</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by A hick from Beaver County:
<strong>I don't post here much or read the board much, but I gonna take a guess and say the fastest members here are the fastest because they've dumped >$15,000-$20,000 in to thier engines from MTI or Agostino 396ci to 4-- what ever ci and happen to choose Yank.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Psstt.. look at my sig. It's a stock motor! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

I will always say the Vig is the best street/strip converter out there. Fewer problems you hear about, and they seem to be way tighter. Guys who have restalled from 3200 to 3600 say the looseness (not very) is about the same. Amazing for a stall that big. If I could afford for my car to be down for a week I'd get my 3200 restalled to the #7. But, since my best option is to buy a brand new converter, I think I'll have to go with the PT4400/3.73 combo for highway purposes <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Vig3200 in my '01 SS.

Love it!!!

Like a couple others have mentioned, I'm kinda kicking around the idea of doing the free restall up to 3600...

 

ST3500 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

 

I've swapped from the VIG 3600 to a yank TP4400. This was with a stock motor and bolt ons. I picked up 1/2 a tenth in the sixty foot, 1.5 tenths in the quater mile, and about a mph.

I also just ran a 1.463 60' on the yank tp4400 with 4.10's and a new Futral 226 cam (stock heads and ci).

If you guys think you are faster with ANY of the vigilante convertors then go for it! Have fun locking them up manually, and have fun looking at my back bumper too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike Hoffpauir:
<strong>I've swapped from the VIG 3600 to a yank TP4400. This was with a stock motor and bolt ons. I picked up 1/2 a tenth in the sixty foot, 1.5 tenths in the quater mile, and about a mph.

I also just ran a 1.463 60' on the yank tp4400 with 4.10's and a new Futral 226 cam (stock heads and ci).

If you guys think you are faster with ANY of the vigilante convertors then go for it! Have fun locking them up manually, and have fun looking at my back bumper too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Exactly! What I don't understand is this constant debate, why the "Vig guys" always so vigorously defend their convertors. When I was shopping for a convertor, I researched, searched old posts, LOOKED AT THE FASTEST 1/4 MILE LISTS, and decided. I know the price, the free restall, blah blah blah. Point is, I paid $950 for my TP4400. You paid $700 for your Vig2800 or 3200. Assuming that install/removal costs $200, you decide a year later to pull it out, send it off (~$30 shipping), have it restalled to 3600, then reinstall it into your car, your $700 "cheaper" convertor has just become the same $950 that my TP4400 was. Except mine will still be more efficient, will generally produce better 60 ft and 1/4 mile times, etc. See the lists, it is proven. You "Vig" guys keep saying "We want to install Vig XXX in Colonels car", or "What would your car run with the Vig XXX". Point is, look at the lists, there are cars with the same mods with the only difference being convertor choice, and the lists are (generally) pretty much run by the Yanks. (Stanks? Whats your best 60?) JMO.

Yank-----------------------------------> <img border="0" alt="[Camaro]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" />

Vig---> <img border="0" alt="[Firebird]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" />

Just a fact, enjoy your "tighter", "cheaper" convertor.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SPANKY LS1:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike Hoffpauir:
<strong>I've swapped from the VIG 3600 to a yank TP4400. This was with a stock motor and bolt ons. I picked up 1/2 a tenth in the sixty foot, 1.5 tenths in the quater mile, and about a mph.

I also just ran a 1.463 60' on the yank tp4400 with 4.10's and a new Futral 226 cam (stock heads and ci).

If you guys think you are faster with ANY of the vigilante convertors then go for it! Have fun locking them up manually, and have fun looking at my back bumper too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Exactly! What I don't understand is this constant debate, why the "Vig guys" always so vigorously defend their convertors. When I was shopping for a convertor, I researched, searched old posts, LOOKED AT THE FASTEST 1/4 MILE LISTS, and decided. I know the price, the free restall, blah blah blah. Point is, I paid $950 for my TP4400. You paid $700 for your Vig2800 or 3200. Assuming that install/removal costs $200, you decide a year later to pull it out, send it off (~$30 shipping), have it restalled to 3600, then reinstall it into your car, your $700 "cheaper" convertor has just become the same $950 that my TP4400 was. Except mine will still be more efficient, will generally produce better 60 ft and 1/4 mile times, etc. See the lists, it is proven. You "Vig" guys keep saying "We want to install Vig XXX in Colonels car", or "What would your car run with the Vig XXX". Point is, look at the lists, there are cars with the same mods with the only difference being convertor choice, and the lists are (generally) pretty much run by the Yanks. (Stanks? Whats your best 60?) JMO.

