Have some converter questions...
1. I'm going by the +1 rule, by that I mean I've heard it said to get the next stall up from what you think you can handle, and I think a Vig2800 would be perfect, so the next up would be a ST3500. I'm sure the stall won't bother me, but I have other concerns.
2. Reliability. I'll be running a B&M tranny cooler, but that will be it. Can I expect my tranny to crap out on me in a year? In two years? This is my daily driver, I'm a college student, and I need this car to last me and be reliable. The car gets taken to the track twice a year, and in one year, I probably put in around 10 passes. Otherwise, my daily driving is fairly tame, but I do give her hell about once a day, maybe a bit more if I'm feeling like it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Regardless, I don't have the money to dish out for a new tranny should this one go out, so I don't want to sacrifice reliability for a little performance. BTW: Car has 63,000 miles on it, half of which I was behind the wheel (read: semi-abusive driving <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ).
3. Should I pick up a TransGo shift kit? I know Yank recommends not running one, but the TransGo doesn't raise line pressure as far as I know. I'd actually think it could be benefitial to the longevity of my tranny, but I'd like to get some back up on this. Also, if I do run one, what washer setting should I use?
4. Performance from a roll. I know converters are all about your 60', but I also know they give you shift extension. Will this stop my car from fallin on it's face on the 1-2 shift? Also, will it have any effect over a stock converter at WOT on the 2-3 shift (will I still get shift extension even though I'm going around 95mph)?
5. Should I also invest in some custom tuning to get torque management deleted? I'd think torque management would help to prolong my tranny, but then again I don't know alot <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
So, if anyone can address some of my concerns and questions, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks for any help guys.
<small>[ April 22, 2002, 10:45 AM: Message edited by: josh99ta ]</small>
2) A converter does increase wear as the tranny sees more torque. Lots of guys need rebuilds by 60,000 miles, so you may already be on borrowed time and converter will not hasten the need that much.
3) some people believe that a quicker shift will reduce clutch wear. I don't think it is proven although the idea makes some sense. Overall, most people get them if the shift feels too slow or sloppy; otherwise they leave it alone.
4) Yes, the shift extension will help from a roll by providing torque multiplication on the upshifts. ST 3500 will hold around 4500 rpms on the upshift. With 3.23s the gains will be over by 100 mph in 3rd.
5) Torque management is designed to reduce the torque during the shifts. Deleting it will increase the wear on the clutches. I have eliminated it only for WOT shifts.
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ragtop 99:
<strong>2) A converter does increase wear as the tranny sees more torque. Lots of guys need rebuilds by 60,000 miles, so you may already be on borrowed time and converter will not hasten the need that much.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">So basically if I get the converter, I better have an emergency stash in order to rebuild the tranny or get a new one right? Is Speed Automotive the place that sells wrecked F-Body parts? I might go ahead and see how much a fairly new tranny will set me back before I go ahead and put a converter in. This could definantly put a damper on the wheels I want this summer <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> Oh well, we will see.
Wearing out clutches is not the same as trashing the tranny, so even if you ended up needing tranny work, the better solution would probably be selective repair of your tranny rather than buying an unknown junker.
BTW, There's nothing to say that your tranny won't go for 100,000 miles. Just the combination of a lead foot and extra power frequently shortens the life of a tranny. A good cooler, like a 19,000 GVW B&M Supercooler, is a good start to protecting it.
normally the 19000 is fine except for autocross. The primary downside to 24,000 is that in the winter it can take a while for the tranny to warm up to operating temp. Lock-up won't kick-in until the tranny reaches a moderate temp. Depends on how cold it gets in the winter.
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The gears will definitely make the converter feel tighter. ST3500/3.42s will make a very nice all-around combo.
You may be able to hook on nittos (I did at tracks with good prep) and not need the ET Streets. Just don't go busting the rear now. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Before ST3500... 13.6 @ 103 w/2.10 60'
After ST3500... 12.8 @ 106.7 w/1.75 60'
<strong>another year? By the time I'll have my turbo kit! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Before ST3500... 13.6 @ 103 w/2.10 60'
After ST3500... 12.8 @ 106.7 w/1.75 60'</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">DAMN YOU!!! That right there has me swaying toward a converter now <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I mean it would be cheaper than wheels and tires, but I'd need some new tires for my current wheels, but Kumhos are cheap. Hmmmmm, I might still try to squeeze both, after all, I do have a birthday at the end of May <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
18" wheels might help you in autocross, but a set of nitto drag radials on your stock rims will give more grip than 18" Kumhos. Use the nittos in spring through fall and put some all seasons on for the winter.
Actually, after watching those F-Body Hideout videos, it's got me wanting performance. But, I think I'd get more smiles/dollar from the wheels. I mean I can enjoy the converter when I hammer on it, but I can't do that everywhere otherwise I'll be buying tires and getting pulled over all the time <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I could just look out the door and see my car lowered on polished 18" Vette wheels and say to myself, "Damn, I've finally got a car that looks completely badass." It really is going to come down to money, because the wheels and tires might be a tight squeeze, so I may have to just get a converter. Not sure though, we'll see I guess. I'm going to go ahead and lower the car and do some suspension stuff (APHR, LCAs and reloc. brackets, STB, Eibach Pro Kit, Bilstein HD shocks) and then we'll see where it goes from there.
<strong>I'm sure the 24k is a bit bigger than the 19k.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Actually, the 24k is smaller than the 19k in terms of L x W but it's 1.5 inches thick as opposed to .75 for the 19k.
It's also only about $5 more. <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

