be pulling just fine. I'm not sure it could be improved much by adjusting my shiftpoints.
12-14-2005, 02:12 PM
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When I ran my old 3000 I never messed with the settings at all. Its just big enough to put on a smile on your face from every light, or pass 
, but small enough shouldnt need, or gain anything from a "tune". I really liked with with John @ Fuddle as well, very knowledgable, and helpful, even when I pester him about the same things everytime I order or just chat. Havent dealt with a sponsor that goes out of there was as much as they have either. Glad you like your TC, not trade that one in for an upgraded model around 4000 stall
, but small enough shouldnt need, or gain anything from a "tune". I really liked with with John @ Fuddle as well, very knowledgable, and helpful, even when I pester him about the same things everytime I order or just chat. Havent dealt with a sponsor that goes out of there was as much as they have either. Glad you like your TC, not trade that one in for an upgraded model around 4000 stall
12-14-2005, 06:09 PM
#10
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hey DannyZ, i was just curious - did you install this yourself, and if not how much did it cost to install? Also, did you get a shift kit, as I've heard that its advisable? Thanks. ALso, how much was the converter itself? ha sorry bout all the questions and any responses will be appreciated
12-15-2005, 04:22 AM
#11
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My brother and I put the stall in, but it wasn't a good time. Some of the bolt's were tough to get too, and my garage was freezing. If I'd had more experience and it were warmer I'm sure it would have been easier.
I see your in kansas. Man, if your garage is heated cool, if not it would be worth it to rent a good heater as I was on my under the car from about 7:00 p.m. to about 3 or 4 a.m. But like I said, I'm far from a good mechanic.
I didn't get a shift kit. I heard that it wasn't really needed with a 3000 stall and after driving my car for awhile now I have to agree. The shift's are a little bit softer, but thats all.
My conveter was 450.00 total, including shipping. That is a great value for what you are getting. TCI is the closest one price wise, but the one I wanted was still about 40 dollar's more.
Which ever brand you go with, I recomend speaking with a tech from the company as there's more then just what size stall you want,[ future mod's, street tire's or drag radial's, gear ratio, etc]
But dude, once you get that bad boy put in you will know what it's like to ride in a slingshot!!!
I see your in kansas. Man, if your garage is heated cool, if not it would be worth it to rent a good heater as I was on my under the car from about 7:00 p.m. to about 3 or 4 a.m. But like I said, I'm far from a good mechanic.
I didn't get a shift kit. I heard that it wasn't really needed with a 3000 stall and after driving my car for awhile now I have to agree. The shift's are a little bit softer, but thats all.
My conveter was 450.00 total, including shipping. That is a great value for what you are getting. TCI is the closest one price wise, but the one I wanted was still about 40 dollar's more.
Which ever brand you go with, I recomend speaking with a tech from the company as there's more then just what size stall you want,[ future mod's, street tire's or drag radial's, gear ratio, etc]
But dude, once you get that bad boy put in you will know what it's like to ride in a slingshot!!!
12-15-2005, 08:26 AM
#12
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I have a Y3000 2.0 STR coupled to 3.73's, with a TransGo shift kit (#3 washer), and a Superior billet race grade 2-4 Servo, in my 01 Z28. I have a full compliment of BMR rear suspension parts, coupled to SLP 3 point sub frame connectors.
The point I am trying to make is that from a dead stop WOT launch, I "chirp" the Michelin Pilot Sport tires a little, and go from "Farfegnugen, to Fukenmoven" WITHOUT roasting the tires.
Beef up your suspension, and you will obtain the launch results you are looking for.
SteveC
The point I am trying to make is that from a dead stop WOT launch, I "chirp" the Michelin Pilot Sport tires a little, and go from "Farfegnugen, to Fukenmoven" WITHOUT roasting the tires.
Beef up your suspension, and you will obtain the launch results you are looking for.
SteveC
Last edited by SteveC; 12-16-2005 at 07:49 AM.
12-15-2005, 04:23 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by SteveC
I have a Y3000 2.0 STR coupled to 3.73's, with a TransGo shift kit (#3 washer), and a Superior billet race grade 2-4 Servo, in my 01 Z28. I have a full compliment of BMR rear suspension parts, coupled to SLP 3 point sub frame connectors.
The point I am trying to make is that from a dead stop WOT launch, I "chirp" the Michelin Pilot Sport tires a little, and go from "Farfegnugen, to Fukenmoven" WITHOUT roating the tires.
Beef up your suspension, and you will obtain the launch results you are looking for.
SteveC
The point I am trying to make is that from a dead stop WOT launch, I "chirp" the Michelin Pilot Sport tires a little, and go from "Farfegnugen, to Fukenmoven" WITHOUT roating the tires.
Beef up your suspension, and you will obtain the launch results you are looking for.
SteveC
What all rear susp. part's did you upgrade?
Did the sfc's really help that much?
And who did you have put them in, a body shop or can any weld shop do it?
Sorry for all the question's but any help is appreaciated.
12-15-2005, 06:08 PM
#14
check my sig, i think it speaks for itself in terms of the converter performance. bear in mind, the only motor mod is a lid and i was on the stock tune at the time, tqm managed to scrub 3 mph from my trap speed in the EIGHTH mile...i'd hate to see what it did to my 1/4 trap..
12-16-2005, 01:10 AM
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Yeah I'm thinking about stalling my new car again. (Red Z had a Fuddle 3400 2.2 in it). I want the car to be a bit more streetable this time, so I'm thinking of possibly going with a 3000 or 3200 this time. Glad to hear you like it!
12-16-2005, 03:32 PM
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Very good review.
I've got a 4000/2.8 in a 3600 lbs car with 3.42 gears. For an everyday driver I'd never go under a 3000 stall, and I'd highly recommend at least a 3200 stall but would really prefer a 3500 stall.
I think if you ask anyone who has extensively driver a stalled car if they'd go back to a car with a stock converter, you'd get a resounding no. I know I never could go back to stock stall. The car just wouldnt feel right.
I've got a 4000/2.8 in a 3600 lbs car with 3.42 gears. For an everyday driver I'd never go under a 3000 stall, and I'd highly recommend at least a 3200 stall but would really prefer a 3500 stall.
I think if you ask anyone who has extensively driver a stalled car if they'd go back to a car with a stock converter, you'd get a resounding no. I know I never could go back to stock stall. The car just wouldnt feel right.
12-17-2005, 06:58 PM
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I drove my stock-stalled 00 for around a year and a half, then got a 3400 2.2. Loved it, but in a weird twist, ended up buying a friend's 02 Z28 and I'm now back to the stock stall on it. (Had to sell the 3400 from the other car). Yes, the stock stall sucks again. I want a 3200 now for the new one.
12-17-2005, 11:18 PM
#20
Yea, I remember with a stock stall and 2.73's when I'd stand on it around 45 MPH it was DEAD. After a 3800 converter when you stand on it it is ALWAYS in the power band. Next to a stroker motor - the converter is the best mod I've done.
