4L60E overheating again!!
09-14-2006, 09:56 PM
#1
4L60E overheating again!! I have a 2000 SS with a built 4L60E with a TCI 3800 convertor.
I recently replaced my B&M 36,000 GVW cooler with a Perma Cool cooler with a 1250 CFM fan.
The problem arises after about 15 minutes of driving, the trans temp gets to 200, and I shut the car off as it would continue to rise.
I have my main cooling fans on a switch and always have them on. My fan on the new cooler is always on since its wired into the ignition wire.
It seemed like the smaller cooler kept the car at 180 185 on cooler days. The New cooler is alot larger. Today it was about 77 outside and the trans got that hot. I couldnt even touch the trans lines.
I believe I hooked the lines up the same way they came off. Im prety sure that could cause a heat issue.
If you are facing the cooler, The lines are on the left. I connected the top cooler line to the shortest stock trans line, and the bottom cooler line to the longest stock line. Does that sound right??
I recently replaced my B&M 36,000 GVW cooler with a Perma Cool cooler with a 1250 CFM fan.
The problem arises after about 15 minutes of driving, the trans temp gets to 200, and I shut the car off as it would continue to rise.
I have my main cooling fans on a switch and always have them on. My fan on the new cooler is always on since its wired into the ignition wire.
It seemed like the smaller cooler kept the car at 180 185 on cooler days. The New cooler is alot larger. Today it was about 77 outside and the trans got that hot. I couldnt even touch the trans lines.
I believe I hooked the lines up the same way they came off. Im prety sure that could cause a heat issue.
If you are facing the cooler, The lines are on the left. I connected the top cooler line to the shortest stock trans line, and the bottom cooler line to the longest stock line. Does that sound right??
Last edited by blown 346; 09-14-2006 at 11:15 PM.
09-15-2006, 12:05 AM
#4
Are you still running through the radiator ?Have you checked for restrictions bent lines , Also if your using rubber lines to conect to the cooler inspect them that they have not colapsed internally and partially or completely blocked the flow , If its none of this try putting the old cooler back on since there could be some issue with the cooler itself ,
If all this fails to make a difference you could have a converter issue.
PerformaBuilt
If all this fails to make a difference you could have a converter issue.
PerformaBuilt
09-15-2006, 01:06 AM
#5
I used All Braided line and AN fittings for the conections.
The problem just started as soon as the new cooler was put in. I was thinking, and came up with this.
The cooler is alot larger than the last one, I didnt take into consideration the extra fluid it will take, the fluid lost during the install etc. I will wait until morning to check the fluid levels and im sure it is low. I hope thats the problem.
The problem just started as soon as the new cooler was put in. I was thinking, and came up with this.
The cooler is alot larger than the last one, I didnt take into consideration the extra fluid it will take, the fluid lost during the install etc. I will wait until morning to check the fluid levels and im sure it is low. I hope thats the problem.
09-15-2006, 01:17 AM
#6
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Hmmm, how hot do these things normally run with a 24,000? Mine gets up to 200 every now and then, is that bad? But then again, my trans temp guage has seizures when I'm accelerating, and sometimes just randomly.
09-15-2006, 01:21 AM
#7
I know from past experiences that once the trans hits 210 I heard thats when clutches and bands start to burn and glaze.
This is the 3rd built 4L60E I have had trouble with. The first was heat, then the sprag exploded during a burnout on a ET street, and now another heating issue.
I saw a chart somewhere, I believe it was ATD's site, that showed what happens when a trans gets to a certain temp. I know 180 is normal operating temp.
This is the 3rd built 4L60E I have had trouble with. The first was heat, then the sprag exploded during a burnout on a ET street, and now another heating issue.
I saw a chart somewhere, I believe it was ATD's site, that showed what happens when a trans gets to a certain temp. I know 180 is normal operating temp.
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09-15-2006, 01:24 AM
#8
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Ok, my sending unit or something must be f'ed up, because the previous owner said it usually drove right around 210, and it's a newly rebuilt trans with nothing wrong with it.
09-15-2006, 01:40 AM
#9
You know what I found a link that could help us both. I was wrong with those temp ratings.
Look at this link from TCI.http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/tra...expectancy.htm
Look at this link from TCI.http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/tra...expectancy.htm
09-16-2006, 03:39 AM
#11
What method are you using to read the actual trans temperature? I would say use a scan tool to read what the PCM is reading. 200 isn't bad at all, but it could be a little lower.
I didn't have good luck with the Permacool coolers. I currently run the B&M 29000 that has a 9" fan on it with my TH400 trans. While im cruising it stays around 150-165. When I use the trans brake it may get up to 175 for a couple of minutes but goes back down prety quickly.
I didn't have good luck with the Permacool coolers. I currently run the B&M 29000 that has a 9" fan on it with my TH400 trans. While im cruising it stays around 150-165. When I use the trans brake it may get up to 175 for a couple of minutes but goes back down prety quickly.
09-17-2006, 04:04 AM
#12
Im using a trans temp guage to read the temp.
When the trans temp does get up to around 200, you can feel the car start to vibrate bad when under normal acceleration. It feels like the trans from the heat but it still shifts fine. Once the trans cools down, the vibrations stop and the car drives, shifts perfect.
I also pulled the trans pan off to replace the filter etc, and the magnet had about a quarter inch of material stuck to it. The fluid was still red and wasnt burnt, just a **** load of shavings.
Now Im confused as all that material on the magnet and no slipping etc.
When the trans temp does get up to around 200, you can feel the car start to vibrate bad when under normal acceleration. It feels like the trans from the heat but it still shifts fine. Once the trans cools down, the vibrations stop and the car drives, shifts perfect.
I also pulled the trans pan off to replace the filter etc, and the magnet had about a quarter inch of material stuck to it. The fluid was still red and wasnt burnt, just a **** load of shavings.
Now Im confused as all that material on the magnet and no slipping etc.
09-18-2006, 03:10 AM
#15
Im sure there is flow going through it. The cooler info on my cooler is this.
12315 Six Pass w/ Fan Module
Maxi-CoolTM cooler coil with 3/8" NPT(int) tube ends.
Coil size: 1-1/2" x 10-1/2" x 18" Maxi-CoolTM cooler coil with 3/8" NPT(int) tube ends. With 10" electric fan module.
Unit size: 4" x 10-1/2" x 18" Electric Fan: 5-blade, 6.8 amp draw, 25 amp fuse, 1250 CFM.
12315 Six Pass w/ Fan Module
Maxi-CoolTM cooler coil with 3/8" NPT(int) tube ends.
Coil size: 1-1/2" x 10-1/2" x 18" Maxi-CoolTM cooler coil with 3/8" NPT(int) tube ends. With 10" electric fan module.
Unit size: 4" x 10-1/2" x 18" Electric Fan: 5-blade, 6.8 amp draw, 25 amp fuse, 1250 CFM.