Yank-----------------------------------> <img border="0" alt="[Camaro]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" />

Vig---> <img border="0" alt="[Firebird]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" />

Just a fact, enjoy your "tighter", "cheaper" convertor.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">i beg to differ <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

when you have a 3600 its only 700 bucks, heck mine was 640 new <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

my biggest reason for not swapping to a yank4400 is that im not paying 900 bucks for that converter then pay around 300 for swapping both in and outta car. So bacially im paying 600 dollars for 1.5tenths and 1mph over what i have now. Then whos to say my tranny wont crap on me after 4-5 passes <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

this is just in my case, and my case alone, its not worth it for me. Now everyone else is different so no flames here. If you got the money, sure get the yank.

 

i have a vig <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> .

the locals had vigs and thier cars seemed to et well with them. i had ordered a yank, but it took 2 months to get it when he said it would ship out in a couple days <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

to me it seems like the yanks are a hit or miss converter. some people get great results, some dont get as well as they hoped.

i thought the vig3200 was supposed to compete with the ST3500/3800. but i hear people constantly comparing the vig3200 to the yank 4400. i dont know what vig 3600 or the yank 4400 stalls to, but are they the same or are you comparing stock f-bodys to stock mustangs?

i got the vig3200 cause it is my daily driver and i didnt want a huge 4K+ stall. around town my vig stalls pretty low. it doesnt stall to 3800 unless i really flash it from a stop or roll. im guessing the yank isnt quiet the same which makes it feel looser.

it doesnt really matter cause i have a vig now and am happy with it. could i throw a yank in there and go faster? im sure i could find one of their many converters to go faster...but what if i dont? like i said, its a daily driver and dont want anything to extreme. my numbers improved significantly with the converter alone- 12.69 before and 11.9s after with the same setup. im not complaining.

 

The Yank was worth .05/1MPH+ over the Vig.
But as I stepped up the HP in the car the Yank just BLEW the VIG away.

It seems the more HP u put to a Yank the better the ET/MPH pulls away from the Vig.

Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
Seriously thr Vig is a great verter but it loses to much HP unlocked which is where u race at.

Now when u lock it up it does add about 1.5MPH to the car but u need to lock it up exactly at the right time (5900) or it will actually slow u down.PITA if u ask me.

I'm testing a UT4600 in my car next week
I will NOT lock it up just to see if I can run
120 MPH which is the BEST MPH the VIG did LOCKED UP w/ME driving.

If the car runs 120 or real close to 120 in worse weather then I KNOW FOR SURE the Yank is superior.I have a feeling I already know my answer but testing is fun. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Hope that helps guys.
I also like the way the Yank locks up in overdrive better too.

JS

<small>[ May 26, 2002, 03:48 PM: Message edited by: JS ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Dan99Hawk:
<strong>If you got an all out race car and don`t care about drivability then the 4k+ stall speed Yanks are for you...or if that kind of stall doesn`t bother you it`s the best converter out there.

I don`t care if the Yank would give me 3 sec over the Vig. (which it won`t) i care about everyday driving... no codes.. no balooned hubs... perfect balancing.. no glazed lock up clutches... no vibrations... Tight around town yet still looose enought to get good times.. that`s perfect for me I`ll never be the fastest with that converter...it`s not what I care about. If I was going for all out I~d most likely go with Yank.

Heads, cam, headers etc.... been there done that.. didn`t care for all the B.S. that went along with it.The break downs, the loss of drivability, the money pit... Took the car back to stock, sold it bought a Waverunner and started all over with something I could drive and enjoy everyday and still get good #`s with. 70mph on water is fun too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

The Yanks are definately F-body specific, many to choose from and more efficient.

Personally, I`ll give up efficiency and lose a tenth or two anyday in order to gain drivability and in some cases reliability.

