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any way to manually shift the 4L60?

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Old May 8, 2006 | 11:04 AM
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Default any way to manually shift the 4L60?

Ok im about tired of this computer controlled trans. i can make a pass and it shifts perfect...then on the next pass it lays on the rev limiter before shifting. same thing on the street. sometimes it shifts perfect...sometimes it doesnt. this is on a pretty much stock ls1 with all the bolt ons. trans is 100% stock with a converter and a deep pan. trans operates perfect..just isnt consistent at WOT.

my question is...is there any way to manually tell the trans to shift? like the lock up...you can hook up a switch to lock the converter...is there any way hook something up to manually tell the trans to shift?

thanks
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Old May 8, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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sounds like the tranny is going
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Old May 8, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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Not sure if this would help at all, just thought it was interesting.

http://www.twistmachine.com/products/
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Old May 8, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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I would think it's time for a rebuild. If it's stock and taking alot of abuse, chances are it's going out. No need for a manuel shifting 60E imo
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Old May 8, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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Yea i have the exact same prob. And my past experiences with 4L60E's, its tellin me its bout to go out.
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Old May 8, 2006 | 03:38 PM
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Yes, if the revs are going that much past the shift point, then I would guess that its slipping quite a bit. The 4L60E isn't bad, but even in stock form, an LS1 can break it.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 02:10 AM
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thanks for the advice guys. the trans isnt slipping or going out. it shifts perfect, just at the wrong time. if the trans was going out...then im sure it would have gone out by now since its been doing this for the past 2 years. i change the fluid and filter on it about 3 times a season and the fluid always looks really good. only thing in the pan is dust from the lock up clutches.

heres some other symptoms. if i hold it in first...like to roll around a turn until i get around it and straight...then i hammer it...as soon as i floor it i put it back in D...obviously it doesnt shift when i move the selector to D...but it never shifts. it will lay on the limiter for about 3 seconds before it shifts. i have this problem at the track sometimes (but i run the car in "D"). then on the next pass its better...it seems the more passes i make the better it gets. by my 5th pass it will be shifting perfect. now something else i tried was after the burnout i shut the car off for about 10 seconds then start it back up. it shifts perfect. but who wants to do that everytime they make a pass? i dont.

back to my main question. is there any way to electronically manually tell the thing to shift. at least if i tried that it would tell me if its a computer problem or a trans problem. ive tried lowering the shift points and it makes it better. but then when its actually shifting properly...then it shifts too early. just looking for some consistent shifting. thanks!!!
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Old May 13, 2006 | 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 96SweetTA
Not sure if this would help at all, just thought it was interesting.

http://www.twistmachine.com/products/
thank you. thats exactly what i was looking for. just looking for a cheaper way to do it...like hooking up a wire to the shift solenoid or something
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Old May 13, 2006 | 03:47 AM
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Sounds like the clutches are slipping. Tranny needs to be rebuilt.

If you think it's only the shift points, change them. They only a require a mouse click with the right software.

But.. I bet if you move them up, you'll be moving them more as the clutches get worst and worst.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:53 AM
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I had my shift points lowered to 4000 RPM in an effort to keep my car off the rev limiter (set at 6500) and it helped for a little while. I finally had the transmission rebuilt and had the full manual valve body shift kit installed thereby doing away with all computer control. Now the transmission shifts when I want it too and not when it wants to. This isn't exactly an inexpensive mod but it will do what you want. This kit also has the capability of letting the transmission shift by itself but I think I'm just going to leave it in full manual mode until this transmission destroys itself as well. I figure that'll be about a month after I get the 408 installed. Can you tell I'm not the 4l60e's greatest fan???
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Old May 15, 2006 | 01:02 AM
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guys...i appreciate all the advice. im pretty smart mechanically to know whether the trans is slipping or not. when the trans finally shifts...it shifts PERFECT...as it does on every shift. so what you guys are trying to tell me is that the computer has told it to shift....then its slipping so bad that in some cases its slipping for 3 seconds while laying on the limiter before it shifts...but then when it finally shifts it shifts firm and normal?

i appreciate all the advice about what may be wrong with my trans. it very well may be shot. and if it is then i will install the 3k mile trans that i have sitting under my bench. like i said before...i have played with the shift points. where ever i make it shift its just not consistent from one pass to the next. i have TONS of passes on this trans since its been doing this. i drive the car 60+ miles to the track...make at least 5 passes each time and drive it home. the ONLY issue the trans is giving me is the shift points. id think if it was "going"....that it would have "gone" since its been doing this for 2 years since the day i bought the car with a FRESH trans...and i take it to the track at least 4 times a month for 6 months out of the year.

back to my original question. has anyone found a way to hot wire something to MAKE it shift?

thanks
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Old May 15, 2006 | 01:30 AM
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My car does the same thing. It bounces off the rev limiter sometimes in the 2nd to 3rd shift at WOT. Doesn`t do it in any other gear, nor does it do it at part throttle. My car has 24,000 miles on it and has been babied to this point. I just point LT headers, catback, lid, ported TB and ORY on it and it started doing this. I bought EFI live and have been playing with it and went back to the stock files, but left the torque reduction disabled. The other day I punched it at 70 mph and it dropped to second and pulled hard to 80, then it bogged till 90 and woke back up. From 80 to 90, I could feel and hear the motor reduce timing caused by the computer. I still haven`t been able to figure out how to tune it out.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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when the computer shifts it buy mph not rpm so if you have a programmer you can mess with WOT shift mph to find it exactly!
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Old May 16, 2006 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by camscam02
when the computer shifts it buy mph not rpm so if you have a programmer you can mess with WOT shift mph to find it exactly!
I would think RPM would be better than MPH?
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Old May 16, 2006 | 05:58 PM
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your WOT shift points are by mph not rpm I had to figure that out to keep going down on the mph until it shifts where u want it to.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by slow3hoe2
Ok im about tired of this computer controlled trans. i can make a pass and it shifts perfect...then on the next pass it lays on the rev limiter before shifting. same thing on the street. sometimes it shifts perfect...sometimes it doesnt. this is on a pretty much stock ls1 with all the bolt ons. trans is 100% stock with a converter and a deep pan. trans operates perfect..just isnt consistent at WOT.

my question is...is there any way to manually tell the trans to shift? like the lock up...you can hook up a switch to lock the converter...is there any way hook something up to manually tell the trans to shift?

thanks
Ken, give Chuck/Vince a call at FLT. I am pretty sure they know how to do it.
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Old May 17, 2006 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by juicedls1
your WOT shift points are by mph not rpm I had to figure that out to keep going down on the mph until it shifts where u want it to.
That was exactly what i was sayn! stupid gm! you just have to mess with the computer then it will be perfect!
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Old May 18, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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well what are the mph shift points set at? and about were do you guys have yours at?
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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if you hit the rev limiter just raise the rev limiter up to about 6350 or so! it solved my problem when i got my converter put in!
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