SS4000 here as well

 

I have a SS3800 and wished I would have got the SS4000.

 

I've never undertsood it either. Especialy debates over like 200rpms, it's 200 rpms you big girl, get the big one.

 

If you are talking about flash stall speed, sure you may look at it that way. But a 200rpm flash stall increase will give a ~400rpm shift extension increase...its not a linear relationship, and neither are the driving characteristics.

 

I have to disagree...we just put a PT4000 in a "bone stock" I mean stock..no lid cat or anything and the car chokes with that large of a stall. Launched hard hits 2nd and just falls on it's face. Maybe a different story with intake/exhaust but am not greatly impressed with it at this point.

 

Abone stock car will fall on its face no matter what.

 

hun? Sorry newbie here, don't want to read into that comment to much but did you mean a stock ls1 falls on its face and is to slow to put on even a small convertor? should i do some more power mods first? i have a lid and nittos and im trying to do my own research but I'm still not certain on what I want. this car is VERY much my daily driver and I don't really want to get a stall that will bother me or anyone else when daily driving.... but I'd like to drop .5 sec too. so I'm very uncertin as to what to get.... also, I've never ridden in a stalled car before, what kinda changes will result in daily driving? will i need to get a chip (diablo or whatever) to tune out tq mangment? thanks, steve.

 

Newsflash buddy, high 12's-low 13's is not fast. Therefore, IMO and many others on this forum, a stock LS1 is infact slow.

Get a SS4000, get rid of the tq mgt and play w/ the shift points.

 

lol never said it was fast, its my a-2-b just trying to have some fun man.... thanks for your input though.

 

Depends on where you are comming from, low 13's will kick the **** out of 98% of the cars on the road. It does help that most of them are camry's or SUV's though, lol

 

I think I wrote my first post up there wrong, what i ment was is the guy saying that if you put a convertor on a stock ls1 it will bog down? Do i need to do some power mods first? Guess I should have been more carefull on how I worded that.... Sorry guys. lol

 

I doubt the car is actualy bogging down, higher stalls just feel different, and all automatics have dead zones where they arnt quite in the right gear and just dont pull as hard.

 

I got a PT4000 so I'm not afraid to go big!

 

You want sad? How about spending 70k on a 427 Z06 vette w/ 500hp and then you read road & track mag and see that it does 12.0 in the quarter. THATS sad.

I waited 4 years to get a converter and reserched converters to death. I just got the converter yesterday. Its sitting in the back room. At this point, i dont give a **** what it feels like or how drivability changes- Its going in the car period. Oh, its an SS3600.

With this converter and traction, im looking at a 12.0-12.2

 

I ran a PT4400, then a PT4000 and people who rode with me in both couldn't believe how streetable the car really was. Honestly, the difference between the two as far as daily driving goes wasn't much at all. I do miss the 4400 actually.

 

my fuddle flashed at 4500 on the nitrous. it drove around like a baby converter. my th400 converter will flash at 4800 on the nitrous.

no fear.

 

Actually your the sole reason why I got a 3500 Stall on my Blue Auto. I remember talking to you at Don Lee's Auto and watching the vid of you launching at Irwindale, I was amazed. Stock suspension too. So I did a little experiement and with a stock motor, suspension, etc. Pulled a 7.2/1.4X 60 Ft 1/8th mile run. Low 11's in 1/4 mile times.

Daily driving isnt an issue, but I dont recommend a high stall without gears. 2.73's and 3.23's dont quite seem as powerful with a good stall, but trap speeds would probably be higher. Anyways now I'm going with a 4,000+ Stall and a TH400 with a built LS1 Motor. Going all out.

Good Thread.

 

are you saying that i should go with something less than a 3500 stall if i do not want to put 3.73's in? I have a 2001 ss also.... and I am planning on doing n20 sometime this year. So I have read not to go over 3600. but should i stay near 3k or something less than 3500 if I don't want to put a higher gear? I'm basicly looking to shave .5 off my et and use n2o sometime this year... thanks for the advice....steve.

 

Honestly, the real issue is traction. I've raced a trillion people (probably not to far off number wise) on the streets, and track. Its great to have power, but if you cant put it to the ground, then your just wasting your time. You need to make sure you have good tires, so lets say you get a 4000 Converter, and you like to hot rod, well what tires are you going to get, to make sure when you flash it, your rear end doesnt swipe out and take out another car in the process. You will have to run ET Streets, and even then it can get crazy if you jam on the gas. If your going to the track alot, you wanna have a spare set of slicks to swap out, otherwise again you fall into the category of pointlessness.

As Nick didnt point out, he ran straight slicks at the track on his passes. If he was to run street tires and mash on the gas, I'm sure his car would get sideways. Mine does easily, and thats with running ET Streets on the street. Even with a set of good Nittos, its gonna be hard to keep it under control, unless your going straight off the line.

So in essence, a high stall probably isnt good for EVERYONE. And as fun as a 4000 converter might sound, its not practical for the Daily driver. Hence 3500 Stall for me. And also thats probably why there are alot of 3000-3600 Stalled LS1s out there.

 

I went through a few converters
Yank 3000
TCI SSF 3500
Yank SS 4000
Fuddle 3400

I still have the Fuddle in the car now and our track closed for good, so I didn't get enough runs on it.

Going back for n/a and n20 I'd go with a TCI SSF 3500, very good for DD and the track.

Times are in sig