It`s not which one is better.. IT`s which one is better for you

Just my .02</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">very good post!! oh and i can only hit 66 on the water in my GP1200(97) so mine sucks!!! i need to get the new 155hp one <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Just my .02[/qb][/QUOTE]very good post!! oh and i can only hit 66 on the water in my GP1200(97) so mine sucks!!! i need to get the new 155hp one <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> [/QB][/QUOTE]
i remember the first time i ran a gp1200 with my 96 sea doo gsx, i was like," dam, yesterday i thought this thing was fast", them gp1200's were bad *** when they came out. i got out of that seen, i got tired of those bay enimas at 50mph. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

 

98TAAUTO==See what you started. You got two divisions or two schools of thought on convertors. The Yank or Vig people. I am vig till I change one day. Anyway, lots of good information. Keeeeep up the goooooood discussions. BTW, where's that 1.55 on Nitto's?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by kent:
<strong>BTW, where's that 1.55 on Nitto's?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

us41 indiana

 

I was picking on 98TAauto and that was a funny reply. However, that is an excellent 60'time on Nitto's. If you don't mind, what settings do you have your Hal's on, tire pressure set at, and your launch technique. Last time at the track I finally started running consistent 60'times in the low 1.60 times, but it took me a little while to get there. My goal is to run 1.55 on a full weight car like yours. Also, your 60' time is sensational since you did it on Nitto's. Again, please give the details on how you did it. Thanks.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by DriveATransAm:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by kent:
<strong>BTW, where's that 1.55 on Nitto's?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

us41 indiana</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">LMAO, maybe they will make there way to Va soon!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Im looking into some front HALS so hopefully they may do the trick <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

driveata: like kent asked, whatcha have those fronts set on

but i like all the info in this post. Hopefully it will help many make the decision on what to get. If ya want the best possible that money could buy, get the yank 4400. Granted you may not like the street manners, but it would kick a@@ on the track. Now if you want a awesome converter with excellent street manners which may be .05-1.5 tenths slower then a yank, get the vig3600 instead of the 4400yank <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

whats streetable to you, depends on your own definition of "streetable" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

yank and vig are #1 to me <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

<small>[ May 27, 2002, 08:03 PM: Message edited by: 98TAauto ]</small>

 

Yeah, howdidyoudoit? My best on a Nitto w/vig3200 = 1.675 also at 41, I suck <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

 

you can check out the video here: http://www.us4n6.org/12-394.mpg

notice the commentary <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

psi was about 20 pounds cold (245-16")

hals were like 0 all the way around cause i wasnt hooking. i found out that i had to back into the water box and not burnout in it either.

basically left off idle and eased into it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

last weekend i could only muster a 1.63 with more weight (more gas and subframes). then my torque strap start hitting and causing false knock on the launch <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

i will find out what i can do next weekend. i will bring my 315 nittos with too to compare them to the et streets.

btw, that was a v6 firebird next to me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

 

DriveATransam--Thanks for the info. My hats off to you for a 1.55 on Nitto's. I also have a vig 3200 with H/C job and a launch my car 1500 to 1800 RPM's. I need to vary my launches more (lowered) from the starting line. I am currently running ET slicks and maybe a lower launch will help. If I set all my Hals on a zero setting then my car would twist and turn for about 30 feet or so--I guess it is related to the 391 H.P. I am going to experiment more on the rear settings hoping for a better 60' time. I had to set my air pressure on DR at 16 and PR at 15 for best results. I am also going to install a 24 MM rear sway bar to replace original sway bar. BTW, if your front wheels come off the ground 4 to 10 inches, do your hals need to be adjusted upward on front to prevent wasted energy or is that the whole point. Again, thanks for the info.

 

i only have one vid online and its a dang 1.62!!! which sucks for me.. I dont even have my 1.58 and 11.95 on tape <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

the best run i have on tape is a 1.60 and 11.97 pass arghhh... seems the guy wasnt looking when i staged on my best run..

http://www.slowls1.com/harold.wmv

thats only a 12.01 and 1.62 on nittos

 

98TAAuto--Hang in there--I am sure one day soon you will get that 1.55. 60'time. For the mods you have, your car runs real good. Well, i guess i am going to say goodbye and hook them nitto's. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

<img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Camaro]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" /> 1.55 <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />