4L60E Strength
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4L60E Strength
Will my stock 4L60E be able to hold up to the power I am producing with the mods listed in my sig? If so, is it for only a little while or how long will it hold up in the end?
#3
I ran a 125 shot for a year in a half in my car. No problems with the tranny putting down 413/428 on the juice.
Then I got my engine worked to 401/385 NA and the tranny hasn't been happy since.
Use a window switch so you don't spray through shifts and you'll increase your chances of your tranny surviving.
Just from my one experience (yours may vary).
Matt
Then I got my engine worked to 401/385 NA and the tranny hasn't been happy since.
Use a window switch so you don't spray through shifts and you'll increase your chances of your tranny surviving.
Just from my one experience (yours may vary).
Matt
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Originally Posted by tkz28
no reason why it shouldnt hold up, its your rear end you should worry about
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Mine lasted 120,000 miles, at 80,000 miles I did mti s2 heads, x1 cam, 125hp shot, all the bolt ons, ls6 intake, making 445+ on motor...started slipping at about 110,000 miles, but never really failed...just slipped, then I had to replace it.
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Originally Posted by corvet786c
I would say yes it can handle it.But you would have to change your automatic trans fluid every 10,000 miles.Be careful on the juice though.Hit it in 3rd.
I agree with every one else, a window switch so that u dont spray during the shifts and keep the tranny cool, and u should be ok.
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I have a 4L60E with X1cam 4.10gears 3400TCI wet kit 175shot 11.5 1/4MILE MY 4L60E GONE BAD 3 times when I hit 12.5 in the 1/4 in one year, now lookig for 350trans.
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4L60 stuff
If you're THAT concerned about the 4L60E holding the power, you can put in sturdier clutch packs and bands, or go with a 4L80E upgrade. I've personally never seen one catastrophically fail no matter the power, (It IS just a 700R4 with electronic shift, after all) but if it's making you nervous, just go ahead and get the heavier duty trans. I can get one apart and back together in about three hours (I was trained by a Hydromatic demi-god) so if you know your slushboxes it shouldn't be too bad of a job. However, the planetaries are rock solid, and the biggest thing I would worry about would be smoking the clutches or bands. Replace 'em with sterner stuff and have the accumulator springs removed/replaced with stiffer units so they don't have as much of a chance to slip and all should be fine. It'll kick like a mule when you shift, but such is the price of performance.
'Course, this is all just from my point of view. It can get pricey because automatic trans labor isn't cheap, but like I said, there's always the option of a 4L80E.
And Jeremiah, off the top of my head when you lose 3 and 4, but the planetary's alright, it's either a bad solenoid, the band, or the 3-4 clutch. If it IS the planet set fragging, it WOULD be time to upgrade to a stronger unit. If it's just the clutches and you're sure you're getting correct pressure, beefier friction discs would be your best bet. I can't see 4th being lost in hard driving however, as it's just engaged by the overdrive band clamping the drum.
In 3rd, the Forward Clutch, Forward Sprag, & 3-4 Clutch are engaged.
In O/D (4th) the Forward Clutch, 2-4 Band, and 3-4 Clutch are engaged.
If one component's knocking out both gears but you still have gears 1 and 2, I'm going to bet it's your 3-4 Clutch getting smoked, if it's not a hydraulic problem. If you keep replacing clutches and they smoke anyway, you may have inadequate pressure in the hydraulic system to keep them pressed against the steel plates, and they're just spinning against them and frying. Get the valve body or pump looked at.
Just my $0.02. Hope I was helpful.
'Course, this is all just from my point of view. It can get pricey because automatic trans labor isn't cheap, but like I said, there's always the option of a 4L80E.
And Jeremiah, off the top of my head when you lose 3 and 4, but the planetary's alright, it's either a bad solenoid, the band, or the 3-4 clutch. If it IS the planet set fragging, it WOULD be time to upgrade to a stronger unit. If it's just the clutches and you're sure you're getting correct pressure, beefier friction discs would be your best bet. I can't see 4th being lost in hard driving however, as it's just engaged by the overdrive band clamping the drum.
In 3rd, the Forward Clutch, Forward Sprag, & 3-4 Clutch are engaged.
In O/D (4th) the Forward Clutch, 2-4 Band, and 3-4 Clutch are engaged.
If one component's knocking out both gears but you still have gears 1 and 2, I'm going to bet it's your 3-4 Clutch getting smoked, if it's not a hydraulic problem. If you keep replacing clutches and they smoke anyway, you may have inadequate pressure in the hydraulic system to keep them pressed against the steel plates, and they're just spinning against them and frying. Get the valve body or pump looked at.
Just my $0.02. Hope I was helpful.
Last edited by LoveHisBird; 01-18-2006 at 11:03 PM.
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Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Mine stocker is still doing fine with a 225 shot. I don't spray through the shifts though. The car has been sprayed for more than 4 years now.
Mine has held up for 10,000 miles so far.. No track passes though. I think the bottom line is that if you change the fluid, have a good cooler and aren't going WOT at every light it should hold up well.
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Mine just turned over 53,000 miles when mine lost 3rd and 4th! I still have 1st and 2nd and should have the car back from the shop tomorow. It sucks but a beefier race oriented clutch and component kit is being installed. All I had was a cut-out and a lid!
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Originally Posted by LS1BlackBird99
Well all I have right now is a WOT switch but I haven't even sprayed it yet. How hard would it be to switch over to a window switch?