MAXIMVS

my FLP Level IV 4L60e is STRONG LIKE A ROCK! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

chuck all the way! <img border="0" alt="[Firebird]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" />

<small>[ May 01, 2002, 09:54 AM: Message edited by: MAXIMVS ]</small>

MacGyver

iTrader: (5)

No doubt FLP makes a good tranny. I'm not knocking them at all. But how much did you pay for it? I paid less than 3k for EVERYTHING I needed for the TH400 including converter, shifter, tranny cooler, flexplate, driveshaft, lines and fittings....EVERYTHING. I'm not exactly sure how much a FLP tranny is but I know it's more than 2k and that's without a converter. And I'd much rather have a non-computer controlled tranny than I tell when to shift. Just my opinion though.

MAXIMVS

i got mine with converter for around 2K

however it was my original tranny(had to be rebuilt cause i broke it) and converter <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> i think that's a good price for the durability! <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

<small>[ May 01, 2002, 10:28 AM: Message edited by: MAXIMVS ]</small>

MacGyver

iTrader: (5)

Tim,

Not sure on the length man it will be diff cause I have a 9". There is a sheet you can print from dennys website www.dennysdriveshaft.com that helps you measure it. If you do get it locally made make sure they balance it to like 7k RPM so you wont have any vibration issues....that's one reason i recommend dennys they balance it to whatever RPM you specifiy to them. For the cooler lines. I swapped from a T-56 so I had no cooler lines to begin with. I bought some -6AN hose and fittings from jegs along with a TCI cooler. Total for the lines and fittings and cooler was about 250 bucks.

L8r
Will

BIGBOS

Are you running all motor tim.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

The Derek H

Tim's fixing to spray a 150 shot on the car from what he told me Saturday at Thunder. I think thats why he wants to upgrade. His trannies haven't been holding on motor without the nitrous and he wants it to hold with it.

BADZ

iTrader: (5)

Tim, I went with the TH350 simply because you can have it built just as strong or stronger than the th400, plus the 350 takes up less hp than the 400 also. Keep in mind that my tranny was right at 2000.00 but it should hold up to 600-800 rwhp and Transking built this one bullet proof with all the bells and whistles!!!

I would say th350 all the way!!!!

Jeff

WS6 Chewbaca

A TH400 with the Gearvendors OD unit is drivetrain nirvana.

WS6 Chewbaca

I did not like my heavy TH400 at first... Now that a forged motor, 250 shot and H/C are in the works I feel terrific about it! <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

The only problem with the TH350 is that they don't like to be street driven much in full auto mode. I do drive mine on the street on occasion, but mostly I drive it street racing. If it was just me driving it, I wouldn't mine the manual valvebody too much, but my wife drives it to sometimes and she would have a **** fit trying to shift it all the time. LOL

Derek, SOB, there is NO WAY I'd do a lock up tranny for that kind of $$$.

You guys runnin the TH400, what are you doing for the lock up feature for the convertor. I was told that most of the good convertors have about a 93% effecincy rating at WOT.

Tim

WS6 Chewbaca

Thats like the fith time I have heard people say not to use a TH350 in a daily driver. Can we get some specific reasons why one should not do this? When I talked to Hughes and ATI they both told me not to do a TH350, They said its not meant for daily use. They both also said that 600 HP with equal TQ is about the limit of a TH350 in general.

BADZ

iTrader: (5)

Good luck on your set up!!!!

It sounds like fun which ever you decide!!!

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MacGyver:
<strong>Tim,

I'd definately go with a dennys driveshaft with a 1350 u-joint. Of course it really depends on what joint is on your rear end currently and if you're willing to change it to a 1350 if it's only a 1310.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Do you have the measurements needed? I have a Moser 12-bolt. Not sure which yoke though. I need to ask the person I bought it from. I have a driveline specialist shop here in town that builds them. I do hear that Denny's are the **** though.
Also, what did you do for tranny cooler lines? Just swap the fittings out of the 4l60e?

BIGBOS, 4500 is a bit high for my setup. I may go somewhere around 4000. Plus with the extra hp that the TH400 eats up, I am going to go to the smallest convertor feasible.

Tim

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

OK, I ordered the ATI TH400 and a convertor as well today. They are going to build my convertor using the LS1 flexplate mounting so it will be a direct bolt up. Forward manual valve body and no trans brake.
I was also told as well NOT to do a TH350. Won't hold they said.
Getting an 8" convertor that will stall about 4200 N/A.

Now, where can I get the following: Crossmember, tranny mount, dipstick, speedo calibrator?
Does anyone know the big difference in the 4l60e crossmember and the TH400 crossmember? Can the 4l60e crossmember be adapted to work?

Tim

MacGyver

iTrader: (5)

Well I replied in your other thread too but I'll add a few things here too. Tranny mount I'm using is one from energy suspendion. It's the standard TH400 mount they sell. The dipstick I'm using is a Lokar I bought from jegs. The thing that sucks about it is it mounts WAYYY back under the cowl on the firewall and is a PITA to get to to check the fluid especially with a hot engine. Madman is selling lengthened versions of the lokar for a good price and I would definately get that If I had the chance. As for a speedo I never did anything with mine I just left it off. I judge my speed by my RPM...a + to this method is that when the speedo is unhooked the odometer stops working too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I would get BMR's crossmember they sell it's a great piece and alot cheaper than the yank alternative.