Thank you!

 

Not a problem, good luck with your car

 

What's sad is people fail to realize there is a lot more to a Corvette than just acceleration...
I have a 3.23 car and will go N20 at some point also. I chose the SS3600. I didn't want to go too big because of the application, which is a street car + N20 use. I think it is perfect, but in the future when I have a 12-bolt in here I will probably change the gear ratio to something around 3.42-3.55 or so.

 

Maybe a stock ls1 is slow to YOU but to the average joe a stock ls1 will put the fear of god into him. Case in point i took my boss for a ride in my car that only has a few mods and he looked ilke he was gonna turn green when i floored it. His cars have been a bmw z3 a nissan sentra and a jeep. Most people have never driven anything like an ls1.

 

You will be just fine. My car was stock, except for a lid and I ran 13.5s @ 103, 2.0 60' on street tires. I added a Yank 4000 converter and ET Streets and dropped to 12.5 @ 106, 1.6 60'. I daily drive my car.

 

To each there own, I daily drove my Yank SS 4000 everyday for 6 months, it sucked leaving my house 0430 reversing out of my drive way on incline and waking my son up every morning (with my Fuddle, not a problem).

The Yank SS 4000 SUCKS for gas mileage (gained 30 miles more a tank with my Fuddle), climbing hills, everyday stop and go traffic, and with nitrous shots over a 100 hp.

The Yank SS 4000 is a great n/a converter for the track (sucks for freeway races), the guys at Yank are great guys

The guys at Fuddle are great too

I have not dealt with TCI direct, but for a over all good track and daily driving converter, I'd go with a TCI SSF 3500

Don't even get me started on big cams

 

What I was saying is that you don't have to mod the car for the converter to be effective. At stock power you will be just fine. I went straight to a 4000 converter to avoid the " I wish I would have gone bigger" syndrome that a lot of people have.

 

Actually I ran the ET street on a stock wheels. Just though I'd point that out

And for everyone else........think about where your stock internals LS1 makes peak tq at. If you want the most out of your run, go w/ AT LEAST a 3800, if not the 4000 stall. You wont regret it. Sure it'll kinda keel over after 60ft but it gets you outta the hole quick.

Go big, or go home

 

I don't agree with that. After the shift extension, your car stays in its powerband instead of dropping far below it. Maybe it feels like that to you, but you really do accelerate faster even after the 60ft.

 

 

Nick...im loving that SS4000 in the GTO!!
didnt lose any driveabilty!!!! shifts better than stock!!

 

Look at my numbers.....I had a 1.58 60ft and only went 7.62 @ 88.80mph in the 1/8. Hmmmmm, seems like she keeled over some. Stock hp/tq dont sustain the car the entire way down the track. You just feel the blast off from the instant pk tq, then its over after 60ft.

 

not true i had a 7.45 in the 1/8 with around 91.5mph, and a 1.57 60ft, seems like my car is still pulling after the 60ft, best mph before converter was around 88 like you so she is definitely pulling harder, should gain mph from a converter not lose mph

 

Look at the DA you raced in. Dur! Here in CA, we can only dream of that. Thats why you ran that number. I didnt even get to the DA part at the end of your sig and I already knew negative DA was the factor that put you at a 7.45. I think the best I've seen is 1700DA.

 

I went from a 2600 to a 3400 and back. I could not stand the mushy feel of the 3400. The motor would rev and the car would barely be moving. I never gave it a try at the track. It wouldn't have mattered anyway because i do not have the tires or suspension to make it hook. I'm staying with the 2600.

 

Well you went with the Pro Yank which is not a street converter. If you had chosen a Super Stock converter it would have been a lot more "friendly" on the street with its STR designed to move the car better in the lower RPM range.

 

too bad for you and your da, i am also only a 3600 stall still have manifolds and cats and 3.23 gears, but i was not debating the fact that i had a good run in a great da, i was debating the fact that you said the car falls on its face, it maybe feel like it falls on its face due to the harder hit off the line...but is is definitely not going to be slower than the stock converter, it it were it would show up in the mph....

bottom line it feels like it falls on its face but it is still going faster though the second shift over a stock verter

 

i have a yank 3200 stall i got for CHEAP! but converters are fun for racing but are not as fun for just going from point a to point b...you have to rev the motor higher to get going and to accelerate and with my exhaust my car is loud as hell! but you need one if you are going to run a auto and you want to be fast.

 

Good for you skippy, I had all stock stuff too. You still dont understand what I mean by falling on its face. Look at the 60ft time, then the ET/mph.

 

Contrary to what some people think, there is such a thing as too much stall. There are three key factors regarding torque converters.

1). Stall speed

2). STR

3). Shift Extension

All three need to work together with your vehicles setup to gain the optimal performance. If you put a 4400 stall with a 2.7 STR and a 5000 rpm shift extension on a bone stock LS1 then guess what happens? It spins sideways on the launch for one. Then when it does get going it'll feel like it "fell on its face". But the stall is big (go big or go home I think someone said) so why would it perform bad?

1). The stall size is too big. 4000+ stalls do not play well with 2.73/3.23 gears. The bigger stalls tend to perform better with the bigger gears. 3.73 would be a good choice for anything 4000+ IMO.

2). The STR is rediculously big for street tires. The launch will be impossible causing no better 60' then a stock converter could do (in many cases even worse).

3). The shift extension is too big. If you look at a dyno of a stock LS1 they make peak torque at 3500-4500 rpm's but start to slightly fall off after that. So by shift extending to 5000 rpm's you are bypassing usable powerband.

So if a stock LS1 was a daily driver, had 2.73 gears and the owner has no plans for any mods beyond say lid, catback and the converter itself then what is a good TC choice? IMO that very basic application calls for a 3000 stall with a 2.0 STR and a 4000 rpm shift extension. This converter (again for this application) will make a half second difference in the 1/4 mile, feel far more street friendly, not completly roast street tires and not put you beyond a stock motors powerband.

Big cams want bigger stalls, Big N20 shots want smaller stalls and of course sticky tires love bigger STR's.

Streetable is widely considered a matter of opinion. But for stock motors and gears it's popular opinion that:

3000 is super tight
3500-3800 is loose but very easy to get used to
4000 is very loose but can be tolerated by many
4200+ is wicked loose and generally not done on stock internals/gears

So basically you should consider everything when picking a stall. Your gears, current mods, furture mods (realistic ones anyway and especially N20), vehicle usage (daily driver, track only, street & strip), tires you want or are willing to run on and of course your personal limit on how loose you are willing to put up with.

Then and only then can you pick the torque converter that's right for you.